Synthetic Engine Oil

[Reg]

Hopefully you are going to change it again after another 50 hours ?
In which case using synthetic would cost more but yield no benefit, so it would be a total waste of money.

Oh, I do KNOW about the claims, but they are so far out there, i.e. the tractor may outlast your grandchildren by 35 years instead of 34 (-:

 

[amigauser]

Thanks for the info on M1 TDT. How about the info on M1 Delvac 1 to. I know at one point both were the same but I understand that has changed and Delvac 1 is no longer the same formula as TDT.

Thanks.

 

[radioman]

When my first 50 hr was up for oil change, I was also debating the fact if I should gog with rotella or similar. I am a big fan of synthetics oil, I use it in EVERYTHING. 2 stroke, 4 stroke, cars, trucks, Briggs and stratton engines, etc. The ONLY thing I haven't used synthetics is in my kubota. at the 50 hr change, I was researching everything I could find and cant seem to find ALL of the api oil ratings to match with kubota 10w30 oil in synthetic form.

So - I gave up, and now paying premuim for kubota oil and keeping my local dealer happy with my money

 

[bp fick]

When my first 50 hr was up for oil change, I was also debating the fact if I should gog with rotella or similar. I am a big fan of synthetics oil, I use it in EVERYTHING. 2 stroke, 4 stroke, cars, trucks, Briggs and stratton engines, etc. The ONLY thing I haven't used synthetics is in my kubota. at the 50 hr change, I was researching everything I could find and cant seem to find ALL of the api oil ratings to match with kubota 10w30 oil in synthetic form.

So - I gave up, and now paying premuim for kubota oil and keeping my local dealer happy with my money

Since Ashland/Valvoline is contracted by Kubota to make their sudt in the US, it might follow that Kubota also uses them for oil to re-brand? I don't know and not sure if anyone does for sure. I'm sure Kubota oil is fine, but doubt seriously that it's anything special. Just plain old dino.

 

[jerkyboy]

Holy smokes!!!! Thanks for all he input, I'm thinking I'll use the rest of my Rotella that's left over from my oil change in my truck. Is it two or three quarts for an oil change (BX1500) when the filter's changed too?

 

[bp fick]

Put in the 2 quarts and then begin to put in smaller amounts. Check and re-check. Eventually, it will mark correctly on the dipstick.

Warm the engine up, fully. Allow to sit for half hour and re-check, top off.

 

[grandv8]

yes ashland is under contract with kubota on oil, ill get delvac 1 up sometime today any others ? eh ill dig some others up

 

[Wacky]

yes ashland is under contract with kubota on oil, ill get delvac 1 up sometime today any others ? eh ill dig some others up

1 What would be the best type gear oil for the KK rotary cutters and MFs MMM?
2 Also do you recommend Synthetic over non in after a certain amount of hrs?
3 What is a good hydro oil for HST and front axle in my 2610, manual states MF permatran III? Is that synthetic?

4 Manual states ...10W30 below 0 and above 78, I thought diesels use 15W40??
I am new at this, bear with me.

 

[bp fick]

In the gear drive of my finishing mower, I ran 75w-90 semi synthetic. I am sure there are easily available full synthetics for gear boxes, but the semi is readily available in my area and I use it in a number of applications, like my boat motor's bottom end, my front 4x4 axle on my Kubota, etc.

Seems like the manuals from Japan like that 10w-30 and you can find it readily at Wal-Mart as Rotella T5, semi synthetic.
Guys in the south like dino 15w-40 while others like the Rotella T6, full synthetic 5w-40 for their preference.

All I can tell you is that if you ask 100 guys, you'll get a 100 choices. That's what makes the world go round. Frankly, it wouldn't stop spinning if you used ANY of those three choices. There's fellas who insist on returning to their dealerships and buying their oil there. It's oil. It lubricates. You change it properly every 100 hours and your tractor will likely outlive you, so take your choice and pay your money.

 

[TripleR]

In the gear drive of my finishing mower, I ran 75w-90 semi synthetic. I am sure there are easily available full synthetics for gear boxes, but the semi is readily available in my area and I use it in a number of applications, like my boat motor's bottom end, my front 4x4 axle on my Kubota, etc.

Seems like the manuals from Japan like that 10w-30 and you can find it readily at Wal-Mart as Rotella T5, semi synthetic.
Guys in the south like dino 15w-40 while others like the Rotella T6, full synthetic 5w-40 for their preference.

All I can tell you is that if you ask 100 guys, you'll get a 100 choices. That's what makes the world go round. Frankly, it wouldn't stop spinning if you used ANY of those three choices. There's fellas who insist on returning to their dealerships and buying their oil there. It's oil. It lubricates. You change it properly every 100 hours and your tractor will likely outlive you, so take your choice and pay your money.

Agree completely, we have tried just about everything there is over the years and now use Case, NH, Kubota, Rotella, ARCO or whatever. We have two tractors over fifty years old that have never had any engine or transmission problems, one forty years old and on up to a 2008. I will probably want a new tractor before I ever actually need one.

Both of my brothers are recovering mechanics and neither use synthetics. I am not saying a person shouldn't, we just don't.

 

[grandv8]

ALUMINUM: ........1...0...0...0...
CHROMIUM: .......0...0...0...0...
IRON: 1..............2...1...1...0...
COPPER:........... 0...0...0...0...
LEAD: ...............0...0...0...0...
TIN: ................0...0...0...0...
MOLY: ..............0...3...0...69...
NICKEL:........... 0...0...0...0...
MANGANESE: .....0...0...0...0...
SILVER: ...........0...0...0...0...
TITANIUM: ........0...0...0...0...
POTASSIUM: .....0...0...0...3...
BORON: ...........154...321...0...371...
SILICON: ..........6...5...4...5...
SODIUM: ..........1...1...0...1...
CALCIUM: ......2107...2909...4038...1121...
MAGNESIUM: ........421...258...7...320...
PHOSPHOROUS: 1090...1138...1252...893...
ZINC: ..............1216...1388...1346...1097...
BARIUM: ............0...

SUS VISC. @210F: 78.6...80.7...n/a...80.7...
Cst Visc. @100C: 15.02...n/a...11.55...15.7...
Flashpoint: 425...420...425...nla...425
Fuel %: 陂*
Antifreeze %: 陂*
Water %:0.0
Insolubles %:0.0
TBN:............ 8.9...9.6...12.1...14...9...
TAN:
ISO Code:

1st column delvac 1 5w-40, second column motorcraft 15w-40, third column is amsoil hdd 5w-30, fourth column is chevron delo 400 15w-40.
as you can see here the amsoil hdd (heavy duty diesel) is a winner and at a low weight 5w-30 its a real performer, the bargain here is the motorcraft 15w-40 which is a great deal of performance for such a cheap purchase price.
As for the thought of my tractor has ran for yadda years with no problem, your correct these are overbuilt low horsepower beast made to run forever. But is adequate good enough, if so great id put what ever was on sale in and never look back....... But if just if your eyes have been opened that there are differences in oil additive packages as well as quality, then why not pick the best oil you can afford be it the 12 dollar a gallon motorcraft or 36 a gallon amsoil, whatever price your comfortable with. Why risk lubrication as one of the things that could bring your tractor to its knees.......I also deal with below zero temps in the winter as a norm, so the cold weather pumbability of synthetic is a no brainer...... In jan feb we average -10 to -15 below with cold snaps to -30 to -35

 

[TripleR]

ALUMINUM: ........1...0...0...0...
CHROMIUM: .......0...0...0...0...
IRON: 1..............2...1...1...0...
COPPER:........... 0...0...0...0...
LEAD: ...............0...0...0...0...
TIN: ................0...0...0...0...
MOLY: ..............0...3...0...69...
NICKEL:........... 0...0...0...0...
MANGANESE: .....0...0...0...0...
SILVER: ...........0...0...0...0...
TITANIUM: ........0...0...0...0...
POTASSIUM: .....0...0...0...3...
BORON: ...........154...321...0...371...
SILICON: ..........6...5...4...5...
SODIUM: ..........1...1...0...1...
CALCIUM: ......2107...2909...4038...1121...
MAGNESIUM: ........421...258...7...320...
PHOSPHOROUS: 1090...1138...1252...893...
ZINC: ..............1216...1388...1346...1097...
BARIUM: ............0...

SUS VISC. @210F: 78.6...80.7...n/a...80.7...
Cst Visc. @100C: 15.02...n/a...11.55...15.7...
Flashpoint: 425...420...425...nla...425
Fuel %: 陂*
Antifreeze %: 陂*
Water %:0.0
Insolubles %:0.0
TBN:............ 8.9...9.6...12.1...14...9...
TAN:
ISO Code:

1st column delvac 1 5w-40, second column motorcraft 15w-40, third column is amsoil hdd 5w-30, fourth column is chevron delo 400 15w-40.
as you can see here the amsoil hdd (heavy duty diesel) is a winner and at a low weight 5w-30 its a real performer, the bargain here is the motorcraft 15w-40 which is a great deal of performance for such a cheap purchase price.
As for the thought of my tractor has ran for yadda years with no problem, your correct these are overbuilt low horsepower beast made to run forever. But is adequate good enough, if so great id put what ever was on sale in and never look back....... But if just if your eyes have been opened that there are differences in oil additive packages as well as quality, then why not pick the best oil you can afford be it the 12 dollar a gallon motorcraft or 36 a gallon amsoil, whatever price your comfortable with. Why risk lubrication as one of the things that could bring your tractor to its knees.......I also deal with below zero temps in the winter as a norm, so the cold weather pumbability of synthetic is a no brainer...... In jan feb we average -10 to -15 below with cold snaps to -30 to -35

Because good enough is good enough and I personally get tired of the condescending tone of the synthetic cures cancer crowd to everyone one who does not see it "their way." I will not get involved in such a discussion again; no point.

 

[Deano]

All I can tell you is that if you ask 100 guys, you'll get a 100 choices. That's what makes the world go round. Frankly, it wouldn't stop spinning if you used ANY of those three choices. There's fellas who insist on returning to their dealerships and buying their oil there. It's oil. It lubricates. You change it properly every 100 hours and your tractor will likely outlive you, so take your choice and pay your money.

On the money BP!!:thumbsup:

Deano

 

[SPYDERLK]

Because good enough is good enough and I personally get tired of the condescending tone of the synthetic cures cancer crowd to everyone one who does not see it "their way." I will not get involved in such a discussion again; no point.

Those single digit low numbers sure help starting in the winter up here. The low to hi number range made possible by the syns give single oil yr round convenience.
larry

 

[grandv8]

Because good enough is good enough and I personally get tired of the condescending tone of the synthetic cures cancer crowd to everyone one who does not see it "their way." I will not get involved in such a discussion again; no point.

reread my statement, it wasn't pointing that you had to run synthetic, it was that once you further start to understand oil why not pick the most suitable oil in any price range. There are better suited oils in any price range. The motorcraft stuff I cited is conventional and probably the best in its price range, my point wasn't to be condescending but rather why not put the best oil in for your given price range. I apologize if I have offended in any way. I may not be a tractor expert but Lubrication is where I have a formidable knowledge and I am willing to impart with it to all who desire that information.

 

[bp fick]

reread my statement, it wasn't pointing that you had to run synthetic, it was that once you further start to understand oil why not pick the most suitable oil in any price range. There are better suited oils in any price range. The motorcraft stuff I cited is conventional and probably the best in its price range, my point wasn't to be condescending but rather why not put the best oil in for your given price range. I apologize if I have offended in any way. I may not be a tractor expert but Lubrication is where I have a formidable knowledge and I am willing to impart with it to all who desire that information.

grandv8, don't worry about it too much. You've been helpful and pretty cheerful and practical. It's just that on most any thread concerning oil, some rather zealous synthetic multi-level marketing zombies usually show up with the attitude that makes most of us here do more than roll our eyes. Their near religious zeal turns a lot of folks off. Again, no problems.

 

[grandv8]

lol i hear ya, no I do not sell oil, nor do I run exclusively synthetic. I run what I feel is best in each particular area. Oil is better than its ever been including conventional.

 

[sw03]

grandv8, don't worry about it too much. You've been helpful and pretty cheerful and practical. It's just that on most any thread concerning oil, some rather zealous synthetic multi-level marketing zombies usually show up with the attitude that makes most of us here do more than roll our eyes. Their near religious zeal turns a lot of folks off. Again, no problems.

True but it depends on what the end user wants..I high TBN for acid reduction, high ZZDP for again protection, low ash, high NOVAC, nice pour....There is more to base a prodcut selection on then price my friend.


And you are nailing "multi-level marketing " for some odd reason...I guess you are not in sales or marketing since 90% of most products are just this...
I will take Amsoil, your "zealous multi-level marketing" since it fill oll areas of concern; aka since I do not put a price tag on these. Good stuff is not cheap.