Taking the Welder Plunge

Pete Milley · Sep 3, 2007

Kratos:
Upon viewing your photos of the bushhog you are attempting to repair, I believe your method will fail for two reasons. The damaged sheetmetal has been stressed to breaking and the vibration inherent with this implement is relentless. As a welder/fabricator for many years, may I suggest an alternative method? Be sure under side of mower is clean of debris. First grind off all excess weld. Clamp the pieces together as close to original as possible. Cut some 1 1/2" angle iron to length. Place angle iron over joint and weld both edges of the angle iron along the length. Be sure both surfaces are free of paint and rust. This will add to the structural integrity and if done right will produce a finished look. Dried grass, wood and other debris will ignite instantly, so remember to ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher immediately available. If using water be extremely cautious of electricity (i.e. the welder). I hope this helps.

Kratos · Sep 3, 2007

Thanks for the advice. I have not had to use it since my attempt at repair, but may need to next week. I will see how it holds and if not, the angle iron idea is a great suggestion.

tater digger · Sep 3, 2007

Pete Milley said:
Kratos:
Upon viewing your photos of the bushhog you are attempting to repair, I believe your method will fail for two reasons. The damaged sheetmetal has been stressed to breaking and the vibration inherent with this implement is relentless. As a welder/fabricator for many years, may I suggest an alternative method? Be sure under side of mower is clean of debris. First grind off all excess weld. Clamp the pieces together as close to original as possible. Cut some 1 1/2" angle iron to length. Place angle iron over joint and weld both edges of the angle iron along the length. Be sure both surfaces are free of paint and rust. This will add to the structural integrity and if done right will produce a finished look. Dried grass, wood and other debris will ignite instantly, so remember to ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher immediately available. If using water be extremely cautious of electricity (i.e. the welder). I hope this helps.

Angle iron could also be used in a more conservative manner by using a short piece of 1 1/2 x 1/4" angle vertically to tie in the sections of frame that was separated, weld only the heavy steel with 1/8" 6013 rod, starting with heavy "tacks" a few inches apart then weld between the tacks, pushing the rod into the weld so you feel the metal going in there the moving on. then get some 3/32 rods and turn down to 60 or 70 amps to weld that sheet.
With the sheet , you want to clamp it in the middle of the seam and tack on either side of the clamp by working a spot on the heavy plate, 1/8" away from where the sheet touches then a quick pass from the sheet to the first spot should connect the puddles. Tack every four inches using a hammer in between tacks to bring the metal together then in between every 2" , tack-hammer- tack- hammer 1" spaces tack- hammer etc. 1/2" etc. then you are ready to run a bead across the whole thing but first let it cool. This method works when you are trying to weld thick to thin because you never let the heat get out of hand. The heat you need to penetrate 1/4" plate will fry sheet, once you have added a little metal to the sheet in spots it will handle a continuous weld . Grinding the weld when you are done will show you how much of it is metal and how much is flux glass. Remember, clean metal welds

, burning paint is highly toxic

. Good luck