Talk Me In/Out of the Stihl MS261

[5030]

Not really because it's a 2 stoke engine, not a 4 stroke. Not here to debate anything except to say the 590 Timber Bear is one helluva chainsaw at a much better price than the Stihl. Not that I don't like Stihl's, just don't like the new over priced ones. I still use my 45 year old 028 AV and I own but don't use not only an 090G but an 075 as well.

The Timber Bear is made in Japan by Echo's parent company and imported to your friendly Echo dealer. In fact, my Kubota dealer has just taken on Echo.

 

[oldballs]

Just a 3 acre homeowner myself....but my Farm Boss MS 290 is still serving me.....(although it is somtimes stubborn to start )...Later I treated myself to a MS 261 using a 20 inch bar.............and ....am real happy with both. The 261 is easier to start. I leave a 16" bar on the Farm Boss.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[Rockbadchild]

Not really because it's a 2 stoke engine, not a 4 stroke. Not here to debate anything except to say the 590 Timber Bear is one helluva chainsaw at a much better price than the Stihl. Not that I don't like Stihl's, just don't like the new over priced ones. I still use my 45 year old 028 AV and I own but don't use not only an 090G but an 075 as well.

The Timber Bear is made in Japan by Echo's parent company and imported to your friendly Echo dealer. In fact, my Kubota dealer has just taken on Echo.

I just wanted to know your reasoning. I am assuming this was for me ?
If so it makes no sense, HP is HP and torque is torque and time is time on 4 stroke and 2 stroke no difference on dyno graph ... Y axis is HP on one side and torque on the other then X axis is RPMinutes (time) ... the chain size or bar size on a chainsaw is equivalent of the wheels size on a vehicle, cutting wood would be the equivalent of the load pulled by a vehicle or even wind resistance...

 

[yomax4]

My 2 cents. The 250 or 261 is really not a 20" bar saw. I have an 026 pro with a muff mod that I use a 20" bar on that I use strictly for limbing. Works great for that but falls off on 10+" hardwood. It comes into it's own with a 16" bar for firewood cutting and is a little beast. I also use a 361 with a 20" and it's adequate. If you insist on a 20" bar you really should consider 60cc.

 

[Hay Dude]

I just cut down 75 12”-40” trees with a 261C and a 20” bar with yellow skip chain. I also bucked them and cut them to 16’ and 24’ lengths for the log truck.

It was a great choice of saw. It’s light, but powerful. It’s also pretty affordable, yet still considered a “professional grade” Stihl saw.

I think you’ll be extremely pleased.

 

[xyz123]

Dont do a 271 or 291. Not worth fixing IMO once those things go down. Plastic saws.

261 Gen2 Gen3 might be on Gen4 by now. Nice light like the 026 260 was. But I wouldnt want for bigger hardwoods. Sure they can cut bigger softwoods like spruce and pine. But hardwoods I be wanting more cc of a saw. $700

I would want the 400 66.7cc over the 362 59cc that it replaced for same weight. $1000

Best bang for the bucks with carbs you can tune yourself.

Echo 590 59cc entry level to their pro saw builds. Great saw with long stroke for bigger wood. $439

Echo 620 is the cadillac of the 59cc for echo. Has better stock porting then 590. rim drive, metal handle etc. $639

Down fall of the 59cc echos is the extra weight over stihls in same size. But you save 400 bucks or more too. 1lb more PHO dry as done by oem.

 

[WinterDeere]

I've owned a small fleet of Stihls, from the little 019T top handle up to their largest 084 AV, at 122 cm3 displacement. I presently own a 63cc 036 PRO (older variant of MS362) and an 85cc 064 AV (small-bore 066 frame, replaced by MS660), among some other brands.

The MS291 is not going to satisfactorily pull a 20" bar with full comp chain and the nose buried in hardwood. Sorry, it's just not. Been there, done that.

If you keep the nose out of the wood, cutting stuff smaller than Ø20", or only cut softwood, or run skip chain, then you can get by with it. But an 18" bar is a much better fit for that 55cc saw, for anyone running full-comp chain in hardwoods. It's a great saw, but it's only 55cc!

I don't even run a full 20" exposed on my 63cc 036 PRO, since I'm cutting a lot of large diameter oak, and it's a little under-powered as soon as you get the nose buried. I found that saw works pretty well with 19" of exposed bar, which I achieve with large felling dogs on a 20" bar. Yes, it kind of looks silly having "big saw" dogs on a little 63cc saw, but it hits the sweet spot for that saw's power curve.

 

[dodge man]

I have a MS 250 and bought a MS261. You won’t regret it, they seem like a lot of power for the weight. I have a 18” bar on mine but I think it‘d pull a 20” bar fine.

 

[WinterDeere]

It also matters what chain you're running, and even how you sharpen it. I run full-chisel RS chain (or other brand equivalents), and take the depth gauges down .005" below factory spec. This cuts faster and throws bigger chips, but requires more horsepower per inch of bar, than those running semi-chisel chain at factory spec... or even worse, those who never adjust their depth gauges when sharpening!

https://static.stihl.com/security_data_sheet/downloads/Sharpening-STIHL-Saw-Chains.pdf

 

[kozal01]

FWIW a 20" bar lives on my 261. Mainly for limbing as it saves my back a bit but it has no issues buried in an oak or maple tree or log. Would a 60 or 70 cc saw be faster? Sure but at the cost of weight and $$. For kind of a do it all around the property saw the 261 is great. Keep the chain sharp and it will cut fine.