Disc Harrow TANDEM LIFT DISC HAROW, Monroe Tufline 18/20", TH971820B, REVIEW

[jeff9366]

All the pans on my Tufline are the same diameter, 20". What varies is the spacing between pans; 9" spacing between pans on the front gang for penetration, 7-1/2" spacing on the rear gang for smoothing.

In theory, you need pans to all be of one diameter so you can usefully vary gang pressure between front gang and rear gang by adjusting the Top Link of the Three Point Hitch.

Being new to disc harrows……..

Read LINK #2 in Post #1 for Disc Harrow basics.

 

[HarryN]

Thanks ...... very nice write up!

 

[vtsnowedin]

Being new to disc harrows. I assume the 18" disc's go on the front and the 20" disc's go on the back, correct?
And, why 2 different sizes? Thanks.....

You may have figured this out already but an 18- 20 is a harrow with 18 blades that are all 20 inch diameter. From there you can vary spacing front to rear and blade type ,notched or smooth. all one or the other or usually notched front and smooth back. But if your paying for it they will build it in any combination they have parts for.

 

[HarryN]

Jeff9366 you are very knowledgeable on disc harrows. Can you tell me where to position these scrappers? Outer edge, inner edge of disc?
I finished rebuilding this old Tufline model TM. It had 6 scrappers on the back gangs, 3 on each side. I can get more. Are they worth getting.
At the moment it is to wet to disc. That's why it was my winter project.
Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

Sorry, HARRYN, I can't help you. We NEVER have mud where I live, with the Florida aquifer beneath us and the Suwannee River nearby. Soil here drains instantly. I have no direct experience with disc scrapers.

Why not contact Monroe Tufline directly? I expect Tufline can answer your question and/or send you a parts diagram for your disc.

website: Well Built, Performance Driven - Monroe Tufline

phone: (662) 328-8347

Good Luck!

 

[vtsnowedin]

Jeff9366 you are very knowledgeable on disc harrows. Can you tell me where to position these scrappers? Outer edge, inner edge of disc?
I finished rebuilding this old Tufline model TM. It had 6 scrappers on the back gangs, 3 on each side. I can get more. Are they worth getting.
At the moment it is to wet to disc. That's why it was my winter project.
Thanks

Good looking repair job. Have much trouble getting the end nuts off the axles?

 

[HarryN]

"Good looking repair job. Have much trouble getting the end nuts off the axles?"
Good question, vtsnowedin...
I thought getting those really rusted nuts off the axle was going to be the hard part. But here's what made it easy for my situation.
Fortunately, this had "Square axles" so slippage when turning was not going to be a problem. I used two pipe wrenches. One was put on the axle spacer spool and wedged against the frame to keep that axle from turning. Then the other was put on the nut and using a 6 foot cheater pipe over the handle of the pipe wrench for leverage. (these were heavy duty pipe wrenches by the way) The rust on the axle thread broke free and the nut came right off. Had that not worked, heat was going to be next. When putting every thing back together I used "never seize" on the threads, so future disassemble/repairs will hopefully go better.

 

[vtsnowedin]

"Good looking repair job. Have much trouble getting the end nuts off the axles?"
Good question, vtsnowedin...
I thought getting those really rusted nuts off the axle was going to be the hard part. But here's what made it easy for my situation.
Fortunately, this had "Square axles" so slippage when turning was not going to be a problem. I used two pipe wrenches. One was put on the axle spacer spool and wedged against the frame to keep that axle from turning. Then the other was put on the nut and using a 6 foot cheater pipe over the handle of the pipe wrench for leverage. (these were heavy duty pipe wrenches by the way) The rust on the axle thread broke free and the nut came right off. Had that not worked, heat was going to be next. When putting every thing back together I used "never seize" on the threads, so future disassemble/repairs will hopefully go better.

A six foot cheetah pipe on a wrench that can take it is a wonderful thing. I'd of given it a 24 hour soak in PB blaster or equal then heated the nut up with my propane torch as hot as I could get it just so it knew I was talking to it.

 

[James Henry 01]

Hi Jeff, Guy's...
I'm new to small farm type food plots but so far enjoy all of it.
Raised in southern Mississippi I work some large gardens and
had some small experience with growing. I have read through
your post and found it all very enjoyable an informative.
I am now looking into the very topics that you are discussing
and have been reading from site to site and also many manufactures
wonderful claims about their outstanding products and closing
pitches. But I fine that many come up short with an in depth look or
perspective from the consumers with their hands on experience.
Which I have found in you guys and our form. You all having that working knowledge that comes from trail and error and unfortunately sweat, anger, expense and some at times bloody knuckles... Jeff, and any of you that would like to give advice! I have a Kubota B2710 and 6 acres but would like to place 4 of it in food plots, I have need of a disc that would be a solid work horse without breaking the bank. I have purchased a sprayer and sprayed the first acre to kill the grass and weeds with my son's help. I was doing some charity work for a church a few years back and fell 22 ft. and destroyed my back, and had to replace the left wrist and left hip, so this is kind of a therapy so to speak, so things move a little slow at times. But for a country guy getting out still and seeing turkey, deer and my sons its great!!! B2710, 27hp, rear lift 1655 lbs, rear pto 20hp and the ground in mid Indiana has been used as hay fields and is well drained yet has some moister but not low wet spots. What type of disc would you suggest, I have studied what you have purchased, but I want to be as frugal or wise as I can with my purchase. I thought that I might burn the dead stuff off then disc to break up several inches of top soil, run a chain drag over it, spread the clover then try to pack it down. Now, I am open to the wisdom of those brave men that have gone on before me and already conquered these hazardous frontiers. You all have learn the needs to survive and the tools needed to brings these ornery, rebellious natures under control and succeed. Guy's, I do not have a cultipacker, ripper, plow or any of those type implements. I have been diligently been searching for weeks in a 150 mile area on craig's list but mostly what i see, seems over priced or worn out junk. Then there again you all are the experienced ones, I am not.....
Thank you in advance for your help....

james

p.s.
I hope that you got a kick out of some of my humor,
it was not intended to offend.....

 

[jeff9366]

My first new Kubota was a B3300SU, a tad heavier than your B2710.

I recommend a PTO powered Roto-Tiller for a B2710 size tractor, in preference to a Disc Harrow with 16" or 18" diameter pans, which are not heavy enough for Primary Tillage, only 32 to 37 pounds weight bearing on each pan.

Disc Harrows and PTO powered Roto-Tillers are equivalent soil mixing and leveling implements. They just mix and level in different ways.

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