TC 40 D Fuse block

   / TC 40 D Fuse block #11  
The fuse was a 40 amp original. I think you're right about finding the problem. Not sure exactly where to start. I followed the battery cable to the fusebox, and saw nothing out of the ordinary, except for the melted fusebox. My next step will have to be to open up the compartment, and try to look there. thanks.
 
   / TC 40 D Fuse block #12  
I believe you've already found your problem. The fuse block most likely melted from heat generated by poor connections between the wires and the brass terminals within the block. If you had an overload situation the fuses should blow first. Prime culprits are heavy load circuits like blower motors and multiple work light systems that are left on for long periods of time. You don't need a $500 harness, just a new fuse block(available at any parts house or online), a few sections of wire and some crimp on butt connectors. If you don't feel comfortable tackling the project, you can always pay someone to do it, and it still won't reach the cost of a new harness and the labor to install it.
 
   / TC 40 D Fuse block #13  
I believe you've already found your problem. The fuse block most likely melted from heat generated by poor connections between the wires and the brass terminals within the block. If you had an overload situation the fuses should blow first. Prime culprits are heavy load circuits like blower motors and multiple work light systems that are left on for long periods of time. You don't need a $500 harness, just a new fuse block(available at any parts house or online), a few sections of wire and some crimp on butt connectors. If you don't feel comfortable tackling the project, you can always pay someone to do it, and it still won't reach the cost of a new harness and the labor to install it.

I am surprised that the fuse did not blow. Still seems to be intact. No lights were on, or anything else that I know of. I was bush hogging prior to it going out. The plastic box did not actually melt, but I know it got hot because it shattered when I moved a few wires. Will dig deeper. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
   / TC 40 D Fuse block #14  
Wow! This seems to be a changing target as more info evolves. It's tough for us to visualize what your problem is and to go from "melted" to "cracked and broke when disturbed" is a big step. If you didn't find any blown fuses, there's a good chance that your problem is the neutral sensing switch on the left side of the transmission housing below the footrest. It also could be the PTO switch, but that would light the light on the dash and be more obvious. If the engine won't turn over it's normally one of those switches. If the engine turns over but won't start, 99% of the time it's the seat switch.

Here's the problem with us trying to help. From your first post, I got the impression that your tractor had zero power and would not start. When you checked, you found a melted fuse block. Now, I see that the tractor would not start and your fuse holder cracked/broke while you were moving wires around. I'm guessing that you had power to some circuits, but the tractor wouldn't start. That's just a guess because the conditions seem to change as you post more info and we get a better picture of what happened. We can only give advice based on how completely you describe the situation for us.

As Harry in Ky said, a fuse block is fairly cheap and can be installed easily with the right tools and procedures. If you don't mark wires and do it right, it'll turn into a spiderweb nightmare. The way the fuse block works is some fuses are hot all the time and some have power only when the key is turned to RUN or START. Think of it as a hot bus bar and a key bus bar. Several fuses will be 'bussed' together on the hot sides with the circuit sides being separated. If you have an operator's manual, you have schematics in the back that show fuses and wiring. These schematics are your "best friend."
 
   / TC 40 D Fuse block #15  
I didn't say replacing the fuse block would be simple, only that it's less expensive than a harness. You probably need to remove all or most of of the cowling to access the wiring. You will need to cut the harness shielding back far enough to separate the wires and provide room to identify colors. Cut the wires back far enough to escape the burnt and corroded ends of the wires. You need to reach good, clean copper to make your connections. Once the connections, and fused circuits are back in good shape, I believe the other problems will be taken care of. I agree, a diagram will be helpful, but not a necessity. A volt/ohm meter and a testlight will be needed, as well as the fuse block identification. Most of the circuits will still be intact enough to identify which wire matches which fuse, so if you do one wire at a time you can do it without getting lost.
 
   / TC 40 D Fuse block #16  
I appreciate everyone's help in diagnosing the problem, with my inadequate descriptions. Let me try again. There is nothing wrong with the fuse block in the instrument panel. I took it out, and checked every fuse. All were o.k. There is a single wire coming from the battery cable to one 40 amp fuse box (above the starter), which appeared to get very hot and crack into pieces when I moved it. The 40 amp fuse was not blown. The blades that the fuse plugs into are intact. There is no box left to plug the fuse into, but I did plug the fuse into both blades of the wires, and the glow plug light comes on, but the tractor did not start. The ignition switch seems to make a click when I turn the switch on, but the engine doesn't turn, and the glow plug light goes out. Could that be part of the problem? I will look at the switches you suggested.
 
   / TC 40 D Fuse block #17  
Oh my! We really were on the wrong track. You can buy a fuse holder for a 40 amp blade type fuse or even buy a 40 amp fusible link and put it inline instead of the fuse block. Either of those solutions will work fine. I'm thinking that your problem with the 40A fuse holder could be a glow plug pulling too much current. The glow plugs are the only load that approaches enough load to be near the 40A rating. Since it didn't blow, I have to think it's just bad contact that caused the wire/holder to heat up.

BTW: The starting circuits on these tractors is pretty poor. The problem is that the relays drop some voltage and the starter solenoid does not get enough power to fully pull in. It's one of those solenoids that pulls high current to engage and then switches to a low current draw to hold itself engaged. If it never gets fully engaged, it continues to draw high current and normally blows fuse #2 in the fuses below the instrument panel. You can spot this problem easily because the PTO light will illuminate even with the PTO lever in OFF. However, I don't think that is your problem because you say the starter 'clicks' when you turn the key. If you take a short piece of wire, you can go from the large battery cable to the small terminal on the starter solenoid. That's an emergency hotwire to get the tractor started. As soon as you touch the wire to both leads, the starter should crank over. If it does, then retry the key. Sometimes the solenoid binds up a bit. My starter is starting to do this about every other start cycle and I have to give it several tries before it catches and fully engages the solenoid. I've replaced fuse #2 with a self-resetting circuit breaker, so I don't have blown fuses anymore.

I'd say to check the neutral switch and PTO lever switch to make sure the wires are intact and then try the starter hotwire to see if that will get you started. I think you are close to finding all your problems and getting back to normal after a little repair.:)
 
   / TC 40 D Fuse block #18  
The fuse holder is available, but not so easy to find. I went to O'Reilly's, Autozone, an electric parts store and no one had the 40 amp fuse holder, then I went back to the tractor dealer, and he suggested I go to an auto electronics shop (Ricky Smith's), and they could fix me up with a fuse holder. Will do that soon.
In the meantime, I removed the console under the steering wheel, cleaned all the dust and dirt from under there, checked all the wires I could, and adjusted the switches under the seat and on the PTO lever. There are a lot of relays/fuses/boxes in that mess of wires! Will try the starter hotwire after I get a fuse installed. Thanks.

P.M. -I found the fuse box at Carquest! It's a perfect match, complete with the carriage bolt to attach it. MIght be useful to you in the future. About 18 bucks. Will connect with butt connectors to the existing wires, and then I can do more troubleshooting, and try to solenoid jump.
 
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   / TC 40 D Fuse block #19  
It sounds like you really went on a quest to find your fuse holder. NAPA also probably carries them, but sometimes they are bit more expensive.

If you leave your key in OFF, the tractor will not start when you use the hotwire. Just the starter will engage. If that works, then try a normal start. Sometimes giving the starter a kickstart will make it start working as it should with the normal circuits. If you want the tractor to start when you hotwire it, put the key to run and and set the parking brake with the range shift lever in Neutral. That way none of the operator safety features will keep the engine from starting. It should fire right off, especially if the glowplugs cycle when you turn the key to RUN. I also recommend that you replace fuse #2 in your normal fuse block under the dash with one of these resetting circuit breakers. Using 10 amps to replace that 8 amp fuse is just fine. The circuit breakers are the same size as your fuses and fit into the slot perfectly.
 
   / TC 40 D Fuse block #20  
It sounds like you really went on a quest to find your fuse holder. NAPA also probably carries them, but sometimes they are bit more expensive.

If you leave your key in OFF, the tractor will not start when you use the hotwire. Just the starter will engage. If that works, then try a normal start. Sometimes giving the starter a kickstart will make it start working as it should with the normal circuits. If you want the tractor to start when you hotwire it, put the key to run and and set the parking brake with the range shift lever in Neutral. That way none of the operator safety features will keep the engine from starting. It should fire right off, especially if the glowplugs cycle when you turn the key to RUN. I also recommend that you replace fuse #2 in your normal fuse block under the dash with one of these resetting circuit breakers. Using 10 amps to replace that 8 amp fuse is just fine. The circuit breakers are the same size as your fuses and fit into the slot perfectly.

I got the new fuse box in, and joined the cables. I didn't have the right tool to crimp the butt splice for a 6 guage cable, and I boogered up the insulation, but I just wrapped it with plenty of tape. I feel sure they make a tool to crimp wire splices that big, but I made do. Put it all back together, and it cranked right up. Thanks for your help. It kept me going when I wanted to quit.
Howard
 

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