With the FEL on , that is a pain. I take my loader off in the spring for mowing and back on in the fall . I replace the filter just before the FEL goes back on. A wide jaw vise-grip works great on that lock ring.It looks like a jar lid remover,only wider ! Got it from Harbor Freight if I remember right. But the best time to replace the fuel filter is when you don't HAVE to.I do mine every fall and just clean the bowl in the spring. dass
TC!8 Engine bogging down
- Thread starter OkeeDon
- Start date
- Views: 8193
Friday, I finally got the tractor fixed. It's been a busy time and I haven't been out there much.
It was the fuel filter as everyone else knew but me - thanks, everyone.
But, what a bear of a job. On a TC18, the filter is located directly behind the subframe that supports the loader. It wouldn't help to remove the loader - the support frame would still be there, complicated by the hydraulic lines that run above and below the frame, the cables that rub the front of the filter, and the wiring look that rubs the back of the filter. There is about 4" of space between the frame and the filter, and no space at all in front or in back of it.
The filter was on so tight I couldn't get it loose. I finally bought a a large-capacity, narrow jaw vice grip from the advice above. It took several minutes, but I was able to just barely get a grip on the nut with the tips of the vice grips, and could move it -- maybe -- 1/4"at a time. Fortunately, once I cracked it loose, I was able to turn it by hand. It was so tight that the bracket bent and one of the hoses came off before the nut moved.
I put the new filter in place, managed to get the thing reassembled, opened the fuel cock, and it leaked! I couldn't get it tight enough. That's when I noticed the O-ring on the ground, underneath. So, all apart again, put the O-ring in place and install it again. I'm up to about 45 minutes for what should be a 45 second job!
Of course, I got air in the system and it wouldn't start. I finally got a little wrench that would fit in the tiny space around the bleeder, bled the air, and it started right up. I worked it pretty hard, pulling the box blade though some mud, with the wheels digging into the soup, to the point that it almost stalled, but didn't bog down first.
I realize that things are tight on a little tractor, but that filter is mounted on a sheet metal bracket and could have been positioned somewhere a lot more accessible. I'd like to offer the engineer a drink - laced with hemlock.
The tools I used went into the tool bag on the tractor and will stay there. It won't be as bad, next time. If the O-ring is in place /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif the filter doesn't have to be as tight as the factory made it.
It was the fuel filter as everyone else knew but me - thanks, everyone.
But, what a bear of a job. On a TC18, the filter is located directly behind the subframe that supports the loader. It wouldn't help to remove the loader - the support frame would still be there, complicated by the hydraulic lines that run above and below the frame, the cables that rub the front of the filter, and the wiring look that rubs the back of the filter. There is about 4" of space between the frame and the filter, and no space at all in front or in back of it.
The filter was on so tight I couldn't get it loose. I finally bought a a large-capacity, narrow jaw vice grip from the advice above. It took several minutes, but I was able to just barely get a grip on the nut with the tips of the vice grips, and could move it -- maybe -- 1/4"at a time. Fortunately, once I cracked it loose, I was able to turn it by hand. It was so tight that the bracket bent and one of the hoses came off before the nut moved.
I put the new filter in place, managed to get the thing reassembled, opened the fuel cock, and it leaked! I couldn't get it tight enough. That's when I noticed the O-ring on the ground, underneath. So, all apart again, put the O-ring in place and install it again. I'm up to about 45 minutes for what should be a 45 second job!
Of course, I got air in the system and it wouldn't start. I finally got a little wrench that would fit in the tiny space around the bleeder, bled the air, and it started right up. I worked it pretty hard, pulling the box blade though some mud, with the wheels digging into the soup, to the point that it almost stalled, but didn't bog down first.
I realize that things are tight on a little tractor, but that filter is mounted on a sheet metal bracket and could have been positioned somewhere a lot more accessible. I'd like to offer the engineer a drink - laced with hemlock.
The tools I used went into the tool bag on the tractor and will stay there. It won't be as bad, next time. If the O-ring is in place /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif the filter doesn't have to be as tight as the factory made it.
jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 20,387
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
Don, I'm glad you got your filter changed and your tractor back working like it should. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif It seems funny that NH engineering could design such well-made products and then overlook something so simple as access to filters. I guess for every 100 good engineers, there is one "bad" one. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif You just found the part that the bad one designed. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Maybe you could talk to your dealer's service manager to find out what their routine is for changing this part. Surely they have a special tool or procedure that takes less than 45 minutes to do.
Actually, after my first attempt at it (gave up in frustration), I did talk to the service manager. In fact, I asked him to send out the service truck and do it, but he had a guy on vacation and a couple guys out sick, so it would have been this coming week before he could get out there (45 miles away).
I asked him for his secret, and he said, "channel locks and a lot of patience." The real problem was that it was overtightened at the factory, plus I didn't have the right tools, plus having to do it twice due to my stupidity with the O-ring. All my channel locks are too fat.
I just used hand pressure to tighten it (after I got the O-ring back in), like putting on an oil filter, and it doesn't leak. It will be a lot easier next time. I should be able to do it in 10 minutes, maybe less if it isn't parked near a mound of fire ants. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
I asked him for his secret, and he said, "channel locks and a lot of patience." The real problem was that it was overtightened at the factory, plus I didn't have the right tools, plus having to do it twice due to my stupidity with the O-ring. All my channel locks are too fat.
I just used hand pressure to tighten it (after I got the O-ring back in), like putting on an oil filter, and it doesn't leak. It will be a lot easier next time. I should be able to do it in 10 minutes, maybe less if it isn't parked near a mound of fire ants. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
jcollins
Gold Member
If replacing the fuel filter does not work you may have a fuel selanoid problem. Read below.
Series TC SERIES TRACTOR CLASS 1
Group Engine - 10
Summary Description ENGINE GRADUALLY LOOSES POWER WHEN HOT
Symptoms Engine losses power after 1-1/2 to 2 hours of operation.
Causes Fuel shut off solenoid, part # SBA185206083 (ROW part number 87761620), weakens with heat and gradually restricts fuel supply
Solutions Replace the fuel shutoff solenoid, part # SBA185206083 (ROW part number 87761620).
Series TC SERIES TRACTOR CLASS 1
Group Engine - 10
Summary Description ENGINE GRADUALLY LOOSES POWER WHEN HOT
Symptoms Engine losses power after 1-1/2 to 2 hours of operation.
Causes Fuel shut off solenoid, part # SBA185206083 (ROW part number 87761620), weakens with heat and gradually restricts fuel supply
Solutions Replace the fuel shutoff solenoid, part # SBA185206083 (ROW part number 87761620).
Inspector507
Super Member
you've got it going now dass /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jason, I think the filter was the fix, but thanks for the info about the solenoid - if I need it, it's nice to have the part numbers and stuff.
David, attached is the tool I ended up getting - not quite as ideal for the job as yours, and probably a lot more money because it's an official Vice Grip (about $18 at HD), but it did the job, and I wanted it Right Now! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
David, attached is the tool I ended up getting - not quite as ideal for the job as yours, and probably a lot more money because it's an official Vice Grip (about $18 at HD), but it did the job, and I wanted it Right Now! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Attachments
jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 20,387
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Vice Grip (about $18 at HD), )</font>
If that's a "Vice Grip" tool, now I know why you had to get it at Ho_ _ Depot. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Sorry, Don. Maybe I've been watching too many reruns of Miami Vice , but I believe you made a typo and meant Vise Grip pliers. It's only important if you do an internet search. You might be surprised at some of the search results if you use the other spelling. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
If that's a "Vice Grip" tool, now I know why you had to get it at Ho_ _ Depot. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Sorry, Don. Maybe I've been watching too many reruns of Miami Vice , but I believe you made a typo and meant Vise Grip pliers. It's only important if you do an internet search. You might be surprised at some of the search results if you use the other spelling. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
