TC Series Rear Worklight Ideas

   / TC Series Rear Worklight Ideas #1  
Joined
Apr 28, 2005
Messages
36
Location
Eastern Shore, Maryland
Tractor
New Holland TC 35
Okay, so I during the winter I figured out that I NEED a rear work light to see what I am doing while backing up/ blade work.
I decided that whatever set up the NH dealer is selling, I can make out of a set of rubberized 12v worklights I picked up at NAPA.
Well, it didn't take long to figure out that the harness that is on my tractor in the vicinity of where I would want a work light is on the ROPS and is CONSTANT 12v. I would have thought it to be tied into the switch for the fronts? Anyway, this has be back at the NH dealer to look at/ buy what they sell. I am directed to an area of the dealership that has about 10 different styles of worklights, find the number they gave me, take it to the counter, I think it was like $30.00. Not bad, 30 bucks? Now, I start thinking about the set I had already bought a the auto parts store and how they wouldnt mount just with the provided studs and would require me to fab some type of bracket (If I wanted to be able to adust them, that is).
Okay, long story short, I say, "hey, there must be another braket required here", the woman behind the counter brings back up the exploded view, "oh yeah, you need a (insert random part number here). "Okay, guess if I need it to even mount the light"
Now, heres the intersting part........
$47.00 for this stupid bent bracket. (thats forty seven)
WTH?
Anyway, back to the lights I bought form NAPA, which are not switced at the light. Any ideas or completed projects where the blank in my dash next to the 4 way flasher is used with a NH switch?
I'm figuring the harness's already at the ROPS aren't doing me much good with 12V constant? Unless I can find out where they come from in the dash and pigtail/switch them up there.
Any drawbacks to this idea, any reason to NEED the sealed swithch type NH sells?
Sorry for the long windedness, and spelling. (spell checker won't work for me)
 
   / TC Series Rear Worklight Ideas #2  
I can't directly address the TC issue, as mine is a '99 1920. However, I recently added work lights front and rear. I purchased a sealed waterproof switch for less than ten bucks at TSC, along with two trapezoid work lights to face forward and a wide angle light for the rear. Total cost with assorted wire loom and accessories less than $60. The rear light mounted by its stud to a hole already in the right fender behind the base of the ROPS. It's a twin to the hole on the left side that mounts the red rear marker light. I took power off the main wire coming in to the fuse box, added an inline fuse holder, and ran the wire to the switch. The switch was mounted to a blank area in the dash panel just left of the steering wheel. From there the wire runs back to the rear light. I took some extra time and a bunch of wire ties for this step to keep the wire close in to the chassis in an effort to avoid catching sticks and debris (so far so good). If I wanted to get a little fancier I could have added another switch to keep the front and rear work lights separate, but I figured anytime I'm working and need the lights, I probably need to see an implement behind me just as much as I need to see where I'm going.

Sorry I can't address the TC specific switching, but this is what works for me. Hope something in here is of use.
 
   / TC Series Rear Worklight Ideas #3  
I don't remember the manufacturer but I bought two lights with it's own switch in the top of it at our dealership. I ran a power wire and a ground wire directly from the battery. I built a light bar out of 1" square tubing, used some spacers, and bolted it directly to the bottom of the roll bar (this required drilling and tapping the roll bar). I had an extra light that did not have it's own switch that I used also. I wired the two switched lights into the wires I ran from the battery and installed a inline fuse. These two lights are facing forward. The non-switched light got a male bullet connector put on it and I just plug it into the factory plug you spoke about when I need it. This light is facing rearward. Eventually I will rewire it so it is on a switch. I don't know how crafty you are or your resources are but you could save yourself alot of money and make your own bracket instead of spending $47 on the NH bracket.
 
   / TC Series Rear Worklight Ideas
  • Thread Starter
#4  
The expensive bracket at the dealer won't be happening. I told them of my disgust, basically saying " why not swap the bracket price for the price of the light itself"? This way they might have less people walking away shaking their heads.
Thanks for the tips, More than likely I'll buy the switch that fits in the knock out and just run new wires from there back to the Bar and cut some 1/4X1" flat stock to mount them up.
 
   / TC Series Rear Worklight Ideas #5  
We use the Hobbs Halogen light with built in switch. They are well made and easy to install. At times you nees to hang a light from te underside of the ROPS and they will not shake apart like the ones supplied at auto parts stores. Good Luck. Good Luck, Tractorman
 
   / TC Series Rear Worklight Ideas #6  
Wow !! I thought the bracket I bought for my tc33 was a bit pricey at $23. There have been some good ideas on putting lights on the rops written here and should be easy enough to find in the archives. Good luck
 
   / TC Series Rear Worklight Ideas #7  
You definitely want to use weather proof switches. Dirt and water will kill an unprotected switch in no time.
 
   / TC Series Rear Worklight Ideas
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I think I'll get the exact one (rectangle) from the dealer that fits into the dash. (same as hazards and driving lights) Might sound queer, but my tractor hasn't seen ANY weather since new other thn being trailered on nasty, salty roads after a snow. I'm sure the ones that are already on the dash are good for weather huh?
 
   / TC Series Rear Worklight Ideas #9  
I am not sure if the switches are the same for the TC35 as the TC48, but when I recently added lights to my 48 (based on another TBN thread) I ended up using NAPA RS1055 switches which look just like the standard light switches and are rated for 20 amps. I ended up not putting in another switch for the forward facing FOPS mounted lights, I used a relay off the factory forward worklight circuits. I did use the switch for the rear mounted lights and it works well.
Good luck.
 

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