TC33D BUCKET CYLINDER

[WBL]

I HAVE A TC33D WITH A 7308 LOADER. I TRIED TO DISASEMBLE THE BUCKET CYLINDER, BUT THE HEAD JUST SPINS IN THE BARREL. I HAVE WORKED ON THREADED, SNAP RING, AND WELDED CYLINDERS,BUT THIS ONE IS RACKING MY BRAIN. HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM?

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Pics ?

 

[DougMacTractor]

I HAVE A TC33D WITH A 7308 LOADER. I TRIED TO DISASEMBLE THE BUCKET CYLINDER, BUT THE HEAD JUST SPINS IN THE BARREL. I HAVE WORKED ON THREADED, SNAP RING, AND WELDED CYLINDERS,BUT THIS ONE IS RACKING MY BRAIN. HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM?

Did you ever find a solution? I'm having the same problem now. I removed the hose fittings from the port and I can see the internal end piece (plug?) turning with the cap. I'm thinking about drilling a hole in the plug and using a pick or screw driver to hold the inside piece still while I back the cap off.

Both bucket cylinders do the same thing. It is on a New Holland TC30 with a 7308 loader. I'm guessing it is a Schwartz cylinder.

 

[LouNY]

I have seen a few cylinder end caps with internal retaining wires that had to be hooked and pulled out the fitting port.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Looks to me that you wil have to pressurize that side by pulling in the silinder by the hydraulice and then looseni g that nut before removing your hydraulic lines.Remove nut from gland .Then remove lines and tap gland in. Then remove the inner wireclip and then pull rod out with gland and piston.

 

[DougMacTractor]

So you are saying that I need to start the tractor and do something like raise the tractor off the ground by tilting the bucket down, which will pressurize that side of the cylinder, and then loosen the nut? I have the cylinders off the tractor, but I can put them back on.

No, you are right. I need to tilt the bucket up (pull the rod in) to pressurize that side.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Yes !

 

[spitter]

Has to b another way to remove it because I just had both same exact cylinders rebuilt with piston snapped inside of cylinder. Cylinder was off of tractor and leaked so bad no way to pressureize cylinder. I took it to hydraulics shop and they rebuilt them for 75$ apice plus parts.:drink:

 

[RickB]

There are surely other ways, but DL is correct. You can also mechanically extend the cylinder and hold pressure on the fully extended rod while you unthread the spanner nut with a punch and hammer. But it is disassembled in the manner DL describes.

 

[DougMacTractor]

Thank-you All. I will give these ideas a try today. I wish I knew of a hydraulics shop in Fresno, CA with as reasonable rates as the one Spitter has in Blairtown.

 

[DougMacTractor]

Thank-you for the help. I was able to take it apart and rebuild the cylinders. It works good again. The seals were shot in both cylinders. I used a steel digging bar and some chains to pull on the rod and a ratcheting tie-down strap to the bumper of my truck to hold the gland tight between the piston and the retaining clip and used a hammer and cold chisel to loosen the cap. Compressed air didn't work because the seals were too far gone.

Thanks again. I'm a new memeber and very impressed with this forum.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Gr8 !

 

[spitter]

It' always thinking out the box that gets those p I a jobs done. A.K.A. bush fix nice job.:cool2:

 

[RickB]

Awesome!

 

[FarmerDavid]

We have the same loader, same cylinders and the same situation. We were able to use the tractor hydraulics to apply the necessary pressure to keep the inside piece from spinning. Disconnected the piston from the bucket to allow it to extend fully, applied hydraulic pressure with the joystick (push to right) while someone else turned the nut with a spanner. Works well.

After the spanner nut is removed, drive the inside part further into the cylinder (we used a piece of hardwood that fit inside the gap). This makes enough room to push the retaining ring further in to get it out of its groove. Then twist and extract it. Small screwdrivers work for this.

Then, with some effort, the piston will come out of the cylinder. We put a piece of conduit through the eye at the end of the piston and struck it (coordinated blows) on both sides with pieces of 4X4 to bang it out a fraction of an inch at a time.

Great forum, thanks very much for everyone's help!

View attachment 572836View attachment 572837View attachment 572838
Thank-you for the help. I was able to take it apart and rebuild the cylinders. It works good again. The seals were shot in both cylinders. I used a steel digging bar and some chains to pull on the rod and a ratcheting tie-down strap to the bumper of my truck to hold the gland tight between the piston and the retaining clip and used a hammer and cold chisel to loosen the cap. Compressed air didn't work because the seals were too far gone.

Thanks again. I'm a new memeber and very impressed with this forum.