TC33D Water Pump Torque

   #1  

Florida_Farmer

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Jun 30, 2002
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74
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Central Florida
Tractor
841 Powermaster, TC33D, Yanmar 1500, Yanmar 2210B, Scag Turf Tiger, Exmark 72" Lazer Z
Unfortunately, I'll be replacing my water pump tomorrow on my TC33D - it was my fault for forcing a belt on that was toooo tight and it was too much for the bearing..
Anyway, I don't have a service manual to give me the torque settings or tightening sequence if they have it and wondered if anybody has that manual and can provide any details (any other tips on removal would be welcomed).

Thanks
 
   #2  

thclimer

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Sep 4, 2002
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Location
Eastern NY
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New Holland TC33D, Massey 1736
I believe you can use the chart on the second page of this attachment to determine the correct torque, its from the service manual for a TC33 & TC33D
 

Attachments

  • TC33D Page 83-84.pdf
    3.7 MB · Views: 33
   #3  

thclimer

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Eastern NY
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New Holland TC33D, Massey 1736
Here is the section for the water pump removal and installation.
 

Attachments

  • TC33D Page 61-62.pdf
    4.1 MB · Views: 37
  
  • Thread Starter
#4  
OP
F

Florida_Farmer

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Central Florida
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841 Powermaster, TC33D, Yanmar 1500, Yanmar 2210B, Scag Turf Tiger, Exmark 72" Lazer Z
Here is the section for the water pump removal and installation.
Thank you very much! Very helpful.

I didn't find much on-line about this replacement so here are a few comments on what I experienced.

The 4 bolts and the nut that attach the pump are really a pain to get to clean.. I used a small 1/4" ratchet with a short 10 socket - that was the only thing that would clear the pully...

I ended up not removing the radiator - I removed the fan shroud (4 bolts) and after I had the pump loose - I was able to lift the shroud and pump straight up and out.
The gasket was like concrete on the block - had to spray with PB Blaster and carb cleaner a few times to get it soft enough to scrape off. Make sure to plug the water port on the block with a rag while your scraping - I vacuumed it out with a shop vac when I was done just to be sure.

After I put the whole pump and shroud back on quickly realized I had made a mistake in the sequence of the pulley and spacer and as a result, the water pump pulley was not lined up - it was 1/2" forward of the crank pully and alternator.... I didn't want to take the new pump off because it was a pain and I only had one new gasket and hate to take them apart and re-seal so I ended up loosening up the radiator and was able to lean it back enough to easily get the bolts off the fan. After I re-arranged the spacer and pully - the pully lined up.

Reconnect your lower radiator hose before the belt goes on - makes it much easier for the connection to the bottom of the pump.

All in all, about 3-4 hours for me. If you have to do this, buy new rubber spacers for the bottom of the radiator and I did not use any gasket sealer - so far so good.

I bought a New Holland pump from my dealer - was over 200.... There are lots of aftermarket ones for 50 or so but I had 2800 hours on my original one and it would probably still be doing fine if I had not been a dummy and forced too tight of a belt on it a few months ago so I bought the OEM so I don't have to do this job again.

Hope this helps anyone who has to go down this road.
Thanks again for the files.
 
   #5  

Tazz

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87
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Texas, Montgomery Co
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TC29D
What you did should work out perfectly fine. I just changed mine on a TC29D and found the same things, including mounting the fan twice. The gasket was put on with kryptonite from the factory and there's no easy reference for finding torque spec's on the bolts. I can't recall what number I used but I converted it to inch/pounds for my 1/4 torque wrench. I only applied gasket sealer to the pump side of the gasket to hold it in place and there's no leaks.

I needed the tractor and went the cheap route with an aftermarket one from eBay. It looks good might work but still have my doubts. The dealer is too far and too long a wait to get one.
 
  
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#6  
OP
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Florida_Farmer

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74
Location
Central Florida
Tractor
841 Powermaster, TC33D, Yanmar 1500, Yanmar 2210B, Scag Turf Tiger, Exmark 72" Lazer Z
If there is a next time then I would probably loosen the radiator and lean it back and first remove the fan and the spacers making it much easier to get at the water pump bolts. I would also install the pump without the fan and spacers - that's the only way I would be able to get a torque wrench on the bolts - the pully is too close otherwise. It was pretty easy to get the fan and spacer on and off with the radiator tilted back.
 
   #7  

podagrower

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Apr 5, 2007
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213
Location
Eustis, FL
Tractor
NH TC 40
Must be the season, I just changed the water pump on my TC40 over the weekend. Pulled the battery, radiator, took the fan, spacer, and pulley off. As everyone noted, the gasket for the factory water pump appears to be part of the engine casting process? I debated using the OEM pump versus aftermarket and went aftermarket, used water pump/thermostat RTV, made a variety of mistakes reassembling, but so far, so good.
 
 
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