johnnylight
Gold Member
gildebbiz,
glad you found the problem.
Still curious why the safety switch fuse blew.
glad you found the problem.
Still curious why the safety switch fuse blew.
TC33D Won't start
- Thread starter gildebbiz
- Start date
- Views: 14149
SteveInMD
Platinum Member
No one has figured out why, but it is common.
RickB
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2000
- Messages
- 15,143
- Location
- Up the road from Dollar General WNC
- Tractor
- Just a Scag
Low voltage = high current draw.
SteveInMD
Platinum Member
I'm sure this rule applies in some way to the starting circuit, however what's really happening is a little more complex. While a low battery can make the problem worse you can also blow the starting circuit fuse with a fully charged battery. The combination of safety interlock switches and starter solenoid in the same circuit seems to be a bad idea in this case.
jim46ok
New member
I know it's been a while since this thread. But for anyone that is researching start problems, here is what I found on my TC45D.
Intermittent start problems. Had to wiggle shifter past "N" several times to start. Sometimes start relay would click, sometimes not. Traced it to the "transmission range switch" on driver's side of transmission case. This switch is part of the safety interlock system for starting. I removed the switch. (unplug 2 bullet connections) use 3/4" open end, unscrew from transmission. I hooked meter on the leads, pushed the spring loaded button, and found sometimes it made contact, sometimes not. So, I chucked the little "nipple" or button in my cordless drill, and slowly turned it several times. Seems to have cleared some sort of debris or oxidation inside the switch body, as now it makes and breaks contact as it should. Replacement is about $46. Hope this works.
Intermittent start problems. Had to wiggle shifter past "N" several times to start. Sometimes start relay would click, sometimes not. Traced it to the "transmission range switch" on driver's side of transmission case. This switch is part of the safety interlock system for starting. I removed the switch. (unplug 2 bullet connections) use 3/4" open end, unscrew from transmission. I hooked meter on the leads, pushed the spring loaded button, and found sometimes it made contact, sometimes not. So, I chucked the little "nipple" or button in my cordless drill, and slowly turned it several times. Seems to have cleared some sort of debris or oxidation inside the switch body, as now it makes and breaks contact as it should. Replacement is about $46. Hope this works.
Chris In Gallupville
New member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2010
- Messages
- 17
- Tractor
- Boomer 46 CVT
I have to thank you guys for the fuse discussion. This morning we're deep in heavy snow. Snowblower clogs, I bring it home to clean it and when I hop off the tractor, it dies. I think maybe the emergency brake didn't catch but when I'm all ready to go, it cranks but won't start. Mind you, it's 4:30 am, snowing hard and I'm in the driveway. I tinker with every safety switch and connection and nothing. Then I log in here, get the fuse discussion in my head, confirm that #5 has blown and now I'm good to go. Saved my life. I'm grateful.
What's with the fuse thing? Anybody got a clue? Fuse failure is not common nor should it be. What gives?
What's with the fuse thing? Anybody got a clue? Fuse failure is not common nor should it be. What gives?
dqdave1
Veteran Member
The problem, IMHO, comes from the circuits that route through many safety switches, etc. and this causes a voltage drop and as voltage drops, amps increase causing the fuse to blow. Combine this voltage drop from wiring and couple iot with a battery that is not completely charged and fuse blows. Replace fuse with a resettable circuit breaker; available at most automotive stores that replaces the fuse. I would increase amperes on circuit breaker slightly to help with this situation. ( 7.5 amp to a 10 amp)