thcri
Elite Member
Yeah that happened for me too. Ford dealer donated. Do you guys remember the extra brake pedal?
Murph
Murph
TC33DA 6 hour report
- Thread starter Buckee
- Start date
- Views: 2158
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do you know of any schools that still have such classes? )</font>
Our public HS has a class to help us get through the written test. no "charge" (tax payers would disagree /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif )
no on-road training tho
Our public HS has a class to help us get through the written test. no "charge" (tax payers would disagree /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif )
no on-road training tho
Riddler
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Messages
- 275
- Location
- Sonoma County, CA
- Tractor
- New Holland TN75VA, New Holland TC45DA, New Holland TC18
Buckee, like you, I am enjoying my first hours of seat time (a new TC45DA). If I understand you correctly, sounds like getting the hydro into the I speed range can be a bit difficult. I posted on this issue a few weeks back. As it sounds like you've discovered, a slight tap on the reverse pedal before going from the neutral position to the I position works just fine.
Also, thanks to the great folks on TBN, I have come to understand that the farther you press on the hydro pedal, the less power (but more speed) is available. This is a bit counterintuitive to folks like us whose only point of reference is how cars run. On cars, we press the accelerator further when we want more speed and power (e.g, torque). I guess that the hydro tranny set up changes things a bit on a tractor (although I don't quite know why).
If my understanding is correct, then if you run the machine uphill in the II speed position with the hydro pedal depressed fully, you're likely to see the thing bog down. The key, I'm told, is to select the right combination of speed position and pedal activation that delivers the most speed (if pace is your concern) without any noticeable bog down.
You'll love your new blue the more use it. I certainly do.
Also, thanks to the great folks on TBN, I have come to understand that the farther you press on the hydro pedal, the less power (but more speed) is available. This is a bit counterintuitive to folks like us whose only point of reference is how cars run. On cars, we press the accelerator further when we want more speed and power (e.g, torque). I guess that the hydro tranny set up changes things a bit on a tractor (although I don't quite know why).
If my understanding is correct, then if you run the machine uphill in the II speed position with the hydro pedal depressed fully, you're likely to see the thing bog down. The key, I'm told, is to select the right combination of speed position and pedal activation that delivers the most speed (if pace is your concern) without any noticeable bog down.
You'll love your new blue the more use it. I certainly do.
Thanks all for the responses. Bill I share your deep concern for safety - in retrospect my enthusiastic post sure did not sound like it. I do agree with Jim & others that only by showing our kids what's right & safe does the message get through - they are too distracted these days to count on talk. So I put him on the seat with me, just like I did on our boat years ago, and he learns because his hands are touching the controls, his backside is feeling the inclines, the wind's in his hair (wow I'm waxing poetic here). The biggest lesson he got then & now was that we do everything - everything - slow & steady, considering all the angles & options. He has proven he can handle a 30' boat - he will learn this the same way, a little at a time. I sincerely appreciate & understand your concerns & the risks - my approach is certainly not right for everybody. Thank you - I will remember your concerns.
Re the tractor & work ahead, I'm a little surprised at my dealer who didn't want to sell me a rear blade for snow & gravel driveway work, saying the FEL and box blade should do it all. After last weekend I can tell the box won't efficiently pull the side scrapings back into the drive, and the soft ditches on either side won't let me go 90 degrees to the drive & pull it in that way. I think I need a blade - one with both angle & tilt, 6 foot to cover the wheels while at an angle. Will I wish I got one with offset as well? Anybody have a specific recommendation?
2nd question - I pulled the box blade teeth up & used blade alone last weekend, thinking the old hard-packed gravel would just tear the teeth up. Am I babying it - would they handle the gravel OK? It's a Bush Hog SBX-600 blade & looks pretty tough compared to the competition, but I don't know its limits yet. And wow - I can see how easily you could put a tooth thru a tire if back-blading. Again, I gotta go slow, consider the angles... if this was simple & easy it wouldn't be near as much fun.
She's back in the shop getting the grapple installed - it came in late - then I'll take pictures. Thanks so much for all the help - Buckee
Re the tractor & work ahead, I'm a little surprised at my dealer who didn't want to sell me a rear blade for snow & gravel driveway work, saying the FEL and box blade should do it all. After last weekend I can tell the box won't efficiently pull the side scrapings back into the drive, and the soft ditches on either side won't let me go 90 degrees to the drive & pull it in that way. I think I need a blade - one with both angle & tilt, 6 foot to cover the wheels while at an angle. Will I wish I got one with offset as well? Anybody have a specific recommendation?
2nd question - I pulled the box blade teeth up & used blade alone last weekend, thinking the old hard-packed gravel would just tear the teeth up. Am I babying it - would they handle the gravel OK? It's a Bush Hog SBX-600 blade & looks pretty tough compared to the competition, but I don't know its limits yet. And wow - I can see how easily you could put a tooth thru a tire if back-blading. Again, I gotta go slow, consider the angles... if this was simple & easy it wouldn't be near as much fun.
She's back in the shop getting the grapple installed - it came in late - then I'll take pictures. Thanks so much for all the help - Buckee
PineRidge
Super Member
Buckee it sounds to us like you ended up with a nice tractor and I'm sure you will enjoy it for years to come.
You made a comment that you were not sure why you might need SuperSteer since you were impressed with the stock steering curve. To me the largest advantage of having SuperSteer is twofold. First it makes any steering changes with a full loader bucket kids play. It's like enhanced power steering. I'll bet you would be hard pressed to find a user here that currently has SuperSteer complaining that they don't think their power steering is functioning properly under loaded conditions. Plus with the SuperSteer option comes the bonus of Sensitrak which shifts your tractor in and out of 4WD automatically when it is needed. Sure SS is nice for the really tight turns but it also takes all the grunt work out of steering under any conditions.
Enjoy that new tractor of yours.
You made a comment that you were not sure why you might need SuperSteer since you were impressed with the stock steering curve. To me the largest advantage of having SuperSteer is twofold. First it makes any steering changes with a full loader bucket kids play. It's like enhanced power steering. I'll bet you would be hard pressed to find a user here that currently has SuperSteer complaining that they don't think their power steering is functioning properly under loaded conditions. Plus with the SuperSteer option comes the bonus of Sensitrak which shifts your tractor in and out of 4WD automatically when it is needed. Sure SS is nice for the really tight turns but it also takes all the grunt work out of steering under any conditions.
Enjoy that new tractor of yours.
sherpa
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2004
- Messages
- 538
- Location
- North Carolina Mountains
- Tractor
- 2004 NH TC33D & 2014 NH Boomer 24
Buckee
I got the same tractor just last week and I love it. Already washed it 3 times! I had some immplements and the 5 1/2 foot scrape blade made for the 8N is perfect for the TC33. It is about 3 or 4 inches past each side when it is set up straight. I have a box blade with teeth and it will not hurt it to use it in gravel, thats what they are for; moving materal around. Using that box blade is one of ways I descovered how much I love that TC33. I laid it into the earth behind that TC in a gravel drive and the TC didnt know it was back there. It cut down about 4 inches deep, I was in a nieghbors driveway playing. I had to back up and fix the drive. I was used to the other tractor bogging down or spinning before it would cut that good! Man that was fun!
Also, I wish someone would have gotten me on a tractor when I was younger. I was 50 before I got my first tractor. I could have been riding tractors for 30 years instead of motorcycles!
Sherpa
I got the same tractor just last week and I love it. Already washed it 3 times! I had some immplements and the 5 1/2 foot scrape blade made for the 8N is perfect for the TC33. It is about 3 or 4 inches past each side when it is set up straight. I have a box blade with teeth and it will not hurt it to use it in gravel, thats what they are for; moving materal around. Using that box blade is one of ways I descovered how much I love that TC33. I laid it into the earth behind that TC in a gravel drive and the TC didnt know it was back there. It cut down about 4 inches deep, I was in a nieghbors driveway playing. I had to back up and fix the drive. I was used to the other tractor bogging down or spinning before it would cut that good! Man that was fun!
Also, I wish someone would have gotten me on a tractor when I was younger. I was 50 before I got my first tractor. I could have been riding tractors for 30 years instead of motorcycles!
Sherpa
Woodcab
Member
Buckee, Congratulations on the tractor. I recently purchased a TC40DA which I am really enjoying. I have a box scraper and a rear blade and so far have found the blade to be better for grading my gravel road. As you pointed out the blade is better able to pull material from the edge of the road to the center. Also my blade offsets and this has been super for getting into the ditches while keeping the tractor on the solid part of the road. The blade was expensive but for my needs I think it was well worth it. I have included a picture of me cleaning the ditch with the blade offset, tipped and angled. With top and tilt it is even easier to make adjustments.
Good luck and enjoy your seat time. By the way my boys have both taken safe rides on the tractor with me.
Good luck and enjoy your seat time. By the way my boys have both taken safe rides on the tractor with me.
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djradz
Veteran Member
I think you'll find the rear blade essential. One with tilt however doesn't seem necessary as most of what you need to do as far as tilting can be done manually with the tractor's three point. Hydraulic tilt is a nicety that can sometimes speed up the work but seldom essential. The ability to offset is a real great feature, but not found on many blades today. If you're really planning on pulling in with the blade, and can't get the tractor that far out because of the ditches, then it becomes essential. Otherwise, most of the time you'll just angle the blade to pull either left or right.