6sunset6
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2007
- Messages
- 1,055
- Location
- SE NY
- Tractor
- NH TC34DA 34HP HST, 2 rear remotes, front diverter, loaded R4's
This could go in Hydraulics but ultimately it was mechanical bolts loose so it goes here.
Bucket started dumping by itself faster with a heavier load. Oh yeah 2007 machine bought new Just coming up on 300 hr oil change. I have a diverter valve on it Fasse. In fact my installation is on their web site.
The joystick handle was loose , I pulled off the cover and tightened the nut holding the handle on. The handle was still sort of goofy loose but I thought it was sort of normal. Everything worked except for the curl droop. So I read Jinman's excellent technique for isolating cylinder bypass issues. But I have a diverter valve so first I had to get it out of the circuit.
My install allowed for quick removal 2 hoses off replaced by caps on tees. The two more hoses swapped back and two plugs. All jic so pretty easy. Still had the problem. I was very doubtful of cylinder bypass , too new, and so got out my manuals and started reading. Just to increase my knowledge . Turns out there are check valves in the joystick valve, that was good to know. I thought one might be hung up on a piece of dirt. I pulled off the big cover over the valve and the check vlaves are under a set off steel pipes. Not conducive to removal. While I was looking at this jumble of pipes and thinking about the way to check cylinder bypass I notice a bolt on top of the valve backed way out. It held the swivel ball joint that actuated the curl cylinder. Two adjacent bolts were down tight. Tightened the bolt. Now I remembered how tight the handle was supposed to be. Ran the bucket around for a while lock to lock. Problem went away. Put the diverter valve back in. Problem did not return. Whewww. It is not always seals and cylinders.
Bucket started dumping by itself faster with a heavier load. Oh yeah 2007 machine bought new Just coming up on 300 hr oil change. I have a diverter valve on it Fasse. In fact my installation is on their web site.
The joystick handle was loose , I pulled off the cover and tightened the nut holding the handle on. The handle was still sort of goofy loose but I thought it was sort of normal. Everything worked except for the curl droop. So I read Jinman's excellent technique for isolating cylinder bypass issues. But I have a diverter valve so first I had to get it out of the circuit.
My install allowed for quick removal 2 hoses off replaced by caps on tees. The two more hoses swapped back and two plugs. All jic so pretty easy. Still had the problem. I was very doubtful of cylinder bypass , too new, and so got out my manuals and started reading. Just to increase my knowledge . Turns out there are check valves in the joystick valve, that was good to know. I thought one might be hung up on a piece of dirt. I pulled off the big cover over the valve and the check vlaves are under a set off steel pipes. Not conducive to removal. While I was looking at this jumble of pipes and thinking about the way to check cylinder bypass I notice a bolt on top of the valve backed way out. It held the swivel ball joint that actuated the curl cylinder. Two adjacent bolts were down tight. Tightened the bolt. Now I remembered how tight the handle was supposed to be. Ran the bucket around for a while lock to lock. Problem went away. Put the diverter valve back in. Problem did not return. Whewww. It is not always seals and cylinders.
