TC34DA dead

[RWBTC34]

OK I have read thru a bunch of my tractor will not start.

Friday I strated my tracor several times with no issues. now that it is fron tmy my house I go to start it and I got a click and nothing. No dash lights no realy noise dead as a nail.

Checked the battery, load tested test good.
Checked connections on relays, cleaned all connections.
Key switch, sometimes I get movement on the volt meter somethings not.
Checked the level positions and even jiggled each in Neutral to see if I get anything.

Check for voltage at the starter relay (left side under the side cover) I get 12VDC across the Black and red wires. Swapped the relay with another from teh right side relay bank. still no start.

Wire to the key switch I get less than 12 volts measured on red and orange wires. (5-7VDC)
behond dash ther eis a black box that controls theflasher and turnsignals and a bunch of other stuff. No 12 DVC ging into the box.

Fuses on the right side fire wall all check good. cleaned each and blew any dust out of the area.

Pulled all teh relays cleaned and replaced. nothing. did some swapping of relayc still nothing.

40 amp fuse above the starter good.

Battery terminals cleanded and tightened.

I can trace power to the starter relay (12VDC)

Going to redue the battery ground to the frame and see what happens next.

Key switch? I do not think so as it started fine next start a click and nothing like the battery is not there.

Any help would be approciated.

 

[mjonesnh]

Have read of some New Holland having corrosion issues inside the battery cable insulation and not obvious. If you take jumper cables and hook to battery and then clamp other end to where cable terminates that would eliminate that if no start. I do know they had trouble with the ground cable where it bolts to frame.

 

[dlctcg]

Have you checked your battery cables?

If not, I would definitely test your positive & negative cables... They are known to look fine but to be corroded internally. This is a fairly common problem on the NH TC tractors....

From one of my previous posts:

Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.

You can test if there is an issue with your existing battery cables pretty simply.

Remove the negative battery cable & then take a negative jumper cable wire and place it on the bare negative post of your tractor battery. Connect the other end to a solid clean ground of the tractor (bare metal location). Try starting the tractor & see if that makes a difference...

If that doesn't change anything you can do the same process on the positive post. Disconnect the Negative jumper from the Battery terminal. Then using your positive jumper cable attach one end to where the positive battery cable connects to the starter (connect this end first), and the other end to the positive battery post (last). Make sure the jumper cable is not able to arc to near by metal. Now reconnect the Negative jumper cable to the battery & try starting the tractor again & see if that changes anything...

Doing this process you basically bypassed the battery cables on the machine, and then can troubleshoot from there.

That is where I would start first... let us know the results & we can go from there....

 

[RWBTC34]

Have you checked your battery cables?

If not, I would definitely test your positive & negative cables... They are known to look fine but to be corroded internally. This is a fairly common problem on the NH TC tractors....

From one of my previous posts:

Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.

You can test if there is an issue with your existing battery cables pretty simply.

Remove the negative battery cable & then take a negative jumper cable wire and place it on the bare negative post of your tractor battery. Connect the other end to a solid clean ground of the tractor (bare metal location). Try starting the tractor & see if that makes a difference...

If that doesn't change anything you can do the same process on the positive post. Disconnect the Negative jumper from the Battery terminal. Then using your positive jumper cable attach one end to where the positive battery cable connects to the starter (connect this end first), and the other end to the positive battery post (last). Make sure the jumper cable is not able to arc to near by metal. Now reconnect the Negative jumper cable to the battery & try starting the tractor again & see if that changes anything...

Doing this process you basically bypassed the battery cables on the machine, and then can troubleshoot from there.

That is where I would start first... let us know the results & we can go from there....

Intersting. Will order a set of cables.

Something of note, reconnecting the negative cable I get no spark completing the circut. That could be a corroded cable.

Load checked the battery it shows good.

explain why I have 12 DVC at the Starter relay under the left side cover but nothing on the dash, lights, or switch.

 

[alexpops]

If that is one of the re-badged LS's check the main fuse (100 amp) connection on the hot cable for corrosion. My LS did the same thing until I changed the cable set-up & replaced both hot & ground with #2 Welding cable.

 

[alexpops]

On the LS they have a straight pass thru "bracket" that feeds the Starter via the Main hot cable. Attached to the bracket is a 100 amp fuse that passes power to the two 50 amp system fuses (key/dash and fuse panel). On mine, the bolt attaching the fuse leg to the feeder wire for the downstream fuses was rusted solid and creating big resistance that dropped downstream volts to 5.

 

[Hughman]

TCs are not LS

 

[WM75Guy]

The TC internal corrosion problem is sometimes difficult to identify. It will allow volts to pass but not amps. You may get good voltage readings with a voltage meter or a spark when connecting a circuit. But turn the key and nothing happens. As was suggested bypass the positive and negative cables with jumper cables to check.

 

[RWBTC34]

Have you checked your battery cables?

If not, I would definitely test your positive & negative cables... They are known to look fine but to be corroded internally. This is a fairly common problem on the NH TC tractors....

From one of my previous posts:

Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.


That is where I would start first... let us know the results & we can go from there....

My gauges and all are NOT working. I have no schematic to work from so I am just looking for obvious thing to try. If it is not battery cables where do I go from there?

I will try Battery cables tonight after work.

 

[Hughman]

Check the fuses under the hood on the forewall. On mine fuse#2 will disable starting if it blows. Not sure how different the 35 is from the 33 since it is the next frame size up.