TC35D Loses power while running, then no power with ign on

[JDBeck23]

Hey all, I致e read the stickies about starting problems but mine seems to be a bit different. It痴 a 2002 TC35D with only 700 hours.

I致e had it for 6 years and only had minor starting 殿nnoyances. The other day I started it and let it warm up a bit... I drove it out of the lean-to and hung a hard right... mid turn the tractor lost power and died. I tried to restart, then the whole thing went dead, no lights when the ign switch was in 登n position. I checked the fuses and found #2 blown, and the Maxi fuse. Coincidentally the maxi fuse holder was cracked in half, and the battery was low and the battery cables were original to the tractor with manufacture dates in 2001.

After replacing the maxi fuse holder, battery and both battery cables, the tractor fired right up, so I thought I was good. Started mowing for about 15 mins and while driving in a straight line, the tractor died again. The maxi fuse looks fine, no blown fuses in the fuse box... what could it be? My gut tells me that if I致e got power to the maxi fuse holder, batt cables are good, next thing in line is the ign switch... what do you guys think? Anyone else had this issue?

Thanks in advance,
Jesse

 

[TnAndy]

Sounds electrical, but might be fuel too. I'd figure that out first.

With the tractor running, get a test light probe on the hot wire to the fuel solenoid shutoff. Should have power. Wait for it to die, see if you still have power on that lead. If you do, the solenoid should be allowing fuel to pass, and the tractor should be running. You have a fuel supply problem.

If the test light shows no power, (with the tractor in neutral, brake on, anything that would normally allow you to stand beside the tractor and it run) the solenoid kicked in, shutting off the fuel as it is supposed to do, and killing the engine. You have an electrical problem because there is no power where there should be power.

Once you determine which problem you have, you can start down the path of finding the problem.

 

[JDBeck23]

When I say no power, I mean nothing, not lights, no nothing when the ignition switch is in the on position. If the fuel solenoid can cause that please let me know, otherwise I am thinking it痴 electrical only.

 

[Professor Marvel]

I had what sounds like a similar problem off and on for several months with my NH. Except my flashers would go on and off at times when I did not have the switch on. Sometimes the tractor motor stopped also. Replaced the flasher switch and it worked right for a month or so then stopped. I tested the seat switch and it seemed ok.
Anyway, at one point I noticed that there was some consistency as to what would work and what would work wrong at the same time. I replaced the seat switch and the flasher switch and it has worked fine for over a year now. Not sure how they are interlocked and it was driving me crazy (almost replaced the ignition switch) and when I replaced the seat switch (even though it was testing good) and the flasher switch it worked.
I still can't figure out the exact sequence that was occurring.

 

[breaknach]

I'm have the exact same issues with my NH TC33D ... I have gone threw all the fuses and have had the battery on trickle charger and its saying its fully charged and I can't even get a light on the dash to come on ... and I have replaced every fuse from the main fuse next to the solenoid to the ones on the firewall... and I have absolutely nothing... not a clue where to go from here.... any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[thclimer]

I'm have the exact same issues with my NH TC33D ... I have gone threw all the fuses and have had the battery on trickle charger and its saying its fully charged and I can't even get a light on the dash to come on ... and I have replaced every fuse from the main fuse next to the solenoid to the ones on the firewall... and I have absolutely nothing... not a clue where to go from here.... any help would be greatly appreciated

I would start by reading this post and any other links to posts within it.

TC33D wont start

It is a 2004 TC33D with less than 300 hours. Here are the systems: Used the tractor Monday mowing using rear PTO no problems. Tried to start it Tuesday morning and it would not do anything. Checked to make sure all the safety switch levers are in place, and all seem to be ok. Went back later...

www.tractorbynet.com

One solution that have fixed many starting issues on these New Hollands is to install the relay which then supplies a dedicated power source to your starter. I did it to ours and it solved our starting problem.

 

[Rebeldad1]

First and foremost check for a good ground from the battery to the tractor. dont get lazy.... pull the ground lead off and clean the contact area

next you need to test to see where the power stopped.
test from battery to hot+ wire directly at the back of the key switch.
if nothing... go backwards to where that wire started from.... then back...back...
should be simple to find where the + terminated.
a good multimeter will tell you a lot.

 

[dlctcg]

As Rebeldad1 said... I would definitely test your positive & negative cables... They are known to look fine but be corroded internally on older NH machines.


From one of my previous posts:

Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.

You can test if there is an issue with your existing battery cables pretty simply.

Remove the negative battery cable & then take a negative jumper cable wire and place it on the bare negative post of your tractor battery. Connect the other end to a solid clean ground of the tractor (bare metal location). Try starting the tractor & see if that makes a difference...

If that doesn't change anything you can do the same process on the positive post. Disconnect the Negative jumper from the Battery terminal. Then using your positive jumper cable attach one end to where the positive battery cable connects to the starter (connect this end first), and the other end to the positive battery post (last). Make sure the jumper cable is not able to arc to near by metal. Now reconnect the Negative jumper cable to the battery & try starting the tractor again & see if that changes anything...

Doing this process you basically bypassed the battery cables on the machine, and then can troubleshoot from there.

 

[Professor Marvel]

I had what sounds like a similar problem off and on for several months with my NH. Except my flashers would go on and off at times when I did not have the switch on. Sometimes the tractor motor stopped also. Replaced the flasher switch and it worked right for a month or so then stopped. I tested the seat switch and it seemed ok.
Anyway, at one point I noticed that there was some consistency as to what would work and what would work wrong at the same time. I replaced the seat switch and the flasher switch and it has worked fine for over a year now. Not sure how they are interlocked and it was driving me crazy (almost replaced the ignition switch) and when I replaced the seat switch (even though it was testing good) and the flasher switch it worked.
I still can't figure out the exact sequence that was occurring.

I have a 45d (same tractor as 35) and i had seat/flasher switch problem. Replaced flasher switch and bypassed seat safety. Has workdd for 2 years now.
I don't know what the reason is but those 2 items together caused me a fit. After a rain the flashers come on until the circuit dries out but no running problems.