TC35D starting woes

[Lablue]

Removed the instrument panel...2nd fuse from left, blown!!!
Popped another in...fired right up. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Jeez , you guys are good!!
Many thanks for the help!!!
BTW, djradz...the old battery wasn't completely dry. All cells
were very low on electrolyte and the battery was bulging a little bit. I suspect in the heat of three summers down here, it got a bit low & I just neglected to check it. Won't make that mistake again /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif The good news, I had no battery acid damage!! The Interstate battery tech I got the replacement from said he seen similar damage on rough service batteries
where the caps were recessed like the OEM batteries from New Holland. But I think that subject has been thoroughly discussed in other threads.

 

[kensfarm]

Glad it worked out.. I wasted 45 minutes on the PTO safety switch first.. adjusting.. overriding it.. (it's hard to reach) I was banging my head w/ a load of firewood in the bucket.. plus it started raining. Replaced the fuse & like you said.. problem solved.

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Many thanks for the help!!!
)</font>

Didn't you know there's a consultation fee for this help? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

The next time someone has this problem and posts about it, you have to be the expert who tells them how to fix it. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Just tell them to go do #2. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Glad you are back to normal. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Was your #2 a fuse or a circuit breaker?

 

[Lablue]

jinman...that was a 7.5 amp fuse

 

[anonz]

Ok guys - I've got a similar problem (maybe the same problem). My 45D has twice now refused to even turn over when turning the key. You don't hear a thing. It doesn't trying to engage the starter. The other posts above seem to indicate that the blown fuse or short in a circuit will not allow the engine to fire, but it will allow it to turn over. Could someone confirm which it is?

Thanks guys.

Anonz

 

[DocHeb]

If it isn't the aformentioned fuse, it is the ignition key switch, or the seat safety switch, or the PTO safety switch, or the Range selector switch, or any of the wires and connections for the above.

 

[anonz]

Then it seemed the best place to start was with the fuses. None are open.

Anybody have a way of testing (shorting?) the different safety circuits to isolate which it is? Have an ohm meter if that helps. I guess I am wondering if there is an easy (under the hood?) location to isolate this.

Thanks again guys. The horses are sure getting used to their new partner.

Anonz

 

[jinman]

There are two checks you need to do to isolate your problem. One is a continuity check of each switch that Chris (DocHeb) mentioned. With the meter set to ohms, disconnect the leads to the seat safety switch and put the meter leads across the switch. Press the switch button and you should see continuity. do the same with the neutral start switch on the transmission. Put the the tractor in neutral and check for continuity. Continue with the PTO switch. BTW: If your PTO light illuminates when you engage the PTO, and extinguishes when you disengage it, it's not the PTO switch.

If those three switches check good, then you probably have a relay problem and you will have to go to the second set of checks. To check for that problem, you'll need to swap some similar relays or do some more extensive troubleshooting using your meter set to DC volts. To do that, you'll probably need the circuit schematic. If you check all switches and they are good (plus no broken wires) let us know and I'll try to get you a copy of the schematic.

 

[anonz]

When I told my wife that I had exhausted the switches and fuses to test (with the exception of one) and that I needed to get some more advise from DocHeb and Jim, she was wondering who could be giving this great advise (as she is in touch with the NH dealer service tech while I am out of town). Thanks to everyone at TBN.

The update:

- Fuses under console - check
- Master 40AMP fuse on outside of brake side (wouldn't make sense probably as the console is lighting appropriatly) - check
- Brake switch checked for continuity - check
- Seat switch checked for continuity - check
- PTO switch checked for continuity - check

One thing left to do that I need your help on:

- Where is the range selector switch (same as neutral start switch?)? - I've followed the linkage down to the transmission and don't see it.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[anonz]

Got frustrated and pulled what seemed to be the wiring for the range selector switch. Continuity was good. So I am down to the ignition switch and ???.

You guys have helpded a lot. The only thing that would make things a little more clear would be a way to jumper the safety circuit at it's source to ensure that the circuit/connections are not the issue.