TC35DA Wont start help

[dlctcg]

Glad the remote switch work around got you going for now...

I see that taking the dash apart is necessary to work on the switch can you find the relays on your tractor?
It could just be a bad relay or a wire popped off of the added in relay.

Unfortunately the relays are behind the left side console so probably not easy access with his cab on... They are also sort of accessible from the top after you remove the gauge cluster... but it is not easy & you need to work blind as you can not see the whole panel... basically its miserable to get to without taking the side console off...


The arrow on the pic below shows the corner of the relay panel from the top... so pretty inaccessible without removing the side console... (the other relays & fuse box you see are additions I did... so they won't be on your machine)

 

[mpilihp]

Good to hear it's usable, I see that taking the dash apart is necessary to work on the switch can you find the relays on your tractor?
It could just be a bad relay or a wire popped off of the added in relay.

Not sure where the relays are but I will dig into it when the weather gets better, I now have a way to start it for clearing snow.

 

[mpilihp]

Glad the remote switch work around got you going for now...


Unfortunately the relays are behind the left side console so probably not easy access with his cab on... They are also sort of accessible from the top after you remove the gauge cluster... but it is not easy & you need to work blind as you can not see the whole panel... basically its miserable to get to without taking the side console off...


The arrow on the pic below shows the corner of the relay panel from the top... so pretty inaccessible without removing the side console... (the other relays & fuse box you see are additions I did... so they won't be on your machine)

View attachment 732737

Thanks for the info, least I now know where they are. The cab design is a problem for sure. THey should make the lower frame of the front panel removeable somehow. I just may do that myself in the process of working on it this summer!

 

[dlctcg]

Thanks for the info, least I now know where they are. The cab design is a problem for sure. THey should make the lower frame of the front panel removeable somehow. I just may do that myself in the process of working on it this summer!

No problem...

Here is the layout of the relays (for when you get some nicer weather) from our TC40D... pretty sure yours is the same

 

[tmeric7]

I've often wondered that same question. Here is a picture of the starter on our TC33D if that could help someone describe what you do?View attachment 731904

But my question is on the starter I just see one LARGE red wire from the battery and one small red wire which I am assuming is the wire from the ignition switch to trigger the solenoid is that correct?

If you are looking at the center of thclimer's photo, no. The large red wire is +12V straight from the battery (and will be used to run the starter). The small red wire connected at that terminal with the red rubber boot is sending that +12V out through the firewall to (and powering) the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is moved to "start", the +12V is sent through the relays for the safety switches (neutral, pto, etc.). If all systems are go, that signal comes back to the starter through the same hole in the firewall and is connected to a post on the back side of the starter. This wire is usually purple or tan. theclimer's photo shows a wire going in the right direction (up, over, and behind on the right side), but I'm hesitant to say "that's the one" because it looks red to me. This wire to trigger the starter solenoid may also come in and around/underneath the starter. It may be hard to see, but that is where the +12V to "start tractor" comes in.

A common, and well-documented, problem is that the +12V signal goes through a lot of "stuff" between the terminal on the front side of the starter and the back side. There is a service bulletin on this, and the issue and fix is documented (among other places) on the sticky thread at the top of this board:

TC33D wont start

It is a 2004 TC33D with less than 300 hours. Here are the systems: Used the tractor Monday mowing using rear PTO no problems. Tried to start it Tuesday morning and it would not do anything. Checked to make sure all the safety switch levers are in place, and all seem to be ok. Went back later...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[thclimer]

If you are looking at the center of thclimer's photo, no. The large red wire is +12V straight from the battery (and will be used to run the starter). The small red wire connected at that terminal with the red rubber boot is sending that +12V out through the firewall to (and powering) the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is moved to "start", the +12V is sent through the relays for the safety switches (neutral, pto, etc.). If all systems are go, that signal comes back to the starter through the same hole in the firewall and is connected to a post on the back side of the starter. This wire is usually purple or tan. theclimer's photo shows a wire going in the right direction (up, over, and behind on the right side), but I'm hesitant to say "that's the one" because it looks red to me. This wire to trigger the starter solenoid may also come in and around/underneath the starter. It may be hard to see, but that is where the +12V to "start tractor" comes in.

A common, and well-documented, problem is that the +12V signal goes through a lot of "stuff" between the terminal on the front side of the starter and the back side. There is a service bulletin on this, and the issue and fix is documented (among other places) on the sticky thread at the top of this board:

TC33D wont start

It is a 2004 TC33D with less than 300 hours. Here are the systems: Used the tractor Monday mowing using rear PTO no problems. Tried to start it Tuesday morning and it would not do anything. Checked to make sure all the safety switch levers are in place, and all seem to be ok. Went back later...

www.tractorbynet.com

tmeric7 You are correct about the smaller red wire in my photo, it was an addition (not factory) just like you mention that there is a fix for the starting circuit to eliminate all the "stuff". That small red wire goes to an additional relay to supply 12 volts to the starter solenoid which eliminates the intermittent fuse blowing issue when starting.