TC40DA

[hazmat]

Here is a price data point: Dad paid $21,200 for his TC40DA (Hydro) w/ FEL, loaded tires & block heater in Nov 2004

Mid PTO ~$400
sun shade ~$200
Remotes ~$500
84" MMM ~$3K
6' Bush Hog ~$1K
Snow plow (loader mount) power ange ~$2,100 curtis plow
Auger $500

Total $28,400 +/-

Don't know how much a batwing turf mower costs, but I'd guess it is in excess of $5K

You may want to re-think how much "lawn" you want vs. "field". A field cut every 3-5 weeks can look pretty nice.

I've run both the RFM & MMM on my TC18. The MMM is easier on the neck, and much easier to negotiate around trees (see attached)

It doesn't take much time to remove & reinstall the MMM. 5 min off, 10-15 min on, depending on how often you do it.

I can mow 1 acre / hour with my 60" MMM and all my trees. You could probably do 1.25 acres/hour wide open with the 60" MMM. The TC40 can run a 84"MMM => 1.75 to 2 acres per hour (assuming you drive a little faster).

 

[Slippy]

My vote is zero turn and 10' pull rotary cutter for the rest. I pull a 10' with a 60 hp tractor and when grass gets high, it takes all the 60 to pull it. Sometimes have to move to 1st or 2nd gear, hills too. I have zero turn, and tc40d for around house. Don't forget the supersteer.

 

[DocHeb]

Do you really need a RFM and a Rotary Mower? I have 20 acres and get by with just a RFM. I spent some time pulling out the saplings some would "brush-hog" (pulling them out will eliminate 'punje sticks'), and thereafter used the RFM to cut the weeds and grass that grows.

 

[Crisswell]

Thanks again for the input.

Hazmat - Thanks for the pricing info! That helps alot, eventhough it's a year old. It gives me a yardstick to measure my deal against. As for the MMM, how tough is it to get to the blades? I know the attachment weighs hundreds of pounds and I haven't figured out how you get the blades on and off by yourself - at least without a lift?? I like to keep them sharp. You do have me thinking again, though.

As for the rfm vs rotary, I'd hate to be chewing up the RFM blades on rocks, roots, dirt, etc. They seem like different jobs to me. But I have no experience to base that on, however.

Andy

 

[IH3444]

For the MMM blades, first I would only consider one if I had a nice piece of level concrete to work on top off for install, and removal of mower deck. Second I would seriously consider building a set of sturdy ramps to drive the tractor onto, and scoot under the mid mower to remove the blades. Just my thoughts..... After another friend who also has NH described his experiences with installing his MMM, I personally wouldn't consider one unless it was going on for a long time, like years, and never comming off. I hope you experience with one are much more pleasant than his are. Happy Turkey Day!

 

[gregNH]

This is maybe a very strange post:
I agree with the others who said to buy a 2nd mower ( zero turn), but when you turn around the trees with it first it are only straight lines to mow so a manual 12*12 would be a good chose, it sounds strange but the modern 12*12... are +- as easy as a hydro only for loader work
I use a landini mistral 50 with cab for the price of my tc 45 da
the hydro was easier but a few hours with this transmission and it is a dream /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
but i don't know your needs (is it a lot of loader work or in narrow places or not ...?

 

[daTeacha]

I can't give you a dealer, but maybe a google search will at least let you find any relatively near you with a web site. Also, you could probably hit the NH site and find dealers within a given radius of your zip code.

With a tractor that size, I suspect any major dealer service will involve them coming to get the thing, which could be a serious expense if you've got some miles involved. Of course, if you have a big pickup, 5th wheel hitch and flatbed tandem trailer, then you can take it to them.

 

[hazmat]

I sharpen my blades twice per season (I have gator mulching blades that I run spring & Fall. Regulars in the middle of the summer.

My method is to remove the MMM from the tractor 5 minutes. Slide my carryall ($100 pallet fork on three point hitch) under the MMM. Lift it up & brace it with a couple jack stands. An air impact wrench makes taking the blades off easy as pie.

Before I got the carry all, once I flipped the deck over by hand - rolled it against a wall & heaved. That was hard on the back. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif After that I would chain it to the Front loader to flip over. The forks are much much easier. They have 101 uses as well... Got to get your new 200# table saw from the driveway to the walk-out basement (in the rear) - toss the box on the forks & drive it around /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif It was the best $100 I spent on the tractor.

For your TC40, I'd recommend getting pallet forks for the front loader ~$400 - You get to lift to full height /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[daTeacha]

Just off the top of my head without thinking it through, how handy would it be to have something like a 3 pt. adapter that fits the FEL arms? Seems a handy guy could almost make one himself. Have the top point movable vertically, and set up a channel to let the lower link attachment points slide L-R but at a permanent distance from a plate that attaches to the QA. You wouldn't need much more than something like an inverted T cut into a flat plate that fits the QA, would you?

Does anyone make such an item?

 

[DocHeb]

Skid Steer Solutions makes both a Hydrualic powered PTO QA/3PT adaptor, and a non-PTO adaptor.

The Hydraulic Powered PTO unit drive is sized for skidsteer volumes and pressures of hydrualic pump output, however.