TC45D or 2120w/HHS 4 dependability, reliability?
- Thread starter bigoar
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Thanks Jim. Its decieving looking at them side by side - I would'nt have thought they were esentially equal in gross weight.
Well this decision is only getting more difficult.
Any more opinions on what I've heard refered to as the "Hydro Lock" (not sticky pedel) while under load and it not "releasing" immediately. Is this typical and just a quirk the operator should adapt too by hitting the opposing pedel to stop it?
Lastly, opinion on stability or wheel base. I have some steep hills to cut and am concerned that the TC looks narrower from the rear. I read the threads about extra ballast etc.
Carl
Well this decision is only getting more difficult.
Any more opinions on what I've heard refered to as the "Hydro Lock" (not sticky pedel) while under load and it not "releasing" immediately. Is this typical and just a quirk the operator should adapt too by hitting the opposing pedel to stop it?
Lastly, opinion on stability or wheel base. I have some steep hills to cut and am concerned that the TC looks narrower from the rear. I read the threads about extra ballast etc.
Carl
markie61
Veteran Member
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- Mar 31, 2001
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- 1,362
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- Northern Virginia
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- 2019 Rural King RK55HC with Loader & Backhoe; 2001 New Holland TC40D with Loader
I've had my TC40D over a year and never had the HST pedal stick. As far a rear track width, the tires can be mounted in up to four different widths (this is true with most tractors). I have mine on the second widest and it is over 6ft wide. I understand the widest you can get them is 7 ft. However, there is nothing like ballast in the form of weights, filled rears, and/or implements. Regardless, get a tiltmeter to help you guage safety on hills. And, wear your seatbelt and keep the ROPS up.
Mark
Mark
Mark:
Thanks for responding and the safety advice. A few more questions for your consideration if you please.
Is your 6' an outside to outside of the R4's measurement?
At the dealer I measured 54 inches from center to center of the rear R4's. But if the 7' you mention is outside to outside of the tire, that would be plenty wide.
About the hydro situation ...... This is what I experienced... In low range/turtle against an immovable object I applied about 1/4 to 1/3 forward pedal. With great traction on asphalt, the tractor did what I expected - pushed hard! If I applied more or all the pedal I could either break traction or lug the engine to a stall. My concern is when traction was maintained and pushing and I left off the pedal completely, the tractor continued to push for about 3-5 seconds if I didnt tap the reverse pedal - lagging a bit. On occassion under the same senario when I left off the pedal sometime the pedal would continue to drawn down by itself before slowly letting up, taking 3-5 seconds. So I dont think this was like the "B" plate and nylon roller sticking situtation that I seen Jim provide correction suggestions for.
Any idea, or is this typical and something you encounter by hitting the opposing pedal? Or potientially a problem?
Also, what do you think about a price of $19,000 for a 2003 45D w/ 100 hrs, 16LA w/ quick detach bucket, R4's tires?
thanks again
Carl
Thanks for responding and the safety advice. A few more questions for your consideration if you please.
Is your 6' an outside to outside of the R4's measurement?
At the dealer I measured 54 inches from center to center of the rear R4's. But if the 7' you mention is outside to outside of the tire, that would be plenty wide.
About the hydro situation ...... This is what I experienced... In low range/turtle against an immovable object I applied about 1/4 to 1/3 forward pedal. With great traction on asphalt, the tractor did what I expected - pushed hard! If I applied more or all the pedal I could either break traction or lug the engine to a stall. My concern is when traction was maintained and pushing and I left off the pedal completely, the tractor continued to push for about 3-5 seconds if I didnt tap the reverse pedal - lagging a bit. On occassion under the same senario when I left off the pedal sometime the pedal would continue to drawn down by itself before slowly letting up, taking 3-5 seconds. So I dont think this was like the "B" plate and nylon roller sticking situtation that I seen Jim provide correction suggestions for.
Any idea, or is this typical and something you encounter by hitting the opposing pedal? Or potientially a problem?
Also, what do you think about a price of $19,000 for a 2003 45D w/ 100 hrs, 16LA w/ quick detach bucket, R4's tires?
thanks again
Carl
markie61
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2001
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- 1,362
- Location
- Northern Virginia
- Tractor
- 2019 Rural King RK55HC with Loader & Backhoe; 2001 New Holland TC40D with Loader
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is your 6' an outside to outside of the R4's measurement? )</font>
yes
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( But if the 7' you mention is outside to outside of the tire, that would be plenty wide. )</font>
Check with the dealer to be sure of this measurement.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( what do you think about a price of $19,000 for a 2003 45D w/ 100 hrs, 16LA w/ quick detach bucket, R4's tires? )</font>
Where can I pick it up!!?
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Any idea, or is this typical and something you encounter by hitting the opposing pedal? Or potientially a problem? )</font>
I dunno....but I haven't experienced this issue. However, I would try the same experiment on other NH's (or other brands for that matter) and see if it behaves differently. Failure to stop when you expected to has the potential for bad things to happen.
Mark
yes
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( But if the 7' you mention is outside to outside of the tire, that would be plenty wide. )</font>
Check with the dealer to be sure of this measurement.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( what do you think about a price of $19,000 for a 2003 45D w/ 100 hrs, 16LA w/ quick detach bucket, R4's tires? )</font>
Where can I pick it up!!?
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Any idea, or is this typical and something you encounter by hitting the opposing pedal? Or potientially a problem? )</font>
I dunno....but I haven't experienced this issue. However, I would try the same experiment on other NH's (or other brands for that matter) and see if it behaves differently. Failure to stop when you expected to has the potential for bad things to happen.
Mark
techinNY
Silver Member
I have a customer that went from a 1920 to aTC40D, basically from a gear transmission to a hydrostat. She likes the TC except for the hydro. Her problem is she is used to the gear trans being able to put more power to the ground and still maintain a higher speed. She complains the hydro does not have the power her gear tractor did, ie the hydro stalls out as you noticed. I told her she had to use a lower range so it would not stall out. Her answer was " it's too slow in a lower range". Other than that she has no complaints. And yes, the 2120 is a little more dependable due to it does not have all the bells and whistles, they are both good units!
JerryG
Super Member
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jinman
Rest in Peace
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- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
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- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( the tractor continued to push for about 3-5 seconds if I didnt tap the reverse pedal - lagging a bit. )</font>
Today, I decided to see how my tractor would react and pay close attention. I put my loader up against a large tree stump and the hydro in Range I & turtle. With the RPMs at 2,600, I found I could spin three tires easily with the pedal down only 1/4 or less. If I pushed the pedal 2/3 or more, the engine lugged and the RPMs dropped below 2000. When I lifted my foot, I noticed exactly the delay you described. If I never let the engine lug below 2,000 RPM, the pedal popped back to neutral as soon as I lifted my foot. I never got the pedal to advance without pressure, but I think I have experienced this in a different gear in the past.
Here is what I thought about my testing:
1. Why would I ever push down more on my pedal if my tires are already spinning?
2. If my engine is lugging down, I will NOT be able to push more by pushing down on the pedal because that is actually changing to a higher gear. I need to give the engine more fuel with the throttle instead of pressing the pedal.
3. All the sluggish pedal movement seemed to happen when the relief valve in the transmission had lifted. I actually felt a reduced resistance to forward pressure in the pedal at the point the engine would lug and the pedal become sluggish. Perhaps this is the feeling that the pedal has suddenly decided to self-depress.
4. If I back off my pedal or increase the throttle to keep my tractor in its designed power band, the transmission works just fine.
5.New Holland has allowed me to "get into trouble" by giving me the ability to easily move outside the tractor's best performance, and perhaps into an unsafe area. I think New Holland should take the owners safety into consideration and design a pedal return spring that will increase the return pressure in direct proportion to pedal position. The current spring seems to be just the opposite.
6. Be safe and think about what you are doing. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Today, I decided to see how my tractor would react and pay close attention. I put my loader up against a large tree stump and the hydro in Range I & turtle. With the RPMs at 2,600, I found I could spin three tires easily with the pedal down only 1/4 or less. If I pushed the pedal 2/3 or more, the engine lugged and the RPMs dropped below 2000. When I lifted my foot, I noticed exactly the delay you described. If I never let the engine lug below 2,000 RPM, the pedal popped back to neutral as soon as I lifted my foot. I never got the pedal to advance without pressure, but I think I have experienced this in a different gear in the past.
Here is what I thought about my testing:
1. Why would I ever push down more on my pedal if my tires are already spinning?
2. If my engine is lugging down, I will NOT be able to push more by pushing down on the pedal because that is actually changing to a higher gear. I need to give the engine more fuel with the throttle instead of pressing the pedal.
3. All the sluggish pedal movement seemed to happen when the relief valve in the transmission had lifted. I actually felt a reduced resistance to forward pressure in the pedal at the point the engine would lug and the pedal become sluggish. Perhaps this is the feeling that the pedal has suddenly decided to self-depress.
4. If I back off my pedal or increase the throttle to keep my tractor in its designed power band, the transmission works just fine.
5.New Holland has allowed me to "get into trouble" by giving me the ability to easily move outside the tractor's best performance, and perhaps into an unsafe area. I think New Holland should take the owners safety into consideration and design a pedal return spring that will increase the return pressure in direct proportion to pedal position. The current spring seems to be just the opposite.
6. Be safe and think about what you are doing. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Seems as though your experiment yeilded basicly the same results as mine and it taught me that the operator must not confuse the throttle with the foot peddle.
The only other senario my test included was being on "footing" (asphalt) where the tractor did NOT break traction or begin to lug when the peddle was depressed about 1/4.... It was in this situtation I experienced the peddle self depressing (or at least the sense that it was) and lagging when I let off of it. Under this situation I tested further by continuing to slowly depress the peddle until either traction broke or the engine lugged - which is what I expected to happen or else I would wonder about the extent to which the hydro was transferring power to the ground.
Sounds like the lady w/ the TC40D just may have some operator adjustments to make herself coming off a gear 1920. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Either way its good advice........ to "think about what you doing" and know how your machine will respond under different "loads".
Thanks for performing the test and sharing the results. Sounds like you know your tractor very well!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Carl
The only other senario my test included was being on "footing" (asphalt) where the tractor did NOT break traction or begin to lug when the peddle was depressed about 1/4.... It was in this situtation I experienced the peddle self depressing (or at least the sense that it was) and lagging when I let off of it. Under this situation I tested further by continuing to slowly depress the peddle until either traction broke or the engine lugged - which is what I expected to happen or else I would wonder about the extent to which the hydro was transferring power to the ground.
Sounds like the lady w/ the TC40D just may have some operator adjustments to make herself coming off a gear 1920. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Either way its good advice........ to "think about what you doing" and know how your machine will respond under different "loads".
Thanks for performing the test and sharing the results. Sounds like you know your tractor very well!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Carl
