barbqranch
Silver Member
I also run between 2000 and 2500 rpm for everything except using the post hole auger, which I put it at idle.
tc45d will not move forward
- Thread starter tc45larson
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Carykong - I wasn't the one running a brush hog at the time. I had just been using the bucket although at the time the problem occurred I was just moving the tractor from one place to another. I will definitely bump the RPM's from now on. That's probably what is causing my problem. I guess I'm just being too conservative with the power.
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tc45larson
New member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2010
- Messages
- 3
after letting it set a few days and topping off the fluid levels I now can not get the range lever into high or low. It just grinds. The 3 point system works just fine. It is sounding more expensive to fix all the time. Any ideas?
jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 20,387
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
Yes! I really think you need to take my previous advice and look at the bracket on the end of the "B-plate" mechanism. What seems to have happened is this bracket is broken and your pedal movement is not being sent to the transmission. The transmission is not completely in the neutral position, but since the bracket is broken, the pedal centering mechanism can't return the transmission to neutral. Therefore, when you try to shift the range lever to I or II, it grinds because the HST is actually slowly turning.
I would tell you how to bypass the range safety switch so you could put the tractor in gear and start it that way, but it would probably take off. :shocked: If you got hurt or killed, I'd be sued by your relatives. :thumbdown:
Seriously, you need to check that the pedal movement is being transferred all the way into the transmission. It could be something broken in the transmission, but I had my "B-plate" break early on when I owned my tractor and it acted just like you are describing. The fact that you can't shift the Range lever is additional proof that the transmission is turning without any input control. Please, prove me wrong and I'll be happy to say I made a mistake, but also please don't hurt yourself. Be safe and check this out.
Here is a picture of mine broken. The bracket is shown at reference 1a, and you can see the broken weld at 1c and 1b.
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msel1969
New member
I'm having a similar issue with my TC40D. My hydrostat has seemed to lose power over time (just over 1000hrs on the tractor). I have some fairly steep hills that I brush hog occasionally and I'm hesitant to even try them now because the tractor will stall out when trying to climb them when in Low range (I) on the "turtle" setting. (~2500RPM on the engine). I noticed today when mowing that when in "turtle" on the Hydrostat and I in the gear Range that if I switched to rabbit the tractor would "Stutter" briefly until the speed smoothed out. At first I thought the stuttering was just bumpy ground but whenever I change from Turtle to Rabbit I feel this happen. I'm thinking this sounds like a weak relief valve but figured I'd throw this question out there for others who may have experienced a loss in hydrostat power over time. And as an FYI I have a friend that is having the exact same problem with his TC40D (I test drove it and it has the exact symptoms)
TO_Bud
Silver Member
msel have you checked that input shaft that Jinman describes above? That shaft is somewhat of a problem on these TC tractors. If the weld is cracked or broken you are only getting partial if any input from your pedals. Its hard to see the area in question but you need to check it out.
msel1969
New member
I have not checked it, but even when barely pressing on the pedal the tractor is definately trying to drive but is doesnt have enough umph to climb a moderate hill. On flat ground it seems to be ok.
