TC55DA First Year Experience

BadDog · Jun 8, 2005

After the reminder to RTFM (Read The F*ing Manual), I found that NH does in fact specify ballast amounts. Note that even without RTFM, I had the rear tires filled w/ CaCl solution on day one. Looking at the manual, this translates to approx. 800lbs of ballast, as I use industrial tires. The new wheel weights will add another 420lbs, giving me around 1200lbs of ballast centered around the rear axle.

I notice NH recommends either liquid ballast or wheel weights and 3pt hitch mounted counterweights on one page, and on a different page they say that rear wheel weights can be used in combination with liquid ballast. So much for the manual... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Some fun facts: the heaviest heavy duty NH bucket weighs in at 414lbs and can hold 17.3 cu. ft.. My 73" Bradco grapple bucket weighs 700lbs and doesn't provide a number for cu. ft., but we can assume it will hold less than the NH bucket, since it has much lower sidewalls.

None of this really matters: let's consider that I am 'using the loader to its potential', as I taught my dealer to be positive vs. curse at his equipment-abusing customers. Lift capacity is 2500lbs. I'll assume I'm carrying that much (note there were a lot of boulders I had to slide around as I could *not* lift them). What the heck did he think I bought the tractor for anyway? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

NH says that I need to counterweight so that 30% of the total weight is on the rear wheels. I figure I had 800lbs before the wheel weights. The lift capacity is 2500lbs, so I was certainly over 30% of that weight already. Now I'm moving to nearly 50% of the lift capacity with 1200lbs of counterweight, which far exceeds what is in the manual.

30% certainly didn't 'cut it', as I was easily able to lift the rear tires off the ground with a 'lifted load' before. Let's see what 50% will do. I hope it doesn't put too much stress somewhere else; I certainly don't intend to be any less demanding of the tractor, now; especially after the recommended NH solution was to 'spend more money'.

My next option is to sell the damned thing and spend some bigger bucks on yellow iron. Think Caterpillar, guys.

froggy · Jun 8, 2005

"My next option is to sell the damned thing and spend some bigger bucks on yellow iron. Think Caterpillar, guys."

Unless I'm mistaken, why not just look at Massey instead, since they are essentially the same tractor but without the "CAT markup"?

hazmat · Jun 8, 2005

NH says that I need to counterweight so that 30% of the total weight is on the rear wheels. 

If I remember right, it was not very clear in my manual, but what they mean is that with a load in the bucket, your rear axle should be carrying at least 30% of the weight. Not exactly easy to check, unless you are friendly with a state trooper who runs the portable truck scales... or live next to a weigh station.

You can make a SWAG (scientific wild guess) - bare tractor is X rear, Y front, FEL adds A to front, Ballast adds B to rear (note wieght aft of the tractor counts as 1.5X weight added to the rear wheels)... you get the idea. To be real accurate you'd have to figure out where the center of gravity is for the weight you are adding - Tractor, Loader, and Ballast.

If you are entertaining the idea of a caterpillar, it is possible that you are using your TC55 beyond it's capabilities. A TC55 + Loader + Ballast =~6,000#. A Cat backhoe is 15,000-25,000# /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

BadDog · Jun 8, 2005

I just priced out a Cat backhoe, on the lot at $80K. Other 'construction-grade' equipment seems to be similarly priced; neighbor just bought a JD-310. I think I'll keep the 55. With all the implements I have, total cost has been around $50K, and I like the blue color better than yellow. I'll just have to resolve to take smaller bites, and accept that I'll continue to pay NH more $ for my mistakes. No pay, no play.

I'm sure I would find a way to push yellow equipment beyond its limits as well. Seems I need an attitude adjustment if I'm going to remain friends with my 55; live and learn. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

hazmat · Jun 8, 2005

You could spend a couple grand to rent some large equipment (excavator?) to handle the bigger jobs, then finish up with the 55...

chatcher · Jun 8, 2005

( ...note wieght aft of the tractor counts as 1.5X weight added to the rear wheels...)

That's an important point, because weight behind the rear axle not only adds weight to the rear axle, it also removes it from the front axle. While adding weights or ballast to the rear wheels may improve traction and stability (especially by preventing tipping forward), it will not remove one ounce of weight from the front axle or front (steering) wheels. A ballast box, backhoe, or other heavy rear implement WILL.

jinman · Jun 8, 2005

( Lift capacity is 2500lbs. I'll assume I'm carrying that much (note there were a lot of boulders I had to slide around as I could *not* lift them). )

That 2,500 lb lift capacity doesn't account for breakout force that is much higher and is also felt by the front axle. Maybe the new one will hold up better. Hope so.

DieselMonk · Jun 17, 2005

I am sorry to read that you had some troubles with your TC55DA. Well, I have mine now 9 months and I put 100 hours on it. I gave her the mixed bag with working everything from blowing 5ft high snow with my 78" blower 1 mile of driveway (one way), logging some wood, clearing land, helping me build my new house, spread 200 T of gravel, cleaning ditches and more /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif. Never had any warrany repair done to mine. My Laurin cab had 2 warranty jobs done on the whipers front and back (poor job at the assembly I woud say) /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif. I am happy with my buy and don't regret a thing. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Enjoy!

BadDog · Jun 21, 2005

My 55 is back in action; the new front-end works as it should, and the wheel weights (and 600lb blade on the 3 point) make a BIG difference, when added to the already CaCl-filled rear tires. I can now pick up the biggest boulders I can get my grapple around without feeling the rear end lift off the ground, and I can even move them about in 2WD, although it's a heck of a lot easier in 4WD.

The dealer and NH were pretty good about it in retrospect; he told me I wouldn't get the 55 back until the end of July. NH paid him to install a new FE off of one of his existing stock, and I was not charged a penny for labor, delivery, or anything else related to the FE, plus I got it back in mid-June.

Having the tractor in the shop allowed the dealer time to replace my cracked rear fender, install the wheel weights, and do a full 300hr service on the thing. The dealer did all this and only charged me $54 labor on top of the parts cost. I figure that evens us up pretty good. I give them my full recommendation, and they will get future business from me. Too bad for them I bought another tractor while waiting (a new Wheelhorse Classic GT for my wife to use for mowing and dragging her riding ring), but it *could* have easily been a new baby boomer.

I still don't think the FE should have failed, especially since I was counterweighted with CaCl. However, they fixed it right, for free, ahead of schedule, and the dealer didn't try to stiff me for anything in the process.

I've just finished cutting out about 800 ft of roadway with the new blade, and the 55 was perfect. The Gill blade is worth every penny. On to spreading gravel, more fencing, and more land clearing.... ....and hopefully no more long-term visits to the sick tractor hospital.