Teach me how to drive a power shuttle.

Ramses · Apr 20, 2016

I just ordered a Kubota M7060 with the 12x12 hydraulic shuttle to replace my John Deere 3520. I have always had smaller tractors with hydrostatic transmissions so the new Kubota will be quite a change. I have driven a JD 5075e with a power reverser transmission around the dealers lot so I get the general idea of using the lever to perform clutchless shifts from forward to reverse. My question is what are the best practices for operating this transmission. This may seem like a silly question, but for the upper gears when starting from a stop do you run up through the gears like you would in a manual transmission car or can you start in 5th or 6th gear in high range by feathering the clutch? Do you need to use the clutch to shift between gears within a range or only when changing the range? Do you need to be at a standstill when shifting between ranges? Sorry for all these questions but I want to start out right with this new tractor and not have to learn from trial and error.

I am moving up to this tractor to take over farming hay on a 30 acre field that I own down the road. I have leased the field to a local farmer for the past 7-8 years but he is 81 and informed me that he is retiring. He will let me use all his haying equipment but his tractor is pretty beat. My neighbors around me buy the hay for their livestock and would really like someone to continue the operation. The farmer lives about 2 miles from me and will help me the first year to learn the ropes.

DT86 · Apr 20, 2016

I have a M9540 12x12 hydro shuttle.

You can start in any gear it will pull itself in. I probably wouldn't start in H 5-6 though. I usually start in H 3-4.

You can clutch between gears but you don't have to. Usually, if using the foot pedal, I just throttle down, flick the reverser in neutral, grab another gear (up or down), flick back into forward and throttle back up. Same is true if traveling in reverse. There is a slight delay this way vs using the clutch, if I'm on the road rowing through the gears I use the clutch pedal.

Full stop between ranges as they are not synchronized.

Nice tractor btw, post lots of pics!

Ramses · Apr 20, 2016

Thanks alot for the info DT86. I am very excited to get the tractor but will have to wait for a few weeks for it to be delivered. The dealer told me 2 weeks when I ordered it on Monday but being ever the pessimist, I assume I won't see it for 4+ weeks. Hopefully I will be pleasantly surprised!

I assume that you use the foot throttle for loader work but throttle up with the console throttle when using PTO implements, let me know if I am wrong.

By the way, what grapple do you have, I am shopping for one now for my larger tractor.

gwdixon · Apr 20, 2016

Ramses said:
Thanks alot for the info DT86. I am very excited to get the tractor but will have to wait for a few weeks for it to be delivered. The dealer told me 2 weeks when I ordered it on Monday but being ever the pessimist, I assume I won't see it for 4+ weeks. Hopefully I will be pleasantly surprised!

I assume that you use the foot throttle for loader work but throttle up with the console throttle when using PTO implements, let me know if I am wrong.

By the way, what grapple do you have, I am shopping for one now for my larger tractor.

The RPM required for PTO functioning (2500 to 2800 RPM) does not work very well for shuttle shifting from F to R. The results are rather abrupt and violent. It is easy enough to manually use the clutch pedal and feather the clutch in and out.

Also, parking the tractor in the barn or an enclosure is not easy using just the shuttle. If you happen to have, or get, a forklift attachment (or grapple) then the shuttle shift is useless. Hooking up implements needs to be done with the manual clutch. In other words, it is not made for delicate work.

For my needs, the shuttle shift is rarely used.

DT86 · Apr 20, 2016

For loader work I'll usually set the hand throttle up around 900-1000 rpm and use the pedal for an extra burst of power if needed and for traveling between dig and dump site. Setting at 1000 improves speed opening and closing the grapple and seems to be a nice balance between not stalling out and too fast when digging.

I went with a C.I.D. Attachments extreme 84" root grapple. It is very strong built. I do sometimes wish I'd went a size or two smaller.

No matter what grapple you get check that it fits tight on the quick attach. Mine was a bit sloppy and the QA was bent a bit as a result. After straightening the QA I ended up adding a 1/4" shim on the top mounting points of the grapple to make it fit more snug.

Ramses · Apr 20, 2016

Thanks gwdixon, that makes sense. I will be using for a variety of tasks around the homestead including PTO implements, loader work and grading. I will have to experiment to see what combination of techniques work best for each task.

Ramses · Apr 20, 2016

I have been looking at the Everything Attachments Wicked Grapple and am still trying to decide between the 55 or 73 inch version. Thanks for the tip about fitting tightly. I will be sure to check whichever grapple I get closely for fit.

DT86 · Apr 20, 2016

I agree with gwdixon that it is not well suited for delicate work, like hooking implements or maneuvering in close quarters.

For loader work, it can't be beat.

Are you putting up round or square bales?

Ramses · Apr 20, 2016

4x5 round bales.

If the JD 457 baler that I will be borrowing this year works well with my tractor, I will likely buy it from the retiring farmer.

He also has a New Holland 848 but it needs a few repairs to be in working order.