Grading Teeth Virsus Blade

[Whitey]

I am going to remove about 4" - 6" of packed material from my irregular shaped driveway this summer and replace it with limestone. My question is......I am torn between buying a tooth bar for my 60" FEL or a 60" RB or a 60" BB for the removal. Price being a factor along with the future usage of the equipment. Backblading with a tooth bar to loosen up the material seems like the logical choice, low price along with future usage. I just don't think I would use a RB or BB as much as a tooth bar. Anyone out there care to weigh in???

JD 770 / 70 FEL / 7 BH - 425 AWS / 54" MMM / 54" FMP

 

[RFB]

You are right...but.

Yes, you will get much more use out of the toothbar.

The project you are looking at is much more conducive to a box blade and rippers.

 

[crashz]

I'm in a similar dilema. The problem is that the 770's are not really the best for digging and heavy loader work due to the gear transmission. Low range is low enough to dig and scoop, but then transport speed is way to slow. High range is just to high to did with. The light model 70 loader is good for loose material but really can't handle the hard stuff.

If I were you, I would loosen the material with your backhoe. Thats designed for the heavy digging, then smooth the loose material with the loader. If you have a long driveway, this could mean some serious seat time.

If I had a backhoe for mine, I wouldn't be shopping for a new tractor. But adding to the fact that I need a better digging machine is that I have some serious brush hogging to do to.

 

[Westendorf-RR]

I am going to remove about 4" - 6" of packed material from my irregular shaped driveway this summer and replace it with limestone. My question is......I am torn between buying a tooth bar for my 60" FEL or a 60" RB or a 60" BB for the removal. Price being a factor along with the future usage of the equipment. Backblading with a tooth bar to loosen up the material seems like the logical choice, low price along with future usage. I just don't think I would use a RB or BB as much as a tooth bar. Anyone out there care to weigh in???

JD 770 / 70 FEL / 7 BH - 425 AWS / 54" MMM / 54" FMP

Be careful Backblading in this position. It can be "very" tough on any loader's bucket cylinders. With the rams fully extended they are exposed and are at a vunerable position. Down pressure from the lift cylinder's can bend the bucket cylinder rams.

I'd agree with RFB - a box blade and ripper may be more efficient depending on the lengh of the drive.

 

[Beavis]

My vote would be for a box blade; it will definitely do the job you have described and will continue to come in useful for other tasks. I have not purchased a toothbar yet, but even with a toothbar, I'm not sure we have enough tractor for big jobs with it.

Good luck.

 

[radman1]

For the task you describe, go with the box blade. The scarifers will tear up the road much quicker and will be easier on you equipment. Even the scarifers will have some serious difficulty with the hard packed road. Tear it up, box blade it into a pile and move it with the FEL if needed. If the materiall is loose after ripping it with the box blade, the FEL should be able to move it much easier. Tooth bar just isn't going to work well and will be hard on your loader, for digging up hard packed road. The boxblade for most people will have more uses in the future and makes a great counter weight on the back for loader work. A regular rear blade won't help much at all with this project.

 

[EdC]

As much as I like my toothbar go for the box blade. I tried to use a rear blade with my FEL and toothbar last year and it is slow going.

 

[RalphVa]

I did forward blading with the toothbar fully down in digging up an area for a rain garden. It tears up the dirt and digs rocks pretty well. I've seen similar toothbars on rear scoops that can be run in the down position to do this, too. Think the back blade on the 3ph is only useful for smoothing. Back blading, too, without the toothbar on the FEL, can be used for smoothing.

Ralph

 

[teg]

I'm curious about; "...remove about 4"-6" of packed material..." Why would you not just add Limestone on top of what sounds like a good road bed? Only asking since my road is rough with large and small stones packed pretty good but still is a rough ride. I was thinking about adding a top coat. Why would you remove this material?

 

[Whitey]

Thanks everyone for your experiences and opinions! This is why this site is so great! I never even considered the "Danger Zone" for my FEL cylinders I am thankful for that post. It looks as if the BB (boxblade) has won out. I forgot to mention that my wife will be doing this so the easier the better. I think that after it's initial useage the box blade may be forced into other projects. Give my wife enough time and she may reconfigure the entire property.

Thanx To All!

JD 770 / 70 FEL / 7 BH / BB pending - 425 AWS / 54" MMM / 54" FMP

 

[Whitey]

In reply to teg.......my driveway is sort of rectangular in shape. The length is about 125' in length and about 80' wide. The southern length is split between 1/3 against grass, 1/3 increase in elevation up to my shop and 1/3 decrease in elevation to my temporary garade. (New one next year) This entire driveway is located below my house which is at the base of a large ag field. Water collects and turns dirt into mud. I want to eliminate this mess for right now by removing 4" - 6" material and place free draining limestone for now untill I put a new garage in next year and concrete the entire area. Long term plan short term fix. Happy wife happy life.

 

[Whitey]

By the way teg....if your drive way is rough you may be experiencing the sub-base pumping. If your base pumps you need to remove that material and replace it with a more suitable mix. In my area we have sand and gravel ( glacial eskers everywhere) and it compacts like a champ. We bought this place even though it had not been lived in for over five years (potential) and the previous owners mowed the driveway. Since we have been here grass has been replaced with ground dirt thus turnith mud. One more point in our area there are various sizes of limestone. 2B limestone is generally washed without fines therefore does not compact as readily as 2A which has fines and compacts tighter than a bull's............which is what I will use for now and then reclaim it when I backfill my foundation and do my slab.

 

[teg]

Actually, the road is very solid (and dry) but it has 3" and 4" rock with some smaller smaller rocks holding everything in place. I was thinking of putting down crusher run to smooth it out but since the road "works"... money will be spent on a cabin by the creek instead.

 

[RFB]

Whitey,

The best method to eliminate the hydraulic pumping you mentioned is to add one more step to your process. After you remove the organic material, install geotextile fabric and then lay the aggregate on top of that. You will no longer see the pumping or the rock sinking.