Telescoping stabilizer repair

[npalen]

I have noticed on my adjustable stabilizers that they seem to have a bit of a spring built into them.
What I do if an implements sway is bothering me, is to unpin both sides, get the implement were I want it and
put a pin in then push it back and forth and if needed I'll repin the first side then go around and push the implement to the
max travel and then pin that side, very little sway after that.

This is what I've found with the telescoping type also. All telescoping stabilizers may not be created equal, however. I built a set for my Kubota as well as the Mahindra and spent some time laying them out in CAD so there we no "dead spots" in the adjustment hole spacing.

It's a matter of spacing the holes such that there is no more than, say, 1/16" distance from where the pin will drop into one of the hole locations. Then, as mentioned above, go around to the other side and swing the implement back and forth to find the hole where the pin drops in to take out all the swing. This will put both links under load.

The key to not wearing out the pin holes is to double the thickness top and bottom. An 1/8" thickness, for example, for the pin to bear against, isn't going to last long before the hole(s) start egg shaping. Also, the larger the pin diameter the better while realizing there are design constraints due to space limitations.

 

[LD1]

This is what I've found with the telescoping type also. All telescoping stabilizers may not be created equal, however. I built a set for my Kubota as well as the Mahindra and spent some time laying them out in CAD so there we no "dead spots" in the adjustment hole spacing.

It's a matter of spacing the holes such that there is no more than, say, 1/16" distance from where the pin will drop into one of the hole locations. Then, as mentioned above, go around to the other side and swing the implement back and forth to find the hole where the pin drops in to take out all the swing. This will put both links under load.

The key to not wearing out the pin holes is to double the thickness top and bottom. An 1/8" thickness, for example, for the pin to bear against, isn't going to last long before the hole(s) start egg shaping. Also, the larger the pin diameter the better while realizing there are design constraints due to space limitations.

That's how I would set mine up too.

Center implement, find a hole on one side....go to the other side and pull tight.

Sometimes I would even have a drift punch to help align up a good tight hole

But it's apparent that most people can just tolerate an inch or so of slop.

That's fine....I did that for 4 years and never had an issue. But has always been something I wanted changed.

Blading isn't a big deal....but as I said...I mow 400 or so acres a year. And having a 1600# cutter back there....even the little inch or two movement and feeling it bang (sometimes hard if I am turning fast) can't be a good thing

I solved my problem.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I have several 1000# implements that I used behind my old L3010 with the turnbuckles adjusted for zero play. After breaking 3 of them, I complained to the dealer. They told me I was adjusting them wrong and I should leave about an inch of side to side play. They said it was in the manual although I could never find it. Keeping them loose did solve the problem.

So far, I haven't had any issues with the telescoping links on my MX5800 and L6060 tractors when using the same heavy implements. If I need to work an implement with zero side to side movement, I use a nylon ratchet strap which absorbs the shock load.

 

[LD1]

I have several 1000# implements that I used behind my old L3010 with the turnbuckles adjusted for zero play. After breaking 3 of them, I complained to the dealer. They told me I was adjusting them wrong and I should leave about an inch of side to side play. They said it was in the manual although I could never find it. Keeping them loose did solve the problem.

So far, I haven't had any issues with the telescoping links on my MX5800 and L6060 tractors when using the same heavy implements. If I need to work an implement with zero side to side movement, I use a nylon ratchet strap which absorbs the shock load.

What broke? The implements or the turnbuckles.

My old L3400 had turnbuckles. I used an 1100lb cutter and a 700lb rear blade and always had zero play. Never any issues. And I mowed ~250-300 acres a year with that cutter for 4 or 5 years before I upgraded to the MX.

I dont like a "little" play. A 1600lb cutter with an inch head start before a sudden stop is hard of the stabilizers.

Going from my old L3400 with turnbuckles to the MX with telescoping stabilizers that left a little slop was like going from towing with a ball hitch to a pintle hitch.

 

[npalen]

I have several 1000# implements that I used behind my old L3010 with the turnbuckles adjusted for zero play. After breaking 3 of them, I complained to the dealer. They told me I was adjusting them wrong and I should leave about an inch of side to side play. They said it was in the manual although I could never find it. Keeping them loose did solve the problem.

So far, I haven't had any issues with the telescoping links on my MX5800 and L6060 tractors when using the same heavy implements. If I need to work an implement with zero side to side movement, I use a nylon ratchet strap which absorbs the shock load.

The nylon strap sounds like the best of both worlds with its shock absorbing ability while constraining when necessary.

Edit: Makes me wonder if anyone has tried using automotive shock absorbers in lieu of telescoping or turnbuckle links for controlling side sway. Seems like keeping the implement centered while absorbing shocks would have some merit. Some means of keeping the implement centered would still be needed, however.

Just throwing this thought out there for discussion of its merits both pro and con. I enjoy these threads and hearing other's thoughts. Yes, I have too much time on my hands.

 

[bdhsfz6]

What broke? The implements or the turnbuckles.

My old L3400 had turnbuckles. I used an 1100lb cutter and a 700lb rear blade and always had zero play. Never any issues. And I mowed ~250-300 acres a year with that cutter for 4 or 5 years before I upgraded to the MX.

I dont like a "little" play. A 1600lb cutter with an inch head start before a sudden stop is hard of the stabilizers.

Going from my old L3400 with turnbuckles to the MX with telescoping stabilizers that left a little slop was like going from towing with a ball hitch to a pintle hitch.

Turnbuckles.

 

[npalen]

Boy this could go in about a dozen forums. General repair, Kubota, welding, projects, snow removal, etc but here I guess will do.

My bota MX has the telescoping stabilizers. The old L3400 had the turnbuckles.

I know everyone raves about the telescoping ones. But I haven't liked them since day one. Seems there is never a hole that's just quite right and I still end up with an inch or two of slop at the implement.

For most people, probably not a problem using a 500 pound mower or a 350 pound blade. But I use my equipment and have heavy implements. A 1250# blade and a 1600# cutter...an inch or two of movement is alot of inertia. And things continue to get sloppier and more worn.

Well I was out plowing....and with an angled blade does put alot of stress on the stabilizers. Well when I got home....I had half of one hanging on the right side. No idea where the other half is. So....time for a fix.....and to address the slop with infinite adjustment.

I had my old toplink hanging on the wall since I made my hydraulic one. Time to sacrifice it.

After taking some careful measurements....started cutting and welding.

Was a fun 2hr shop project.

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Nice work on repurposing the lift link! Looks very solid and useful especially in conjunction with the quick hitch.