OP
SamWalton
Platinum Member
We finished the last footing, made two pads with rebar and a ramp to get over the footing at the front door.
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Terra-Dome Earth Shelter Build
- Thread starter SamWalton
- Start date
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Sam:
I have been following your home construction for some time now. Your experiences, and large photos, have greatly helped me with my planning. Thank-you.
What about covering the difficult roof areas with the peel and stick Meadows foundation waterproofing? There are others, but Meadows is well known.
W. R. MEADOWS, INC. Construction Products
The Terra Dome home provides the opportunity for the use of the PERSIST wall system. At your stage of construction, it would be easy to implement this easy system. Developed in Alaska, it is a high performance system that functions across America. Later refined as the REMOTE system, in an effort to save costs, the principals are the same. What makes these systems different from what I´ve seen Terra Dome owners do in the past is the specific manner the layers are applied, and the attention to the details around windows and doors.
Here are the steps:
1) The concrete wall is covered with a peel-and-stick rubberized membrane like Grace Ice & Water Shield. Because there are no overhangs at the eaves and rakes, the membrane can be folded down at the roof edges onto the walls.
2) The walls are then covered with at least two layers of rigid foam. The thickness of the foam varies depending on climate; while 2 inches of foam might be adequate in Florida, Alaskan builders are likely to install at least 6 or 8 inches of foam. Successive layers of foam should have staggered joints. The foam is mechanically attached to the sheathing.
3) Vertical 1x3 or 1x4 strapping is installed on the walls to create a rainscreen, and
4) Siding is installed over the strapping.
This system has been proven successful in Canada and Alaska. If it works there, Oklahoma is easy. Because it is so moisture resistant, it is perfect for use in high humidity areas. But then, so much of the Alaskan population lives where it rains most of the summer. The rain screen siding works like a champ. Alaskans do know a thing or two about harsh weather.
The PERSIST system is perfect for concrete wall application. It is what I intend to use with the exposed walls of my earth sheltered home on Beaver Lake, to the NE of where you are. Heck, I drive close to your place along I-40 on every trip to NW Arkansas.
Welcome To Home Energy Magazine Online
http://www.cchrc.org/docs/best_practices/REMOTE_Manual.pdf
Have a look at pages 16 thru 20 of this PDF. The Inset window and door details. I know that Oklahoma can have severe rainstorm events.
By following this simple system you will find that your already energy efficient home becomes super energy efficient as it will be air tight.
There are a number of other easy, and inexpensive, options you may wish to consider. Options that will make a difference in the durability and energy efficiency of your home.
Here are the steps:
1) The concrete wall is covered with a peel-and-stick rubberized membrane like Grace Ice & Water Shield. Because there are no overhangs at the eaves and rakes, the membrane can be folded down at the roof edges onto the walls.
2) The walls are then covered with at least two layers of rigid foam. The thickness of the foam varies depending on climate; while 2 inches of foam might be adequate in Florida, Alaskan builders are likely to install at least 6 or 8 inches of foam. Successive layers of foam should have staggered joints. The foam is mechanically attached to the sheathing.
3) Vertical 1x3 or 1x4 strapping is installed on the walls to create a rainscreen, and
4) Siding is installed over the strapping.
This system has been proven successful in Canada and Alaska. If it works there, Oklahoma is easy. Because it is so moisture resistant, it is perfect for use in high humidity areas. But then, so much of the Alaskan population lives where it rains most of the summer. The rain screen siding works like a champ. Alaskans do know a thing or two about harsh weather.
The PERSIST system is perfect for concrete wall application. It is what I intend to use with the exposed walls of my earth sheltered home on Beaver Lake, to the NE of where you are. Heck, I drive close to your place along I-40 on every trip to NW Arkansas.
Welcome To Home Energy Magazine Online
http://www.cchrc.org/docs/best_practices/REMOTE_Manual.pdf
Have a look at pages 16 thru 20 of this PDF. The Inset window and door details. I know that Oklahoma can have severe rainstorm events.
By following this simple system you will find that your already energy efficient home becomes super energy efficient as it will be air tight.
There are a number of other easy, and inexpensive, options you may wish to consider. Options that will make a difference in the durability and energy efficiency of your home.
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OP
SamWalton
Platinum Member
Thanks for the help. I am holding off on the leaks for now. I am focused on the under slab utilities. I am going to stay away from the EPRO products. A few pics to get ou up to date.
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forgeblast
Elite Member
Sam whats your time frame now? how long do you figure until move in conditon?
OP
SamWalton
Platinum Member
We are moving foward and don't have a schedule but we hope to get in soon.
tony Cecil
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2010
- Messages
- 291
Sam
I have enjoyed your project, and just wanted to comment on the leaking problems...I have found that you have to embed a fabric (like fiberglass) sort of like a bandage gauze in the sealant to give it some support....It can be a little messy, but if you are careful, sort of paint the sealant on, then embed the fabric (can use a stiff paintbrush) put some more sealant on and repeat, until you are satisfied.....If the cement meets a vertical surface, lip the same membrane up the side for a few inches, and repeat that process at least twice......To be clear, apply sealant, then embed membrane, apply sealant and apply membrane.....I know this is a disappointment to have to do, but if you don`t then this problem will re occur .....For some reason the application of say just hot tar or something good and thick just won`t hold up over time.....Your friend in Maine has already put the dirt (sandy) on his roof, but this will still need to be done...The condensation is another problem, so I sure hope what I said helps Tony
I have enjoyed your project, and just wanted to comment on the leaking problems...I have found that you have to embed a fabric (like fiberglass) sort of like a bandage gauze in the sealant to give it some support....It can be a little messy, but if you are careful, sort of paint the sealant on, then embed the fabric (can use a stiff paintbrush) put some more sealant on and repeat, until you are satisfied.....If the cement meets a vertical surface, lip the same membrane up the side for a few inches, and repeat that process at least twice......To be clear, apply sealant, then embed membrane, apply sealant and apply membrane.....I know this is a disappointment to have to do, but if you don`t then this problem will re occur .....For some reason the application of say just hot tar or something good and thick just won`t hold up over time.....Your friend in Maine has already put the dirt (sandy) on his roof, but this will still need to be done...The condensation is another problem, so I sure hope what I said helps Tony
Hi Sam and other folk, Steve in Maine here.
As I mentioned previously, we have added perimeter drains on the roof two ways: the front of the shop leaked, we put a drain tube buried at roof level. We also added drains around the edges *above* the foam insulation board (because it holds the water). We had ponds up there last winter. The crew also put a bunch of clay-sand mix up on the roof (maybe 15 yards). Since we didn't want to crush and break the insulation board, this was moved in 5 gallon buckets. The electric lift got lots of use, as did the high school kids. The dirt went to make the contours a lot better to guide where the water went.
We finally had some serious rain last weekend. Previously, *all* the roof tubes leaked from a little to more. Saturday, only one leaked, the one with a sun tube in it. I went up on the roof and found a seam I hadn't caulked (I caulked it). It rained hard again Sunday--the tube stayed dry! Hoping our leaks are over.
Pics of the shop wiring conduits from last week. Monday they poured the floors. The first date our (former) contractor gave us for pouring floors was July 1 2009. The 4'x8' steel frames leaning against the wall are cast in the concrete, with the plates just flush with the surface. Each 8" square plate has four 3/4-10 holes in it (filled with set screws and wax right now) to allow tying a larger project (like a gate) down to the floor. The concrete guy spent hours on Saturday with a laser shimming each plate to the right height. It looked highly improbable, but they all came out near-perfect. Excellent work.
Steve
As I mentioned previously, we have added perimeter drains on the roof two ways: the front of the shop leaked, we put a drain tube buried at roof level. We also added drains around the edges *above* the foam insulation board (because it holds the water). We had ponds up there last winter. The crew also put a bunch of clay-sand mix up on the roof (maybe 15 yards). Since we didn't want to crush and break the insulation board, this was moved in 5 gallon buckets. The electric lift got lots of use, as did the high school kids. The dirt went to make the contours a lot better to guide where the water went.
We finally had some serious rain last weekend. Previously, *all* the roof tubes leaked from a little to more. Saturday, only one leaked, the one with a sun tube in it. I went up on the roof and found a seam I hadn't caulked (I caulked it). It rained hard again Sunday--the tube stayed dry! Hoping our leaks are over.
Pics of the shop wiring conduits from last week. Monday they poured the floors. The first date our (former) contractor gave us for pouring floors was July 1 2009. The 4'x8' steel frames leaning against the wall are cast in the concrete, with the plates just flush with the surface. Each 8" square plate has four 3/4-10 holes in it (filled with set screws and wax right now) to allow tying a larger project (like a gate) down to the floor. The concrete guy spent hours on Saturday with a laser shimming each plate to the right height. It looked highly improbable, but they all came out near-perfect. Excellent work.
Steve
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SamWalton
Platinum Member
Hello Steve,
I am pleased to hear about your progress. I guess you are moved in? Right! I am impressed with your concrete guy. I would be interested to see more details on this conduit install.
We are busy with installing conduit ourselves. We are using the Schedule 40 rigid PVC for everything but the black and gray water drains. We are installing 1-1/4" conduit to later pull/push our 3/4" PEX water supply and 3/4" conduit to pull/push our 1/2" water supply lines. If anyone has experience pulling PEX through conduit please provide your thoughts. Pictures attached.
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tommu56
Elite Member
I as an electrician that is some good conduit work and fore thought on the runs.
Just thinking out loud I wonder if you heat the pex and pull it it might get a taper on it and then hook it to your fish to create a tapered end.
I don't recommend using jet line or conduit measuring tape to pull in your runs (the measuring tape is great to measure the precut your runs though).
I've had them cut in to the sweeps and get stuck in the pipes, and unless you pull perfectly vertical on the riser it will cut at the top of the pipe.
I use a fiber glass fish with a 12" cable leader to fish and pull most all my runs and if that wont pull in a run I use a piece of #12 thhn with some pulling lube, that is slicker than snot on a door knob as my grandfather would say.
tom
Just thinking out loud I wonder if you heat the pex and pull it it might get a taper on it and then hook it to your fish to create a tapered end.
I don't recommend using jet line or conduit measuring tape to pull in your runs (the measuring tape is great to measure the precut your runs though).
I've had them cut in to the sweeps and get stuck in the pipes, and unless you pull perfectly vertical on the riser it will cut at the top of the pipe.
I use a fiber glass fish with a 12" cable leader to fish and pull most all my runs and if that wont pull in a run I use a piece of #12 thhn with some pulling lube, that is slicker than snot on a door knob as my grandfather would say.
tom