Terramite cylinder disassembly

[Alan7s]

We have a few questions for anyone that can help, and thanks in advance:
We're starting rebuilding our T5C - one of the outriggers - because that has a leaking hydraulic line
and is probably the best one to learn on.
Got the cylinder off and lines out.

1. Does the factory sell complete kits to rebuild all the cylinders on a T5C or are they ordered individually only?
2. I got the steel retainer wire started out OK but didn't want to go further until I know if it comes out before or after the end retainer plate with the spanner holes
3. This summer we took out the 3 pins on each outrigger, cleaned them good and greased well with new zerk fittings. Now - a few months later it took a LOT
of heavy pounding to get one of the pins out. After cleaning up, can I use a coating of NeverSeize or is there a better lube that will keep the pins free?
4. Is there some commercially available sleeve type material to put around the hoses where they rub against frame etc. to protect them. I see some old ones
that look like canvas but large - for 3 or 4 hoses; pretty shot but still holding.

Thanks again;

 

[oldhippy]

1 I am sure that the factory has the seal kits. Also Terramite made their stuff with off the shelf parts. If you have a hyd shop close they should have the seals and such. I rebuilt most cylinders on my machine. Even if you cylinders are not leaking on the outside they can still leak by worn out rings inside. I noticed a increase in power on my curl cylinder after rebuild.

2 The spanner holes are to rotate and push out the wire. The end retainer plate is held in by only the wire in a groove.

3 and 4 just don,t know when you are at hyd shop ask them about hose protection.

To remove the nut on end of rod had to use a 400lb impact wrench as the 150lb one wouldn't do anything. All of this info in correct on my machine and I assume the same on all. big dan

 

[Alan7s]

Big Dan

Thanks very much for your help. Never realized it but you make a good point; why take the thing all apart and not replace the seals? If the outer one isn't leaking, maybe
the inner one is. Come to think of it, I note somewhat less power in a couple digging functions than in ones I used to rent. Rebuilding them one at a time is probably the way to go.
Impact wrench? Like garages use to take off lug nuts? Sorry, this is new . . .

 

[oldhippy]

Yeah like garages use. I use a air impact but it has to be a 400lb one. I had trouble with getting the outrigger cylinder of of terramite, couldn't get to the top bolt so rebuilt on tractor. If you have trouble getting the rod to come out of cylinder I started the machine and pushed the rod out with hyd stopping right before rod cleared the cylinder. big dan

 

[Alan7s]

Yeah like garages use. I use a air impact but it has to be a 400lb one. I had trouble with getting the outrigger cylinder of of terramite, couldn't get to the top bolt so rebuilt on tractor. If you have trouble getting the rod to come out of cylinder I started the machine and pushed the rod out with hyd stopping right before rod cleared the cylinder. big dan

Great idea; what are all the guys worrying about using compressed air to get the piston out and creating a dangerous projectile? Use the hyd and stop before it clears.
Maybe a large wrench with a length of pipe added for a handle will be strong enough to loosen that nut. Buying an (expensive) air impact wrench is not in the cards right now.

 

[oldhippy]

The large wrench with pipe did not work for me, might for you. Some rental places have hand tools. Used to have trouble getting the compsateing nut off of the Harley shovel head and would take it to a local truck and they would get them to use the impact on it, Lots of luck with this big dan.

 

[Alan7s]

The large wrench with pipe did not work for me, might for you. Some rental places have hand tools. Used to have trouble getting the compsateing nut off of the Harley shovel head and would take it to a local truck and they would get them to use the impact on it, Lots of luck with this big dan.

Hey Big Dan one more question . . . When you connect up the cyl to the hyd hose, it's only necessary to connect the one hose on the push side right? I'm sure
there could be some blow-by and leaking, but it's just to force the piston out, unless I'm missing something. Maybe need to cap the other end?

 

[Alan7s]

So far, so good. The wire came out OK, the piston came out fine; the nut was on tight but the socket and breaker bar worked OK. All the seals look good to my (inexperienced) eye,
but I'l bring the whole thing along to the shop when I go to get the hoses made. Once I had the nut off, I was able to remove the end plate and assembly; I can guess that the black seals
on the outside would be OK to replace, but there's an ivory colored one on the inside that looks like it keeps the oil from coming out around the shaft; don't like the look of getting that
out and a new one in there . . . Maybe that's one to be left alone - sort of a permanent thing?

 

[firemanmike69]

At work and on my jobs on the side, anytime I open up a hydraulic cylinder all the seals get replaced in the cylinder, it's short money

 

[Alan7s]

At work and on my jobs on the side, anytime I open up a hydraulic cylinder all the seals get replaced in the cylinder, it's short money

I guess what I need to know is that what I'm seeing is a replaceable seal and not something else.

 

[oldhippy]

Yeah I would replace all seals. Don't remember any being a real problem. Glad the socket and breaker bar worked. Sounds like you are on the way home on that job. big dan

 

[Alan7s]

Just for the record, and maybe help someone doing a search in the future; I decided to follow the advice above and replace the seals myself. It went well and I'm pleased with the result. Here's some notes of details. If the wire that holds the end plate can be grasped with a vise grips, it's not bad. But turning the end plate using the spanner holes in the end really helps. Nothing holds that end plate in but the wire; 1/8" on mine. Removing the piston just meant securing the piston in the bench vise and then a good swift yank on the piston. End nut came off with with breaker bar, socket and short pipe extension. Seals - 7 altogether - were not bad. I was too careful, trying to save them in case I couldn't get replacements, but next time will be more forceful. Small screwdrivers worked OK but I can see where those special tools could be useful, especially on that inner one. Seals were all available at the hyd shop, about $25. On their advice, I removed a very small machined ridge just inside the opening of the bore where the piston seal that flares outward gets hung up - and possibly damaged on reassembly. They suggested emory; I used a dremel tool. You have to be careful not to nick anything while doing the work. Getting the new seals on is not bad, but the piston seals are firm. I found it's a matter of trusting that they can be stretched over the piston and it won't hurt them. Some oil helps slide things along and they snap into the grooves. Clean the cylinder THOROUGHLY, a touch of grease on the parts, and it goes together well. Add the wire and it's done. Finally for those experienced guys, be tolerant of my terms, I'm new at this and not sure what stuff is called by the pro's.

 

[sampen]

I guess what I need to know is that what I'm seeing is a replaceable seal and not something else.

Everything is replaceable the white ring is called a wiper seal and yes you need to replace it. I have rebuilt a couple on mine not hard. I replace all my cylinders but 2 of them. dalton hydralics appears to be the cheapest place I've found about 110.00 a cylinder. But you find that you will need to do some mods although mine is a 1974 T-3-14 not a t5. its really not that bad
Sam

 

[Alan7s]

Everything is replaceable the white ring is called a wiper seal and yes you need to replace it. I have rebuilt a couple on mine not hard. I replace all my cylinders but 2 of them. dalton hydralics appears to be the cheapest place I've found about 110.00 a cylinder. But you find that you will need to do some mods although mine is a 1974 T-3-14 not a t5. its really not that bad
Sam

I know this is a bit off topic but has anyone had to remove the cylinders that swing the boom from side to side? One of ours is leaking and now that I can replace them, I'm wondering how difficult it would be to get that cylinder off. Thanks Sam, - a wiper seal - makes sense. You were right it wasn't bad.

 

[bundyal]

Hey Sampen,I need to replace the swing hyd cylinders on an old T7 I have. Any ideas where I can get them?