Buying Advice Texas cab or no cab? (towing limit)

[Complete Turf Care]

One more thing to consider with cab vs. open station is using your phone.

For me, I run my own small business and could not answer phone calls from an open station. I have spent about 200 hours on one tractor and about 50 on the other tractor this year (both have cabs). I can easily take calls and conduct business from the cab. No way I could do this in an open station tractor.

And, I'm in South Louisiana and the heat here is just brutal now. I have also spent many hours working in the rain with mine. I won't buy a tractor without a cab again.

 

[jrbarnard]

Thanks, JC. I plan to do that, just getting my ducks in a row before I waste their time going in. I agree, until ya sit in the seat, the choice is just numbers. At this point...the down payments are not really that big a deal... and the payments are not so far off as to discount anything.

The questions I will have to ask, after driving each, is:

1 - is A/C worth having to ask someone to go with me to tow it home till I get a trailer?

2 - Is A/C worth having to rent or borrow extra attachments like the backhoe and auger?


$2,300 vs $2,900 down payment is not too huge a deal and then payments of $302 vs $400 is..again, not a huge deal breaker....so

Just something I gotta figure out heh.. but, like you said... sitting in it may be the last piece of the puzzle.

I appreciate you all 'talking' me through al of it. Will post photos when I finally break free and make a decision

Russ

 

[MickeyDBC]

Attachments can be picked up off of Craigslist and local sales as a good deal pops up and you need them, but if you want a backhoe buy it with the tractor installed so that you don't have to kluge something together later. All of the dealers that I talked to included free delivery, but if you needed work other than a recall done transport was on your dime. Unless you get a little baby tractor, it is very easy to have the weight of the tractor, an implement or two, and the trailer go over 10K pounds, so you are pretty much doomed anyway to having to hit up your buddies for a ride. For me, the difference between having AC vs not is the difference between getting stuff done all day long on the tractor vs. not. Just too hot during the summer and I am too old and fat to deal with it.

 

[jrbarnard]

Okay, so figuring out the "true" towing capacity:

on the door panel, it says

GAWR Front: 3700lb
GAWR Rear: 3900lb
GVWR: 6800lb


I go to a RV site and punch in my VIN and it tells me towing capacity is 4510.

The door sticker says the above.

Then I look up the VIN again on a different site and get this:


Gross Axle Wt Rating - Front 3700 lbs 3700.0 min 3700.0 max
Gross Axle Wt Rating - Rear 3900 lbs 3900.0 min 3900.0 max
Curb Weight - Front 2760 lbs 2760.0 min 2760.0 max
Curb Weight - Rear 2264 lbs 2264.0 min 2264.0 max
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating Cap 6900, 6950, 6800 lbs 6800.0 min 6950.0 max
Fuel Economy Est-Combined 20 (Est) MPG
EPA Fuel Economy Est - City 17 (Est) MPG
EPA Fuel Economy Est - Hwy 25 (Est) MPG
Gross Combined Wt Rating 13800, 13750, 9850 lbs 9850.0 min 13800.0 max
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Trailer Wt. 8070, 7860, 4510 lbs 4510.0 min 8070.0 max
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Tongue Wt. 807, 786, 451 lbs 451.0 min 807.0 max
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Trailer Wt. 8070, 7860, 4510 lbs 4510.0 min 8070.0 max
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Tongue Wt. 807, 786, 451 lbs 451.0 min 807.0 max
Maximum Trailering Capacity 8070, 7860, 4510 lbs 4510.0 min 8070.0 max

So, like usual, cannot swing a dead cat without hitting a different opinion.

Either way, I will also look at sway bars and stabilizers, if available, like when I towed a camper...if it works, anything to make it safer.

Going to make time this weekend to go try to look at a few models.

Thanks guys.
Russ

 

[Jchonline]

Okay, so figuring out the "true" towing capacity:

on the door panel, it says

GAWR Front: 3700lb
GAWR Rear: 3900lb
GVWR: 6800lb


I go to a RV site and punch in my VIN and it tells me towing capacity is 4510.

The door sticker says the above.

Then I look up the VIN again on a different site and get this:


Gross Axle Wt Rating - Front 3700 lbs 3700.0 min 3700.0 max
Gross Axle Wt Rating - Rear 3900 lbs 3900.0 min 3900.0 max
Curb Weight - Front 2760 lbs 2760.0 min 2760.0 max
Curb Weight - Rear 2264 lbs 2264.0 min 2264.0 max
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating Cap 6900, 6950, 6800 lbs 6800.0 min 6950.0 max
Fuel Economy Est-Combined 20 (Est) MPG
EPA Fuel Economy Est - City 17 (Est) MPG
EPA Fuel Economy Est - Hwy 25 (Est) MPG
Gross Combined Wt Rating 13800, 13750, 9850 lbs 9850.0 min 13800.0 max
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Trailer Wt. 8070, 7860, 4510 lbs 4510.0 min 8070.0 max
Dead Weight Hitch - Max Tongue Wt. 807, 786, 451 lbs 451.0 min 807.0 max
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Trailer Wt. 8070, 7860, 4510 lbs 4510.0 min 8070.0 max
Wt Distributing Hitch - Max Tongue Wt. 807, 786, 451 lbs 451.0 min 807.0 max
Maximum Trailering Capacity 8070, 7860, 4510 lbs 4510.0 min 8070.0 max

So, like usual, cannot swing a dead cat without hitting a different opinion.

Either way, I will also look at sway bars and stabilizers, if available, like when I towed a camper...if it works, anything to make it safer.

Going to make time this weekend to go try to look at a few models.

Thanks guys.
Russ

Ya figuring out towing is a pain. I had to rebuild my truck on the Ford website (luckily it is a 2018 and that is still available) to get the bare curb weight.

The GAWR is the amount the axle can hold. I didn’t add those in my post above, most times they aren’t the overall limiting factor. However I suppose they could be in certain cases (GN over the rear axle maybe)?

Sometimes the best way to get your curb weight is to take it to a scale. Passenger and cargo weights are easy to figure out.

Towing weight will be dependent on a few things, including the hitch you have on the vehicle. There may be a sticker on your rear hitch...get a flashlight and go hunting!

If 4100 lbs is correct (that seems very low) then remember that includes the weight of the trailer.