the absolute best splitter for the money

[sizzami]

I have built a lot of splitters every cut every weld every nut and bolt , this is by far the best ,
three inch ram
16 gpm pump
20 stroke
11hp
1.25 thick t wedge
I have looked at and built splitters with huge engines huge pumps and huge rams , nobody seems to pay attention to wedge profile and stroke , ie short stroke small wedge small cylinder , big pump=fast cycle ,splitting ability, to be clear ability doesnt mean power, I have spilt every kind and size of wood with this thing and I would put it up against any splitter and compare piles.
this is not for spitting long wood , but if you are burning 16 to 18 inch wood , every inch of stroke you add costs time, and the t knife does some pretty cool things , the splits coming off the bottom of the wedge are allways the same size , the top piece is one piece so you are never chasing an oversized piece like you would with a fourway, it is important to place the top of the t ahead of the vertical so that the splitter is never trying to bite off two chunks, the horizontal is split then the vertical, run through the wedge let the top chunk ride the push plate back push through again.

 

[90cummins]

I like it!
I built mine 25+ years ago & even planned for a second horizontal wedge but never built it or a tray to catch the split wood.
Off-setting the wedges and tapering the horizontal wedge on the upper side only so it lifts the wood is a detail I never thought of. Where a typical 2 bevel wedge will crowd the wood into the I-beam yours lifts it.
Having built several splitters you continued to refine the machines performance to the point where a 3” cylinder gets the job done.
Makes scents that once the wood is fractured in 2 planes it requires less force to complete the job.
Thanks now I need to design & install my 2nd wedge & tray.
That isn’t patented is it!!!
Hope not otherwise we'll meet in court!

Tim
:thumbsup:

 

[J_J]

sizzami,

While your wedge design may help somewhat, the pressure and the displacement of the cyl will determine the splitting force. The GPM's will determine the speed of operation.

 

[davygp38]

That (T) wedge works for me, I think I will try that mod, on mine.

 

[sizzami]

jj I never mentioned force I said ability and the small contact with the wood on the wedge makes up for ALOT of force think of a rapier vs a broadsword.

 

[Beltzington]

That is a very cool design, did you need to cut back the I-Beam behind the vertical wedge to clear the wood or were you just tweaking? Also, have you tried/considered adding a shelf behind the horizontal wedge to support the uncut wood? Looks like it might have the tendency to fall off the splitter. Thanks for sharing your ideas.

 

[sizzami]

I cut the flange because , this is the second splitter I ever built and originaly it had a slip on 4 way with a 5 inch cylinder and the tendency was for the wedge to lift off as you split , as for adding a table , that is one of the best things about the design , your unsplit section never spends any time sitting any where, you push the round through grab the leading edge of the unsplit section and let it ride the pusher back drop in place , rinse lather repeat.

 

[Beltzington]

Would you be generous enough to provide dimensions for the vertical and horizontal t-blade?

 

[sizzami]

here you go 60 degree bevel is what I did.

 

[Haywire]

I like it. I've got an 18hp engine w/ a 28gpm pump on my splitter coupled with a 4x24 cylinder, so I probably have a similar cycle time as yours. My splitter has a spreader on it (like many others), so it forces the wood apart after it penetrates 3 inches or so. I'd have to cut that off to try the T splitter concept. I think I'd also taper the top wedge down an inch at the front, so the bottom splits going past it have room to move and not get jammed between the horizontal wedge and the beam flange. You have the flange removed so that provides the space. I don't want to alter the beam.

Nice.
Ian