the absolute best splitter for the money

[arrow]

Very nice splitter there as well!..

It better be for $10,000.

 

[Haywire]

What kind of metal are you using for the top of the T wedge? My current wedge is about 6-7" and I've been wanting a 12" wedge to reach higher in the bigger pieces. What I thought about doing is hooking up a T and if I didn't like it, cut the whole thing off and get the 12" regular wedge I've been wanting.

Ian

 

[sizzami]

another benifit of the tee is hard to explain but maybe some of the other guys who have used it can help , if you let the splitter stand on its own stabilizers and park it beside your to be split pile the uniform bottom splits will form a pile that , once high enough will push the splitter along as you split creating a long uniform pile of split wood I honestly am not trying to be sarcastic but I could .............

 

[Haywire]

What kind of metal are you using for the top of the T wedge?

Is it just mild steel or is it hardened?

Ian

 

[arrow]

I honestly am not trying to be sarcastic but I could .............

So can anybody in this forum.

 

[Haywire]

Got to thinking this morning about what I could use for a trial without any money out of pocket. I've got an old 12" plow share that I replaced because the point was worn out. It's got to be nicely hardened, but only 3/8" thick. I wonder how long that would last as the 'T'.

Ian

 

[arrow]

Got to thinking this morning about what I could use for a trial without any money out of pocket. I've got an old 12" plow share that I replaced because the point was worn out. It's got to be nicely hardened, but only 3/8" thick. I wonder how long that would last as the 'T'.

Ian

Ian
If you have a log grate table on your splitter that catches logs as they split, save your money. If you do not and have at least a 16-20 ton splitter, buy this from the guy who obviously makes them for $50 and know it will save you time if your splits are falling to the ground. It will be worth it for you that if you are going to do it, do it right.

 

[ovrszd]

I envy those who seem always split the perfect sized rounds. I've often wanted to see the forest those grow in. I'm a scrounger, I use every bit of the tree, down to wrist sized top branches. My wood pile is not pretty and uniform. With that said, the only size round I can think of that could be finished in one stroke with the T would be something small enough to fit under the T. If the round was of a size that the T would center split it, I'd still need to make a second stroke to finish the round. If I had the perfect forest, wouldn't I be ahead to have a 4 way??

And what about that round that's an inch bigger than the height of the T as mentioned by Arrow, wouldn't I end up with a sliver??

I use a hydraulic controlled 4 way that can be raised or lowered to fit the need. Yeah,,, I'm totally spoiled.

I also stack my wood, can't be without a catch rack. Aggravates the heck out of me if I accidentally let a split piece fall off the rack and I have to bend down to pick it up off the ground.

Tough looking design though. Properly sharpened to not jam the split piece under the T when splitting.

Also wanted to mention the length of the round. It's a LOT more expensive to cut a cord of short firewood versus cutting the longest piece you and your stove can handle.

 

[sizzami]

the lenght of the ram is the length of wood I burn I believe I said you should shape the splitter to the length you burn.
log tables are great but you still need to pick up the odd size chunk
heres a few I built and I like the three way best if you dont oh well

 

[Haywire]

You've built some sweet splitters there. :thumbsup: