The Agony Of Defeat

[gemini5362]

it is breaking the weld itself ?

 

[MikeD74T]

I have to disagree. Too much heat will do much more than anneal. The annealing process requires much LESS heat to achieve the desire results. By heating beyond the critical temperature range of the base metal, molecular structure is changed, and brittleness occurs. Annealing is an involved process. Ever notice if a weld fails it usually breaks along side of the weld bead? This is the "heat affected zone". Temperature "at the arc" can be between 10,000 and 12,000 degrees F. Most metals melt well below that temp. I do agree with you concerning forced cooling. Never do it.

Annealing is softening, regardless of degree. The only critical part is annealing to retain the desired hardness, not too much, not too little. Heating to red hot, or hotter, & quenching hardens, reheating softens until reheating stops & requenched. Continued reheating will remove all hardness - fully annealed. I'm just saying that the shaft was not hardened by heating alone, somehow it was cooled too fast. MikeD74T

 

[excelagator]

I looked at your thread on the conversion. I think the biggest problem is the pins. They were a tab long for the extra weight and vibration of a tiller.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...582-2-point-conversion-tractor-tiller-004.jpg

I am welding implements up and waiting for something to break at snails crawl. Personally, if you dont exceed the 1st time weld again.

Dan

 

[bjr]

I don't have pictures to back up my accident, but it was as if not worse. Those rice tillers were meant for Japanese soupy rice paddy's not our soil conditions here in US and probably smaller Hp tractors then some of us use. I wound up total making new mounts that pull from behind the tube of the tiller. I use 1/2" plate for every thing. Then I made a new tiller shaft with flanges to take KK bolt on tines. It was a lot to do and spend $$$. It's a real animal now I've used it three yrs and it's still going fine. Heres a pdf file to show what I did. bjr

 

[ericher69]

There are no dumb questions!

Too much heat will show up as a flat or concave weld bead with gauging on the sides of the bead itself (there will be a depressed area between the bead and the base metal). "Blowing holes" is a no brainer. Prep work wether using stick, tig, mig is crucial! If your material is too thick you may have to taper it and make multiple passes with your welder to achieve the desired result.

I'm not a professional welder but am in the process of achieving my CWB testing tickets.

ericher69