the best carb cleaner

[Quickster2]

Techron or Redline S1 for the PEA.

 

[PILOON]

My 2 cents!
And I've cleaned many a carb this way.

Buy a spray can of oven cleaner, as cheap as a couple of $$'s from discount stores.

Spray all the parts and follow up with a good rinsing with warm water.
I guaranty U it works like a charm, just don't forget a rinse as it is caustic and will corrode aluminum parts.

ps: also a great de greaser for engine parts

 

[SPYDERLK]

My engine is hard to start and runs a little rough, was wondering what might be a good additive to add to the gas to help clean out the carb? This is on a John Deere 425 with a Kawasaki engine.

Thks Weeder

Seafoam is of limited benefit for 4 stroke engines. It was originally developed for 2 stroke outboard motors.

Use a fuel system cleaner that contains PEA. I prefer Gumout or Techron. Both work well, are available at Walmart. Pick the cheapest. Either will remove fuel system varnish and deposits as well as clean up the valve stems and combustion chambers of carbon. Don't overdose. Follow the directions and be prepared to change engine oil after 10-20 hours of operation due to carbon soot in the oil. Thereafter, quality engine oil should be used to help keep the engine clean. Your fuel filter may need a change after treatment. While your engine is water cooled (I believe), I run Mobil1 5w-30 in my B&S Vtek twin. Synthetic engine oil in these smaller engines provides measurable benefits. Don't overlook valve lash adjustments...keeping the lash in spec can improve cold starts, improve engine power and help the engine run cooler. Also, clean and gap the sparkplugs. I always run plug gaps a little tight (0.003"-0.005" under spec)...helps cold starts.

Two stroke engines are more sensitive to fuel flow and quality than their 4 stroke counterparts. Keeping fresh fuel in a two stroke and draining it when finished help keep small carb passages and orifices clear of restrictive deposits. If you want to restore a fouled carburetor passage or orifice, use a solvent made for the job. Seafoam is of little help.

Well Thanks to all the advice, the fuel filter was just changed this spring as always so I will try some sea foam and if that doesn't work I guess I will tackle the carb. The plugs are also new too. Now I have to find some????

Thks weeder

Apparently you dont listen.
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[Kyle_in_Tex]

The best, hands down, is this. But watch out, it is potent. It will burn the crap out of your skin and eyes if you get it on you.

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-and-e...VDHiGCh15EgU3EAQYAyABEgIsfPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

much better than Berrymans

 

[radios1]

Gumout always worked great.. some in the gas, some on the carb. sometimes running the carb on 100% gumout is needed.

 

[5030]

The best, hands down, is this. But watch out, it is potent. It will burn the crap out of your skin and eyes if you get it on you.

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-and-e...VDHiGCh15EgU3EAQYAyABEgIsfPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

much better than Berrymans

I'll give it a go next time I'm at AZ.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I'll give it a go next time I'm at AZ.

Just a heads up, this stuff will soak through blue nitrile gloves like they're not even there. It doesn't eat the rubber it just penetrates it.

 

[5030]

Just a heads up, this stuff will soak through blue nitrile gloves like they're not even there. It doesn't eat the rubber it just penetrates it.

I wear black ones.... I bet it sucks the oil's right out of your skin too.