The endless debate - Husky or Stihl?? Why??

[jyoutz]

At the agency where I work, we are dealing with the timber salvage from this past summer's Rodeo-Chediski Wildfire. We have about 380 MILLION board feet of timber to harvest. We have sold 6 timber sale units to local purchasers and 8 timber sale units to out of the region purchasers. We now have 200+ total tree fallers working on the salvage operations. Earlier this week I was in the field briefing some of the cutters. From my informal survey, I observed about 3/4 Stihl, 1/4 Husky, and NO OTHER saw brands. These cutters are pretty much from throughout the Western US. Interesting. One thing's for sure, professional fallers pretty much stick with these 2 brands.

 

[RobertN]

The oils are manufactured to work properly at a given ratio. Some oils, such as Amsoil, I believe are made to run at 100:1 ratio. Many, like the Husky oil run at 50:1. Others run in the 40:1 ratio.

I was taught by pro motocross racer and mechanic to mix by what the oil company recomends. If you run it leaner than recomended, it will not lubricate enough. If you run it richer than specced, it gets too much oil in the comustion chamber. That will foul the plug, affect performance, and make a lot of smoke. It can also cause the engine to run hotter, as the oil tried to burn in the combustion chamber.

Many engine manufacturers will spec an oil and a ratio. If you change oils, it is not necessarily best to remain with the engine spec ratio. Different oils have differing viscosities and lubricating values.

I had an old boat with a 75hp outboard a few years back. Got it for $300. It ran terrible, and fouled plugs constantly. We took over 50 plugs out of the storage cubbies; they were all fouled. Knew folks who went fishing with the guy; after about 1/2 hour of use, he had to change plugs...

I cleaned the gas tank and fuel system up. Put new plugs in it... Then I filled it up with Pennzoil outboard oil and fresh gas(same oil the guy had used). It ran great for the next two years I had it. Well, I ran it at 50:1, which is what the oil was designed for. He had been running it at 20:1, like an 1960's manual for the motor said to do. That 20:1 was fouling the plugs like crazy. The 50:1, properly mixed per oil company spec, worked great. I never changed another plug on that motor, and it ran great!

He was using a spec for a different oil that wasn't even made anymore.

Since I started running oil by the oil maker spec, like Steve told me too, I have never had an issue with a 2-stroke motor. The plugs have been clean and the engine hardly smoked at all.

I did lose a dirt bike engine to bad oil once. Roasted the rings and cylinder wall on my old Honda CR450. Found out the oil company had a bad batch get out to the public. A few people lost motors... I can't remember what oil it was; it was 15 years ago. I switched at that time to Hi-Point racing oil, and never had another dirt bike problem...

I use those Husky "6-packs" too, for one gallon mixes. They work great.

I only mix 1 gallon at a time, and try to use it up promptly. Another thing my buddy Steve the motocross racer taught/told me, was that once you mix the oil and gas, the oil starts to break down. If your not using it within a couple days, dispose of it. Many people think that is a joke. But, for him, that fresh gas could mean the difference between winning or losin the big race. For you or me, it probably doesn't hurt to let it sit. But, why risk the investment in you power tool?

So ends my Friday afternoon novel/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

 

[FamilyFarm]

I have a Stihl 026 Pro (same as current 260 Pro). There have a been a few times I would have liked the 036 for larger trees, but have really appreciated the lighter weight of the 026 for 90% of the tasks at hand. I have a Sears (Poulan) 14" lightweight I have kept around for trimming smaller limbs, but often leave it sitting for the sake of the cutting power and smooth balance of the 026. The Sears saw will be great for my sons to learn saw techniques and safety; otherwise, I would get rid of it. My stepfather has a 029 (same as 290) and there is a definite advantage in balance, power and smoothness of the 'pro' model.

Terry

 

[art]

As a dealer for both, the 55 is a home owner or semi-pro as husky calls it. The 026 or 260 is a pro model much the same as the Husky 346XP. Both saws seem to sell equally well as Husky does do a lot of advertising. Going in between and knowing service warrantee, we do about half on the stihls of the husky. The Husky does turn faster so that is probably the reason for the increased engine work. There is no debate as to my preference as I to like longevity and value. I would not ever buy a semi pro or home owners saw after having cut with both.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

In the case of the Stihl 260, all the 'pro' designation gets you is the compression release and 'pro' decal on the saw. Same saw, power, RPM, etc. Up to the man pulling the rope if the decompression valve is worth the $30. Used my 260 Sunday along with 4 other 026 pro owners, made a lot of wood in 4 hours with 5 saws!

 

[FamilyFarm]

True, there are two different 260 models, but both are called "professional" by Stihl. When I compared the 290 in my previous post, I meant compared to either 260 model of "professional" saw. The compression release is nice, but about 1/3 of the time I forget to press it before starting and there isn't a whole lot of difference really in the pull.
I would have enjoyed that sawing session you were a part of! I would have also been worn out as I am living too far south now to need very much firewood and haven't kept in shape to cut for long without tiring. I've used my saw more for clearing some property than trying to get wood to burn.

Terry

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Yes, I believe the 290, 310 and 390 are all saws that are built as "price fighters". Good machines, just fewer features.
We will be having many of our large sawing sessions this winter. Timber prices are high now and a lot of people are having trees cut. The place we are cutting now had over 1000 hard maple and beech trees cut, and the landowner wants the tops removed quickly, so he gave them to us. I used my 260 to remove brush from tops in the woods. We had a man on the JD 5400 pulling tops into a field where we blocked them up. I used my 046 for that, along with many others' 026 pro saws.

 

[raptor]

Hello all:

Thanks for the many replies, and comments regarding this topic.

I decided on the Stihl (I learned it's pronounced - steel) 260. Partly because of what was said here, and what a dealer a couple of miles away recommended.

I can hardly wait to christen it. Thanks for all the replies...

 

[Richard]

I dont' want to presume you dont know better, nor that it's not been read by you somewhere....

But don't forget to ALSO get the goodies that go with the chainsaw..

Protective gear, chaps, ear prot.. When I bought mine, I had no inkling of the protective stuff, the dealer who was going out of buisniess made no mention (nor carried any as far as I can recall).. it wasn't until I read here about it that the obvious finally sunk through my thick skull... my skull might be thick...but not TOO thick that the spinning chain couldn't deal with it.

Let the Mrs buy it for you for Christmas!

Richard

 

[RayBee]

I don't think you can go wrong with either, the dealer is animportant part of the scenario. I've got a Husky I love it & it'smy favorite color ......ORANGE. Stihl makes great products,enjoy your new saw. Raybee