The Log house Project begins........

tnmike · Sep 23, 2011

Rick where is your transformer pole? Where the hill starts below the house? Did they pull the 300 feet of triplex in one span?

MotorSeven · Sep 23, 2011

tnmike said:
Rick where is your transformer pole? Where the hill starts below the house? Did they pull the 300 feet of triplex in one span?

Yep, The Elec Co said that 300' is the max before voltage drop occurs. The house will not have central heat or air and all energy star appliances....should be ok.

I can not delve into solar now, we just flat out do not have any extra $. I do want someday to be off grid because inmho I do not think the grid is always going to be around...this might happen a lot sooner than folks think(and a big reason I am heating with wood). When I can swing it I want solar to run my water system, then a hot water system(most of us can build that ourselves), then roof panels w/battery's.

tnmike · Sep 23, 2011

Solar hot water heating provides the most energy for the buck. Hot water is typically 40 % of the typical electric bill.

Solar electric is expensive but the price is dropping. The federal tax credit makes it more affordable. Off grid applications are tied to lead acid batteries and the best of those have about a ten year life expectancy. That is the weak link at the present time.

tnmike · Sep 24, 2011

I am a fan of the rack mounted solar panels at ground level. They are so much easier to maintain and to clean. Dust and dirt buildup hurt the efficiency.

The house is coming along great. :thumbsup:

MotorSeven · Sep 26, 2011

Ok gang, the Crane will be here on Friday @ 1000hrs. The guy that was supposed to help can't make it, but he did stop by and show me how to lay out the rafter cut & birds mouth. So it looks like I will have a go at it....{gulp}.

I will use this week to get everything ready and there is a lot to do.

MotorSeven · Sep 27, 2011

I have a question for those in the insulation/construction field:

I plan on decking the roof with 2x6's, then 30 weight tar paper, then either a double foil foam board or a 3" styrofoam board(have not decided yet based on price). Over the foam will go purlins and the metal roof screwed to the purlins. I want to make sure I am not creating a moisture problem, so if I am making a mistake, please point it out. I am wondering if a breathable vapor barrier would be better than tar paper?

tony Cecil · Sep 27, 2011

I`v enjoyed your progress and would like to contribute......A few years ago I replaced the roof on our cabin in the mountains of N C....It is similar to yours in many ways.....I have genuine three in by six in tung and groove cypress sheeting, followed by tar paper, with two by four spacers that the styrofoam (although it is sheets the thickness of the two inch wood and is heartier) over that the Vanteck five eights in sheets with ice and water shield, followed by the composite shingles......I have no moisture problem, and recently I found out the V in the tong and groove actually goes all the way through the outside, providing a bit of breathing up there, yet the house is very warm in the winter..

I was worried just like you, but this roof is a fine one, and if you use the purlins as a nailer, you should really have alot of ventilation.....It might be worthwhile to consider the vantec sheeting in liew of the perlins.....and i only say that as after a few years I have had no problems, where as when I put on a cedar shaked roof with the nailers , it did not last too long, and due to the shakes had a tendency to `cup` on the sides of the roof....Tony

moeh1 · Sep 27, 2011

When you get the ridge beam up, here is a trick I used for getting rafter lengths perfect. I cut a birdsmouth in a small block of wood the same size as the rafters, put a nail in the top and set it on the wall. Hook a tape on the nail and measure to the top of the ridge beam. Take the block down, set it in place on your rafter with the birdsmouths lined up and the tape will get you the right length, even if the wall does go in and out a bit down the length of the house. Make sure you get the crown up on the ridge beam as well, or run a string along the top and temporary jack it up, 22 feet may sag just a hair and you don't want the roof to look bellied.

MotorSeven · Sep 28, 2011

Tony, thanks for the info. I am looking at 65 sheets of 4x8 to cover my roof. I would love to sandwich the foam between the decking and Vantec. Money is an issue, but I will bite the bullet if purlins will cause a problem. So far I am at about $2K for the 2x6 decking( or $1600 for 3/4 T&G) , then 1/2" high density foam @ an R-value of 3, or 3" styrofoam bead board @ an R-value of 10.5......both of these are both are same cost at around $600. The purlins are already cut and drying off my mill so their cost is labor. I have not priced the tin yet, but I have a good local source that is very reasonable.

Mo, I appreciate the tip and I will use that to double check my work. I plan on making a template out of a 21' 1x6 with an adjustable plywood plate at the ridge end and birds mouth end. I have to move all the rafters up to the site tomorrow, get the ridge supports up, then make a template. I really want to have everything in place so that the crane operator is not sitting around sctraching his arse while I scratch my head.....$75 an hr adds up quick.