Buying Advice The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors....

   / The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors.... #51  
I did not buy a trailer with my tractor. When I bought my tractor from a dealer a few hours away, they delivered it "for free". I have had to have it in once for a warranty work. They charged $150 to pick it up and take it to the shop and then drop it off after the repair. I thought that was reasonable. I would also second driving them to see what is comfortable for you. I will get some crap for this, but I think HST is like a microwave. Nobody needs it, but once you have it it is hard to imagine life without it...
 
   / The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors.... #52  
I haul my 2538 mahindra with loaded rears and a 6ft rotary cutter to my farm 140 miles one way on a 18 ft carhauler with trailer brakes behind my 2012 chevy half ton 4x4 with no problems at all.Have done that for years with my similar 2810. When i went to a 6 ft cutter over my 5 ft i was really surprised at how much quicker the 6 ft cutter was. I use my tractors on our 360 acre hunting property. Yes i could use a larger tractor but im happy with what i have for now. I do wish i had a cab in the summer because of allergys and the heat. but i do alot of work in the woods.
 
   / The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors.... #53  
Just a little side note. Was -18c today, with a stiff wind. Had a blow last night. Clearing the mess today was a pleasure because I opted for a cab tractor. Being over 65, an open station tractor wasn't considered at all. Tried the snowblower, open station tractor once last year. Cured me real quick. Temps down south may not get too cold, but snow blowing around your ears gets old fast, get the cab.
 
   / The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors.... #54  
1. Tires: R1/ag tires are factory four-ply. Flexibility of four-ply construction assists traction. First choice for mud. Downsides: Sidewalls thin, vulnerable to cuts. Vibrate and wear rapidly on hard surfaces. Rut residential lawn unless lawn is completely dry.

R4/industrial tires are factory six-ply and broader. Stiffer construction supports heavy Loader loads. Tire sidewalls tough. Less prone to puncture when operating a Rotary Cutter over sharp, pointed, new-cut brush. Reasonably smooth travel over hard surfaces. Downside: More material and labor in tire = 10% higher cost.

R4 tires are purchased on 90% of new compact tractors. R1 and R3/Turf tires share 10% balance.

Since we do not know your slopes, tire selection should be discussed with Knoxville tractor dealers.


2. Dealers often charge $1.50 to $2.00 per mile to transport a tractor with the mechanic at the wheel.

20 miles X 4 (two round trips) X $2.00 = $160 transportation.

Kubota mechanic time in agricultural north Florida = $75/per hour. Knoxville probably similar.

I doubt Rural King offers tractor transportation.

Just an FYI. Rural King does offer Transport. I'm waiting on my tractor now :)
 
   / The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors.... #55  
I don't know if you are financing the tractor purchase ,or not. But looking on the RS site, It seems their interest rates for tractors are somewhat on the high side compared those that offer 0% financing with a small fee

Of course, I bought a good used tractor without DPF, DEF,computer, etc,.

Financing | RK Tractors
 
   / The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors.... #56  
You should also consider lifting capacity. I’m thrilled and amazed every time I use my tractor to move and lift something heavy (like a pallet of building materials). I’m also really bummed when my tractor can’t lift something. And I wish I had gone bigger...
 
   / The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors.... #57  
Gonna guess you aren't mowing the entire lot weekly and maintaining a groomed lawn over the whole thing.

The terrain has as a lot do with mowing speed. If the land is real rough, you slow down a lot or it just beats the heck out of you - there is no suspension on a tractor like a car. Bigger machine will mow faster. Not just because it can pull a bigger mower, but the larger diameter tires can just bridge smaller ruts instead of dipping into them. Heavier machine and suspension seat help there too. But lots of obstacles to navigate and very uneven ground will be a much slower speed than say a golf course fairway.

While shopping, compare different suspension seat type options if your ground isn't very smooth. Adjustable air suspension seat makes a really big difference. Also note how much vibration you're feeling in the wheel, seat, floor at higher RPM. Many will be like sitting on a Harley at idle - you don't so much care about that if they smooth out real nice at higher rpm. But if during a little test run at PTO rpm and ground speed you think you'd want to mow at, note how different ones feel as far as the vibration getting transferred to you. Bad seat + lots of vibration + uneven terrain = you beat to death at end of day.

The lifting capacity mentioned above is good to look at too, especially if you know you need to lift something of a certain weight. IBC totes full of water in my case. Round bales common for others. If you have something like that, you need to test it on the machine. Comparing specs on paper is ballpark and they all do it a little different. At the pins vs 20" forward is a huge # difference on paper for 2 loaders that can do same thing. Lifting 3' off the ground vs full height are very different. Kubota sticks out as an example - for what I was looking at their measurements were 20" in front of pivot pins and to full height. That gave you a very realistic #. Others might calculate by figuring what theirs can lift at pins and just get it off the ground - not necessarily to full height which would make them look like they can lift 2x as much as the same size Kubota, but really can do about the same.

Capture.JPG

That's a random Kubota loader spec. Gives you lots of detail to compare and really know what it can do. Most will not give you all those #s. If you look at (w) there - 1.5 meters off ground at pivot pins that is a very big difference vs (v) max height, 20" forward of pivot pins. Some might only give you the equivalent of (w) and no other # so it makes it hard to compare on paper which one does what you want. Mine for example only lists weight to full height at pivot pins - leaving you to guess what that means for a load out on pallet forks or in the bucket or how much more can it lift just to carry position? That's an area where just putting brochure data in an excel spreadsheet doesn't do you much good.

So figure out what is important and then make sure you are comparing those aspects - and you are comparing apples:apples as you go along.
 
   / The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors.... #58  
Something else to consider when you are buying this tractor......I know you do not have much experience with tractors now but lets say in the future you get comfortable enough to possibly look into the potential options of turning all that grass you plan on shredding into money.....where you are located $4 square bales and $25 round bales can sure make a difference in the tax burden.....even if you hired someone to do it,.. and that may be an option for now until you get comfortable. And you could probably go in with someone on the halves and get you some nice round bales, and that equals money for you...... AND if you can move/load them that's a plus to buyers.......just thinking ahead on this one......

Also Definitely get a skid steer quick attach system, SSQA in short, for the loader........most already come that way but the green guys trap you into their implements by putting their proprietary system on them.....then you are stuck unless you spend the $$$$ to change it later.......Also be aware of the GLOBAL ATTACHMENT SYSTEM on the front end loader, Good system but i would shy away from it due to most loader attachments not coming that way unless special ordered.
 
   / The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors.... #59  
...

Also Definitely get a skid steer quick attach system, SSQA in short, for the loader........most already come that way but the green guys trap you into their implements by putting their proprietary system on them.....then you are stuck unless you spend the $$$$ to change it later.......Also be aware of the GLOBAL ATTACHMENT SYSTEM on the front end loader, Good system but i would shy away from it due to most loader attachments not coming that way unless special ordered.

Balderdash and codswallop! Without sending this thread off on a different tangent, ALL implements for a Front End Loader (FEL) come so that you can "Bolt" them onto the FEL.

If you have a Quick Attach (QA) system bolted on to the FEL, then you order the implement to be attached with that configuration. If you want, you can order a JD FEL with a SSQA.

There is nothing wrong with the JDQA system. Indeed, it is robust, simple and lighter than the SSQA (designed specifically for a Skid Steer) and the Global QA.
 
   / The new guys first post who knows nothing about tractors.... #60  


Thank's Wagtail, With all due respect, I knew this would happen somewhere, I offended somebody by just trying to let the newbie in on a little info of the big green tractor company.....while you can "just bolt on" a new system as you put it, where we are that cost money in the aftermarket arena. And I cannot think of another tractor lot or Rental establishment that carries John Deere Loader attachments other than the John Deer Dealers unless they have used trade in's on the lot.....I am sure you can buy them online with that system but you have to specify It....Also I did not say they were weak, or heavier, better or worse just trying to let him know what's out there. And what is most prevalent in our area is SSQA

Also for information CASE IH has started making the Global System available on their loaders and I have seen them on the lots in our area......just be aware of which one you are getting if you buy...…
 

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