Recently I had to replace the valve stems on the BX1500 because they were cracked and dry rotted. Using the backhoe and a block of wood was the only way we could get tire beads broken, I'm sure there are other creative ways to do this.
In my experience, you have to roll forward while pushing down or it will flip the tire before breaking the bead.
Aaron Z
With our B7500 and a haywagon rim that I was putting a tube into, I rolled forward ~1.5" while I was pushing down on the tire to compensate for the arc of the loader going in toward the tractor as it goes down. The lip of the bucket then stayed on the bead and did not slip off like it was doing before I started rolling forward. You could also use the curl function to the the same thing.And to me that seems like an excellent way to damage what may be a very expensive rim....:laughing:
In addition to the FEL, I've also laid a tire & wheel down and driven a car or pickup onto the flat tire just as close to the rim as possible. That always worked, too.
Dad and I used to break the bead on tires (haywagons, baler, rake, truck, etc) with the hydraulic drawbar on the back of his Farmall 200. The fast hitch generates plenty of downforce- just place the tire to be "unmounted" flat on the ground centered under the drawbar. Place a block of wood (~12" 2x4) with 2 square ends at the edge of the rim and up against the underside of the drawbar. Slowly lower the drawbar and the sidewall will be pushed away from the bead! Be careful not to use too long a block of wood or keep pushing after the bead is broken as you will raise the rear of the tractor off the ground with the hydraulic!
Frank
I don't know if my Deere is typical of modern CUTS but my 3 point has no hydraulic down pressure.
Back in the day I used to break car tire beads with a bumper jack. Just put the edge of the base up against the rim and jack up on the rear bumper. Worked good.