These are the worst welds you have ever seen

[schmism]

. Should my head be 2'-3' away or closer?

2-3' away????

i know i get right up close and personal with my welding.... all the better to see that weld pool with, etc. with thin metals thats going to be a 1/4" in diam... very hard to see "at distance" thicker materials will have larger pools but still...

I like ot get up close and keep an eye on it as it were.... It might seem hot, but mig is like a warm glue gun compaired to tig... Ive roasted the hairs on arms with my neighbors sincrowave TIG.... (i was TRYING to stick some 1/2 AL plate together... damm AL takes a LOT of amps)

 

[thingy]

Don't worry men,I'm still here,,just waiting for the hard to answer type questions,[don't get fired up for just half a set],,,the poster is getting some good advise here,,,,thingy

 

[john_bud]

It's important to see the puddle and be able to alter your welding based on what you see. That's what I know, not what I can always do!

Equally important is to have the nozzle at the correct distance and angles to the work piece. And to be varying those angles to produce the needed weld quality. Again, I can say it better than I can do it! But it's a hobby for me.


For more practice, get some angle iron. Have it held "v" down by some rocks or whatever and weld along the bottom of the V. Lay down a bead 3" long. Inspect and repeat. Once you get comfortable laying down a consistent bead, start diddling with the settings to lean what affect they have and how they look, sound and all that. After you are getting good weld beads, make and angle with 2 pieces of flat stock by tacking the ends and welding them together.

Stuff you want (NEED) to buy. Spray on anti-spatter. Oh man is that nice stuff. Keeps the nozzle clean with just a quick whack. Also gets the splats off easier. Angle grinder 4 1/2", a selection of grinding and cutting discs and wire cup brushs. You will need to "unweld" and the grinder is your buddy! Chipping hammer, needle scaler from HF. Good leather gloves, leather apron and sleeves, Oh the list goes on.

And you may have thought the equipment was expensive!

jb

 

[BTDT]

Spray on anti-spatter.

Wonder if that would work on the missus? She gets to spoutin' off sometimes.

 

[HomeBrew2]

... Good leather gloves, leather apron and sleeves, ... jb

$13 at HF in the last mail flyer. Gloves are a little light weight but also comes with leather stick pouch ... pretty good quality.

 

[workinallthetime]

smell that? i think hes going to be building a tooth bar real soon, lol

 

[thingy]

Thats about the most obnoxious thing I could think of saying,regarding this topic,,,,see,I'm honest anyways?
Nah,,man just needs some practice,,,but you gotta see that puddle,[at least kinda see it, which is about what I'm doing nowadays],,,if you can see that melted moltan puddle at the end of your wire,,than,there you go,you are welding,,if you can't you are not welding,,,they got what they call cheater lenses that come in different magnifications,,I got a 2.5,,small lens,,or you can wear your glasses under hood,,but you gotta see that puddle,10 shade should be enough outside or even a 9,, inside you need darker,,yeah you need some thing other than bolt heads to practice on,plate,,,run just straight stringer type beads,,and get that gas set up going,,,basicly forget flux core for now,[if you can],and sounds like you got the equipement to make that possible,,, take a class somewheres,,votech or comm. college,,,you don't got to even finish it,,it'll just get you started maybe,,,thingy

 

[digger2]

I weld everyday for a living building pharmaceutical washing equipment.Been doing it for 33+ years.Mostly TIG,but do just about everything.
Anyway,as far as actually seeing the weld,if you wear bifocals,take them off and get some good reading glasses,that way when the arc starts you wont have to focus,your glasses will already be focused.
I myself would not go any lighter than a #10 shade lens.Also,if you are going to have your work lit up DO NOT have the light behind you as this will really mess you up when you put your hood down.You will get a real bad reflection and your eyes will be trying to focus on that,not the weld.
AUTO HOODS are O.K. i guess if you like them.Personally i could never get used to them.I myself like the 'BIG' lens hoods.It gives you more lens area to look at what you are doing.The lens area is more than twice the size of a standard lens hood.
Distance from weld-I think ideally about 18",ofcourse you cant always do that.
These are just my own opinions,theres plenty of advise here!!!!
P.S.-i can still hear my welding instructor when he veiwed MY first few beads
30 some years ago......"WOW"...He did not mean that in a good way.
Keep practicing....and good luck.
digger2

 

[MikeD74T]

The helmet is not self darkening. It has the flip down #10 lens about 2"x4". I was wearing plastic lens no line bifocals under the helmet. I can't see without them. quote]

Welding supply houses have magnifying lenses for your helmet. They're cheap. You'll like it better than using your glasses. MikeD74T

 

[CharlieTR]

Just from my humble experience, I think I would stick to the regular helmet you have or go with a bigger lens someday. The auto dark ones are really best for stick welders that are harder to start than flux core or MIG. Just get the wire close and pull the trigger to start.

Always wear a respirator for the fumes and have a fan lightly blowing the fumes away from you.