Thinking of upgrading .

NIXON · Feb 16, 2005

Frank , thats sound advice . It's definately what I plan on doing .
If the price seems out of reason , I'll probably let the whole matter just go .,and adjust my expectations . John

_RaT_ · Feb 16, 2005

Here's what my dealer said.

You will get the most if you sell it yourself, plus, buyers won't pay sales tax, we will have to charge it. Expect about 10 to 15% less for it then what you paid new. That's providing it looks good. Folks will pay more for a scratch free, dent free tractor and it will be easier to sell. I think about my own attitude and must admit, that makes sense no matter how superficial it is. Get an idea what your dealer would offer, find out what you paid for it and see if it's in that range. I would doubt it. They will typically want to see the tractor.

PSDF350 · Feb 16, 2005

one thing to take into consideration (not sure if true). but i got impression from one dealership that you might get a better deal % wise taking off list price. if you have something to trade in.

jmc · Feb 16, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( " If I'm going to upgrade the loader ..... I might as well spend the money to get a few more ponies in case I see a BH in my future" /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )</font>

Unless you get a backhoe with its own PTO driven hydraulic pump, I don't think those extra ponies will do you much good since it looks like both the 3130 and 3430 have the same hydraulic pump (8.3 gpm).

In indiana, we pay sales tax on the difference between the new tractor and trade in. So if I sell it outright, I need to get at least 6% more than the dealer would allow for the trade just to break even, since I'll be paying 6% of the entire new tractor price.

John

cj7 · Feb 18, 2005

It is good that you are making sure you have the right machine before you build a garage for it! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

NIXON · Feb 19, 2005

Nice one Rick !! I know where You live /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif John

bugstruck · Feb 19, 2005

Those ponies would help move the BH90 and the tractor around with the added weight. Have to agree with that. Wouldn't do anything to improve the BH performance though. Same hydro pump volume through the 3830 and even a 5030 wouldn't do anything for the BH operation on the power side. Just make it a little faster (it's plenty fast on a 3130), assuming all are running the same pressures.

Honestly, I'd swap out the loader, keep the tractor. Bought my 3130 in December last and it was 1,500.00 more for the 3430 and another 1,000.00 to step from there to the 3830. So wasn't allot of incentive to stop halfway. 3130 or 3830 would be my choice from where you are too. IMO the BH90 with the 723 will make the 3430 struggle more on inclines than the 3130 does now with the 513. If you load tires (it's heavy) like I did, mine struggles on any real incline in all but low range. The 3430 isn't enough to make that situtation more than perceptably better. The 3830 is a 20% power increase. That should be a real seat of the pants improvement. If I were doing it again my buy would be the 4330 or the 4630 with my configuration. Maybe in a few years /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The 723 is very strong for a tractor in this class. Little weak on downpressure but strong up. Can't explain that except to say it lifts everything I throw at it but it can't lift the front tires off the ground. No real matter on that though.

Bet you can work a swap on that 513 if your patient.

_RaT_ · Feb 19, 2005

If you cannot lift the tires off the ground, something is wrong. Mine can very, very easily lift the tires off the ground. Even at idle, it doesn't even know there is a load. It will easily do it with the toothbar on as well which is not that big of a deal other then it looses a little leverage. I put a permanent pressure gauge on mine on the joystick for the dump. The pressure is right on the money.

bugstruck · Feb 20, 2005

Rat, Roger that. I assume your doing that with the bucket already rolled, using the lift arm cylinders?? Seems that would be the max. lift capability?? I wasn't sure but it seemed like with the up power it has that lifting the tires would be gravy for it. Mine won't do it throttled up either. I know the rod side of a cylinder has less force but wouldn't think that much less. I'll have them check it at the 50 hr. In the event I get some time to rig up a gauge, which isn't likely at the moment, what pressures should I be seeing?

Appreciate the info. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Regards,