This Goes Against All What I Have Known....

[flyingcow]

IMO, only crack your throttle 1/2,1/4 or what ever, but as soon as it starts, especially in the cold(for me thats below 10 degrees) Pull your throttle back to low idle. In my old iron you always put the fuel to it until it starts, immediatly pull back throttle once it starts kickn'

 

[RADIUM]

I'm kind of curious, why you guys are raising the throttle on modern high-pressure injected tractors to start them? On my 2420, and it lives outside year-round no way of building a new barn in this economy, I hit the glow plugs twice, and she starts right up at low throttle after about a minute I raised the idle to about 1200 RPM. We get pretty cold up here in upstate New York in February -15 below for days, and I've started right up, now of course I use cut fuel with power service to help control the gelling I've never used the block heater yet, and I run New Holland 0-40w full synthetic oil, the only problem I have is with the hydraulic system it takes a long time to warm up so I usually turn the PTO on right away and let it spin the snowblower slow. The only other thing I would do next year is change the hydraulic fluid to a full synthetic for this cold climate. Take care

 

[beppington]

I'm kind of curious, why you guys are raising the throttle on modern high-pressure injected tractors to start them?

I haven't been doing it, but as I stated above, my manual says to.

And, that's in the "regular" starting section; It also has a "Cold Weather Starting" (below 23 degrees) section. Only difference is waiting until the glow plug light goes off before cranking.

 

[RADIUM]

Okay that makes sense. I'm wondering if anyone's had trouble starting their tractor at low throttle setting? Like I said earlier, older tractors required a throttle increase for the mechanical Rotary diesel fuel pump, plus a shot of ether to get those old folks going take care

 

[Leemac]

Bought 1320- new in 1998 and I sure as h--- don't remember reading THIS.

NH 1320 Manual states

Warm starts-Move the hand throttle forward to a "near" full open position.

Cold Weather Starting.Move the hand throttle forward to the "wide-open" position.

Below 23F or -5C, Hold the key switch to HEAT for approx 10 seconds.

Normally the light will go out after 4 seconds.

Guess I'll try this the next time.

 

[sweep]

Okay that makes sense. I'm wondering if anyone's had trouble starting their tractor at low throttle setting?

My Tc45A starts within miliseconds of turning the key at the lowest throttle.
In the dead of winter it may take a another 1/2 a second but that's it. Engine knocks like a banshee when it's 15-20 degrees out or so until it get's warmed up.

My manual say's to start it up at 1/3 throttle which again goes all against I have known especially when an engine is cold.

As some other posters have said some start it at the higher throttle and then immediately throttle back to the lowest throttle setting.

I distrust my manual to a degree. For instance one section gives you wheel lug torque setting at one setting and in another section-same wheel the setting are different. I have found numerous contradicting info in my manual.


It sure is frustrating...

 

[sweep]

Cold Weather Starting.Move the hand throttle forward to the "wide-open" position.

Below 23F or -5C, Hold the key switch to HEAT for approx 10 seconds.

Normally the light will go out after 4 seconds.

Guess I'll try this the next time.

inb4 rod exits the block this winter when it's 10 degrees outside.....

Just kidding of course.

 

[jinman]

Bear in mind that operator's manuals are probably written by a tech writer who has never seen a tractor, much less operated one. Somebody probably told them that the fuel lever should be 1/4 to 1/3 open and that's just what they wrote. Nobody explained to them that once the tractor fires, it is no longer "starting" and then you should use your own judgement the same as during any other operation. Pull the throttle back for the desired rpm. Surely the person who wrote those manuals is also the same mentality as the person who decided that our diesel fuel cans needed to be ventless and have a lever with a special lock so that it is nearly impossible to use without spilling fuel onto the ground and getting only a trickle of fuel when you do it according to instructions.

I set my throttle just off the low idle stop. When my engine starts, it jumps up to about 1200 rpm and then drops back to 800 when cold and bounces around a couple of times before settling at 1000 rpm. By my calculations, since full 540 rpm is about 2600, full 1/4 throttle would be 1400 rpm. I don't know about you, but I couldn't reliably set my throttle and get exactly 1400 rpm 1 time out a 1000. I'm not gonna lose any sleep over it either.

 

[beenthere]

I wouldn't lose any sleep over it either.

I suspect their is a recommendation for throttle setting just 'cause they felt one was needed, rather than leave it un-answered.

There is so much fluff added to the manuals, that a little more is just that...fluff.

I do think more attention needs to be paid to some of the mistakes and contradictions made in manuals.

And I'm all for having them in one language. Save the paper and hand one out in French or Spanish when/where the need exists.

 

[BeeferMan]

My .02 wort, it's all about oil. Start it like you want, what works best, but once it starts the throttle should be set to a high idle, warm weather or cold. Most engines have pretty low oil pressure at idle, rises pretty quickly when going to say 1/3 throttle.

That's how I was taught. Very similar to first firing up a newly rebuilt motor - at periods of high wear and high stress you want plenty of oil.