This is NOT a coffee cup!

[Harv]

MarkC -

Stuff should be here soon.

Stick around...

 

[bpence]

A quick update on cost and availability of Aladdin cups.

First-you can get these cups in just about any color imaginable.

Second-you can get these cups in a variety of sizes - 20 oz for $2.50 ea, 34 oz for $2.75 ea, 48 oz for $3.00 ea, 54 oz for $3.25 ea. These are bulk wholesale prices. Could do better with a sizeable order and/or some negotiation-I haven't tried, yet.

As far as doing some cool logos, there are logo police at each of the tractor manufacturers and any use of their trademarks would have to be worked out with them individually.....probably a licensing fee involved, too. But, as far as a tractor image, if someone were interested, I have one being drawn (I may have another use for anyway) that the artist promises me will look absolutely terrific colored in orange, blue, green, yellow or any other color. Kind of a tough looking compact with a front loader, aggressive tires, and a couple of big lights on the ROPS. A blend, if you will, of Kubota, NH, and JD larger compacts into one look. Cost to put on the cup is almost nothing if held to two/three colors.

My contact at the supplier is getting me a full line Aladdin catalog since he thought there were a variety of lids available for this style cup. He was pretty sure there was at least one he could recall that would be just right for the application I described to him.

More to follow later.

You know, even though it may appear boring,this is getting kind of fun.



Bob Pence

 

[MChalkley]

Bob - Cool! Keep us posted.

MarkC

 

[Harv]

Just when you thought this thread was dead --

I received the hi-tech glue (PolyBond 33) from the NBond company a couple of weeks ago. This is the stuff that is formulated specifically to bond with polypropylene (like Chalkley Cups are made of) and polyethylene.

The recommended gluing process sounded complicated at first 'cuz it involved the use of a propane torch. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif But it turns out to be quite simple -- you prep the plastic surface with just a few light passes out at the end of the torch flame (this has to do with oxygenation, not heat), and then a pretty good up-close blast to remove any possible parting agents or other foreign materials left over from the manufacturing process. This time the heat does affect the plastic, making it more "willing" to bond when this glue is applied.

Interestingly, after the torching you have up to 3 days to do your gluing before the plastic settles down and has to be torched again. A complete explanation comes along with the instructions.

The glue itself is a 2-part epoxy-like goop which comes in an applicator similar to what you might be used to with other epoxy glues plus a couple of truly nifty applicator tips that mix the 2 parts together on the fly. At first I thought this was wasteful 'cuz the tip must be discarded after each use, along with the mixed glue that's left over inside it. But when I actually started using it, I realized how nice it was to not have to worry about how much to mix ahead of time. Since it's mixed on the fly, you just just keep squirting it out until the job is finished. You use exactly as much as you need and what's left in the tip is really quite small.

Having said all that, being the clutz that I am, I put a little too much on the cup before I set the magnets in place, so the overflow practically filled that round recess where we're sticking them on. I thought it looked tacky, so I went ahead and filled it the rest of the way up. Like anybody's going to see the bottom of my cup while I'm tractorin' out in the middle of the woods. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

It's a slooooowwwwwwww-curing glue -- firm in 24 hours, mostly cured in 48. I didn't apply any stress for 72 hours. Getting cautious in my old age.

For my field tests I spent most of 3 days bouncing my tractor around, alternating between my NBond cup and my Amazing Goop cup which had been curing for several weeks (I'm not that patient -- it was just circumstances). At the end of the 3 days both cups were still perfectly intact. Only time will tell the real story, I guess.

One thing I can tell you is that the pair of #41 ForceField magnets have terrific gripping strength, holding a fully-loaded 52-oz Chalkley Cup so solidly to the fender that no amount of bouncing or vibration has the slightest effect on the cup. I even accidently banged the cup with my elbow once and it didn't budge, yet lifting up on the handle effectively prys it off with little effort.

This may be my last posting on the subject, at least until one of the glues fails. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Boring pictures attached.

 

[MChalkley]

Harv - Now that's my idea of a progress report. Nice pics, too. (I just love anything that has "FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY" stamped on it.) That sounds like the stuff to get. I'm definitely going to get some of that stuff if the excellent results continue. How did the Goop version work? Thanks again for all the details...

MarkC

 

[Harv]

Mark -

The Goop version is holding up fine so far.

I suppose if I was really serious about this I would just keep attaching and pulling the cups off over and over until something breaks, but for now I'm just happy to use them. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[toddler]

Believe it or not, I just read that entire post, with the expectation I'd find an address or web site to order an orange cup from. No such luck.

Soooooo? You guys gonna market this?

Todd

 

[Harv]

Todd -

If you read this entire thread, you NEED a giant cup o' coffee! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

I think we've gone about as far as we're going to with the cups. It was more of an R&D project -- we're not much into marketing and/or mass production.

At least you now have the knowledge to build one yourself, and maybe even add some touches of your own. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[MChalkley]

By request (via e-mail), this is just a repost of the original cup pic.

MarkC

 

[MChalkley]

Repost of first pic of bottom.

MarkC