I believe the standard setup is for the unit to run at 2400 rpm instead of 3600 rpm at test. I have had my 20kw for almost three years, gone through multiple major outages, and the unit has run flawlessly. I have not heard any misfires during the test, but haven't been very close to it to hear it well either. The unit burns zero oil, the air filter is never dirty, and I change the oil with Mobil 1 and a new oil filter every Spring. The motor compartment still looks new, and the readout, after an initial low battery issue, has read "ready to run" ever since. I agree with annual transfer switch testing; that's a big solenoid in there and it makes a pretty good clank when it moves. And you want to make sure it moves...
I really don't think you can hurt the unit; the interface is pretty smart. Just rocker the switch off auto and start it on "manual" if you wish. I do that before changing the oil every year. And btw, Wix makes a fine replacement oil filter...
I run on propane, two large bottles, and after three days of running, the fuel meter only showed a drop from 75 (80 is full) to 60, so the thing is pretty efficient for our purposes. We have an all electric house and when the heat pump kicks on, we can hear the gen groan and the lights flicker once in a while. I've now learned to turn the hot water heater off during long outages, and that has helped, as we have three fridge/freezers.
Engine starts at 9 seconds and the lights come on at 16 seconds, every single time. And so far, no odd noises. Your installer should be able to go through the test procedure with you in about two minutes. If he isn't sure, you need a different guy. And i would definitely pop off the air cleaner and look down in there to make sure the fuel switch is in the right position. Seems every Tom, Dick and Harry is now a "backup home generator" installer, after our last storm. And most electricians don't understand the propane/LNG regulator issues, so it becomes a pointing match between the installer and the gas people.