Thoughts on a cold weather visit to the dealer

[Bird]

Frank, there are some different kinds of power steering on different tractors. When a neighbor bought an old used Oliver, the first morning he started to use it when it was cold outside (probably wouldn't have seemed cold to you, but cold for Central Texas), he started it up, put it in gear, started to move, and found he could turn the steering wheel alright, but the wheels didn't turn. He left the engine running while he went back in the house and called the dealer. The only thing the dealer asked was "how long did you let it warm up?" By the time the guy got off the phone and went back outside, the steering worked fine.

 

[circleTfarm]

dealer is right all hst equipment needs to be operated at high rpm (full throtle) it does take some getting use to,, hst pump needs the high rpm's to keep the pressure up at operation standards, thats not to say that you can't operate at lower rpm's but it will shorten the life of your hydrostatic pump.. I have had to have pumps replaced because of operators trying to slow machine down by lowering rpm's instead of moving controls easier and slower . /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[daTeacha]

I have a couple of places where I need no more than 7 feet of height. A folding ROPS sounds like a solution, but one of those places is where I clean out the barn and immediately upon exiting the barn, usually in reverse, I'm on a sidehill on slippery "used hay", so I definitely want the maximum height of whatever I buy to be 84". I also have narrow places, so much so that a 54" bucket would be inconvenient or impossible without changing the way things around the barn are set up.

Bottom line is I need a pretty small tractor. The DX33 is about as physically large as I want to get. The sales guy keeps point me at a D40, which he says is the best buy on the lot, but it's way too big for my use.

Since my Massey dealer isn't interested in stocking compacts Massey's, what Agco is the equivalent, the ST33? A drawback I noticed on the smaller STs is the glass fuel filter hanging low on the right side. I'd most likely break it with a branch or something while working in the woods, which would be unpleasant. Do the larger ones have the same thing?

 

[RalphVa]

The Case seems to one of the few where you could use the cruise control and still use the steering brakes. Think on most models, if you hit any of the brakes that the cruise will go off.

One of my criteria when I selected my tractor was to fit underneath my main carriage house door and underneath the double doors in its basement, without having to remember to unfold the ROPS. Both the JD 2210 and 4010 fit this requirement. A 4110 with fixed ROPS probably would, too. Not sure if the 4115 is offered with fixed ROPS, if you wanted to go up a little more in hp with a CUT.

I've owned diesel cars since 1978. They'll all not idle when first started unless you raise the idle speed. When it's really cold (like -20 F), they start better with the throttle wide open and then only let up on the throttle when they start to want to rev (of course, not letting it rev to full rpm, only keeping the throttle open until it's smooth enough to want to rev; then it'll generally fast idle). Haven't used full throttle yet to start my JD, but it won't start and continue unless the throttle is set to idle it around 1500 rpm. The colder the weather, the more open the throttle will need to be to reach that speed on startup.

Ralph

 

[Toolguy]

Regarding cold weather starting of diesels, I have found that they are all different. I have a 1998 truck with a mechanical pump 5.9L Cummins. It does not have glow plugs or an intake air heater. It will not start below 25* unless the block heater is plugged in. Even at 30* it will not start unless you depress the throttle just a little. Then, it fires right up and runs rough for a few seconds before it smooths out. At 40* or above you just need to hit the key and it will take off, with no need to give it extra throttle. On my Kubota B3030, I have found the best way to start it when cold is to leave the throttle at idle and use the glow plugs for 7 to 10 seconds. It will also run a little rough for a few seconds before smoothing out. It does not like having the throttle opened above idle. It rattles, runs rough and blows white smoke unless the throttle is all the way closed. The bottom line is that they each have there own preference for starting when cold and once you figure it out they should start every time.

 

[daTeacha]

I wasn't complaining about the DX26, just commenting. I held the key at the glow plug position until the light went out, had about 1/4 throttle set, and it started and died.

My B7100 has the old style glow plugs. I need to turn the key counterclockwise, wait while the indicator coil warms up, then hold it there for at least 20 or 30 seconds, then crank it a while and it'll start. Last winter when it was -20 or so, I hooked up two batteries in series and two chargers in series but parallel to the batteries, effectively the equivalent of a 24 volt system if it was warm. It took about 15 minutes of messing around, but I got the thing started. A block heater will be a definite consideration when I upgrade. BTW, I store all my equipment under roof and out of the weather. There is just too much money involved to let the stuff sit in the sun, wind, rain, and snow, not to mention the various materials deposited on it by the wildlife. My dog is bad enough!

 

[gowings]

Even though I live in New Mexico, and most don't think it get's cold here. Im at 8200ft mountain cold, what I do with my Kubota is wrap the engine area with a concrete blanket. I have had no problems, Not stored in shelter besides a very heavy canvas tarp, worth the money.

 

[thcri]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I wasn't complaining about the DX26, just commenting. I held the key at the glow plug position until the light went out, had about 1/4 throttle set, and it started and died. )</font>



If the DX26 is like my TC29 the New Holland version then you didn't hold the glow plug long enough. That light only stays on for a predetermined time, even though the light goes off the plugs stay on. When it is down to 5 degrees you would have to hold it for ten seconds or so. But the light will only stay on for 4 seconds roughly.

That is why it started but did not stay running.

murph


And yes your whole original thread looks like to me you are complaining about the DX26. If you don't like it, don't buy it. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[daTeacha]

I guess I need to wonder why the salesman didn't know that about the light. Every time I've talked with them, the sales guys say to just hold the key 'til the light goes out and then start the tractor. You're telling me something different. Is there any indicator for when the glow plugs are hot enough? On my 'bota, the indicator is more or less a 4th glow plug in the dash. It's a thick wire that glows red as the current flows through it. You hold the key in the preheat position, wait for the thing to glow, count to 20 or 30 or so if it's cold, then crank it. I guess I don't understand the reason for the light if it goes out at a preset time and doesn't let you know the engine is ready to start.

I think I'm trying to convince myself the Case is the way I should jump, despite what you thought about my post. When I started this adventure, I was more or less convinced that I just wanted a bigger Kubota, but I seem to be finding out that the more I learn, the less I know. All the ergonomic things were not part of the picture at the start. The differences in weight for tractors of about the same size was not something I thought about, either. In truth, I had originally started out just looking for a used machine a bit bigger and more stable than what I have, but around here there is no such thing. Everyone that has a compact with a loader keeps it! The dealers have 20 or 30 people on lists waiting for something used to come along. So, I found myself thinking new tractor and then the fun began!

The dealer is one with whom I've worked for years with my Cadet mower and Kubota B7100. I can get "A" plan pricing on a Case or NH, so that swayed me away from Kubota, especially after I sat on a couple tractors and played with controls. I think more than anything else I was expressing my disappointment at the faults I noticed in the Cases and was hoping someone would be able to explain them away.

The pedal thing is a major problem, enough to make me think gear tractor instead of HST if I go with Case. I use the steering brakes quite a bit, and would like to be able to modify my ground speed while turning and using the brake. If I go gear drive, shuttle shift would be very nice since I do a lot with the loader. Right now, I shift from 2nd to R low, to R high, to 4th every time I pick up a load from a pile.

The steering was just a surprize. I just figured a power steering system should be able to break the tires free from being frozen into the sod. With the non-assisted mechanical steering on my Kubota or Cadet, I just crank the wheel harder and the tires turn. The fact that the steering wheel turned and the tires didn't was just odd. Having since learned that tractors use a purely hydraulic system instead of power assist on a mechanical system explains why it happens that way, but still leaves me wondering about getting the wheels stuck between two logs or something while not wanting to go straight forward or backward.

I have strict height limits in a situation where a folding ROPS would have to be up, unless placing a secondary cross bar just below the hinge point would keep the thing from bending in case the unthinkable awful happened while it was folded. The topography in question would land the tractor on its side, but not on its top, so a reinforced folding ROPS might work. I'm sure the manufacturer would have all kinds of reasons to not do something like that, however. What do you guys think?

 

[kozak]

I have a retraction to make from my earlier post. Did'nt proof read my response carefully enough. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I really don't care about the brake being on the same side as I do not use the brake the way you would for tight turns as I have supersteer. In fact, I never use my brake except to put it in park or when I want to get off the tractor & keep it running.

If the Dealership has a NH Tractor on the lot with SUPERsteer try it out.....you may be suprised. That way, will not need to use brake for steering & will not have to do all that shifting for FEL work if you go with HST.