Thoughts on a PTO tiller & uses?

[Fuddyduddy1952]

I have a 40hp Deere, FEL & backhoe, lots of attachments but I'm considering a PTO tiller.
One area I have, about an acre, is on about a 20 to 25 degree slope. I'd like to get it as level as I can, it's near woods and had lots of waist-high scrub pines and cedars which I used my 5ft bucket & tooth bar uprooting & piling downhill...edge of woods where it gets very steep. I tried bucket, backhoe and 7ft rear blade but nothing works well for leveling.
It seems like with a tiller I could loosen soil, then back blade work it downhill, etc. in passes. I'm guessing when finished I'd have about a 3ft drop-off at top, 3ft bank at bottom.
Area is a long rectangle.
If a tiller would work, what's a good brand? It would only get about 50 hrs use a year.
It also could be used for a small garden.
Another idea is would I be ahead just paying someone? I'm guessing an excavator would charge about what a tiller costs...but it would be better than if I did it.
One part possibly a for a 120'x60' riding ring, another planting Christmas trees.
Thanks.

 

[jyoutz]

I don’t think a tiller would work if you have very large roots in the soil; small roots yes. I had a Woods brand tiller for over 25 years and I bought it used from an equipment rental company. It never gave me any problems and I beat that thing on hard clay ground with small rocks. I think that any of the reputable implement companies would make good tillers. Be sure and get one a bit wider than your wheel track. Mine was a chain drive, but some companies like King Kutter offer gear drive models; probably more durable, but more costly to repair if you snap a gear tooth. Mine had a slip clutch driveline instead of a shear bolt and I think the slip clutch is better if you’re hitting rocks or roots.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

A chain drive tiller is only less durable IF you buy a cheapo tiller with an undersized chain to begin with!

GOOD tillers are expensive.

SR

 

[bigtiller]

I have a 40hp Deere, FEL & backhoe, lots of attachments but I'm considering a PTO tiller.
One area I have, about an acre, is on about a 20 to 25 degree slope. I'd like to get it as level as I can, it's near woods and had lots of waist-high scrub pines and cedars which I used my 5ft bucket & tooth bar uprooting & piling downhill...edge of woods where it gets very steep. I tried bucket, backhoe and 7ft rear blade but nothing works well for leveling.
It seems like with a tiller I could loosen soil, then back blade work it downhill, etc. in passes. I'm guessing when finished I'd have about a 3ft drop-off at top, 3ft bank at bottom.
Area is a long rectangle.
If a tiller would work, what's a good brand? It would only get about 50 hrs use a year.
It also could be used for a small garden.
Another idea is would I be ahead just paying someone? I'm guessing an excavator would charge about what a tiller costs...but it would be better than if I did it.
One part possibly a for a 120'x60' riding ring, another planting Christmas trees.
Thanks.

I tilled a customers garden for 5 years that was on a 20 degree slope. It was extra work for me to keep the soil in the garden and not sliding down hill and creating a dead furrow on the uphill side.

So I think if you tilled driving only up hill, the soil will move down mostly on its own. To help force it downhill, move the steering wheel half a turn back & forth, forcing the tiller to wiggle back & forth.

Kinda like a woman swinging her money maker, as you watch her walk away.

A forward tine travel tiller would be best for this job....Any brand will do. They all will probably out live both of us.

 

[CalG]

A blade, straight or box, is the tool to "terrace". Box blades usually have ripper tines that work soil and roots.

A small box blade (loading considerations, soil is HEAVY!) is my choice.

BTDT!

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

A blade, straight or box, is the tool to "terrace". Box blades usually have ripper tines that work soil and roots.

A small box blade (loading considerations, soil is HEAVY!) is my choice.

BTDT!

As I was writing I thought about a box blade.
I wonder if that would be better than a tiller?

 

[jyoutz]

As I was writing I thought about a box blade.
I wonder if that would be better than a tiller?

I wouldn’t buy a tiller unless you plan to do a garden annually or are establishing a large lawn.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

There are places on my land like a pasture that's not all that steep, but an area maybe 300ft long that drops 2ft then continues. So bush hogging I go straight downhill then if I don't lift deck it scalps. I'm thinking about tiller I could work that area then level with rear blade so pasture would all be even (15°-20° slope). Of course, seed area.
Picture is area I'd like level. I held camera level and I'd leave those large poplars but remove cedars beyond, now they're 6" at base.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

I'm thinking with the 7ft backblade I wouldn't need a box blade. I know it doesn't have rippers but it's super heavy duty and adjustable every direction and hydraulic top link. For my purposes wouldn't a tiller be more useful? I could till high spots, then grade it smooth.
I tried bucket, then toothed bucket, etc. and it doesn't work well.

 

[nybirdman]

IMHO,a tiller does not well unless you remove the vegetation and plow.I think a heavy box blade with scarifiers would be a better choice.