Thoughts on this trailer setup and my needs please......

[3Ts]

I've towed a ~10,000# bumper pull camping trailer with a GMC 2500 and an 8.1 engine and allison transmission at 11,000 feet elevation and steeper grades than I was expecting. No turbo-charger. It got the job done, safely. I did have a concern at times if it was going to make it over the next ridge, but as long as I wasn't in a hurry we always made it. I'd be more concerned about braking than making it up the hill.

 

[sawtooth]

I've towed a ~10,000# bumper pull camping trailer with a GMC 2500 and an 8.1 engine and allison transmission at 11,000 feet elevation and steeper grades than I was expecting. No turbo-charger. It got the job done, safely. I did have a concern at times if it was going to make it over the next ridge, but as long as I wasn't in a hurry we always made it. I'd be more concerned about braking than making it up the hill.

Ok good to know. With the Duramax plus engine braking I’m sure that will help some. So how did the trailer feel overall? Besides braking and pulling power did it feel like you were in control of all that weight? Or were you being pushed and bumped around leaving you with a uneasy feeling? From my experience the quality of the trailer and how the load is positioned can be a huge factor too.

 

[3Ts]

Ok good to know. With the Duramax plus engine braking I知 sure that will help some. So how did the trailer feel overall? Besides braking and pulling power did it feel like you were in control of all that weight? Or were you being pushed and bumped around leaving you with a uneasy feeling? From my experience the quality of the trailer and how the load is positioned can be a huge factor too.

The trailer hitch setup is a class 5 Reese equilizer with the dual cam sway control. The tongue weight is about 1600# and I weigh the trailer periodically and I have a hydraulic scale to measure the tongue weight. So, I pay a lot of attention to weight and balance. The trailer is affected by wind (cross wind and from semis that pass) so you have to watch for that. The way the trailer affects the travel is more like a really long underpowered car. I used to drive a VW bug back when I was a teenager and that is similar. Plan ahead for acceleration, merging, and allow lots of room in front of you for braking. That means cars will cut in front of you. Just let them do it and back off a little more, then repeat when the next one cuts in. You will find that after several miles, they haven't gotten more than a couple car lengths ahead of you. Be sure the trailer brakes are good AND adjusted properly. The brake setting is different between an empty and loaded trailer. If everything is setup right, you won't notice it back there, but don't forget it's there.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Reread you post and never did see the axle ratings.
A starting point for trailering is axle ratings. Are they 7k axles? One could surmise yes, but assumption is not the way to go.
I-beam size demonstrates duty/strength no doubt but axle rating is what the trailer will be titled for. Axle rating plus trailer title weight will then tell you what your carrying capacity will be.
Surprised no one brought that up.
Check your GVWR on the driver side sticker or look up your vin number on the GM site to see what your truck is specifically rated for. Trim levels bed size and so many options will create a different rating for each specific truck.
Then also would recommend going to local feed store and pay the few bucks to get your truck on the scale and get it recorded.
Repeat once you've acquired your trailer to see your total GCVW....you'll have the data to make adjustments.
Regards....

 

[4570Man]

Ok good to know. With the Duramax plus engine braking I’m sure that will help some. So how did the trailer feel overall? Besides braking and pulling power did it feel like you were in control of all that weight? Or were you being pushed and bumped around leaving you with a uneasy feeling? From my experience the quality of the trailer and how the load is positioned can be a huge factor too.

I’ve pulled over double that much with a Duramax and a Allison on a GN. There’s zero sway and I can load the hitch as heavy as a want without compromising the truck steering. There’s no way I’d put the backhoe on my current pintle hook trailer and pull it with the 1 ton truck. A BP is a much less stable rig and a lot more sensitive to loading. ATTACH]608170[/ATTACH]

 

[rangerfredbob]

As long as they are 6000lb axles or more it should work out fine... there's some safety factor involved. Not that I'm recommending it but I towed a 14k pound tractor on a trailer with two 6k pound axles and was less tongue weight than optimal (got a little wobbly around 55) but that was only around 30 miles from the auction house to home... kept the speed at 45-50 most of the time and just took it easy, worked out fine, the trailer tire I took out on that trip wasn't related to the weight but the flat inner tire on the tractor rear dual... I would not recommend what I did if it was a longer distance or often at all, was a one time deal...

 

[jaxs]

As long as they are 6000lb axles or more it should work out fine... there's some safety factor involved. Not that I'm recommending it but I towed a 14k pound tractor on a trailer with two 6k pound axles and was less tongue weight than optimal (got a little wobbly around 55) but that was only around 30 miles from the auction house to home... kept the speed at 45-50 most of the time and just took it easy, worked out fine, the trailer tire I took out on that trip wasn't related to the weight but the flat inner tire on the tractor rear dual... I would not recommend what I did if it was a longer distance or often at all, was a one time deal...

I totally agree,hauling a tractor with a flat tire on it is risky business. Anything can happen.:confused3:

 

[sawtooth]

Reread you post and never did see the axle ratings.
A starting point for trailering is axle ratings. Are they 7k axles? One could surmise yes, but assumption is not the way to go.
I-beam size demonstrates duty/strength no doubt but axle rating is what the trailer will be titled for. Axle rating plus trailer title weight will then tell you what your carrying capacity will be.
Surprised no one brought that up.
Check your GVWR on the driver side sticker or look up your vin number on the GM site to see what your truck is specifically rated for. Trim levels bed size and so many options will create a different rating for each specific truck.
Then also would recommend going to local feed store and pay the few bucks to get your truck on the scale and get it recorded.
Repeat once you've acquired your trailer to see your total GCVW....you'll have the data to make adjustments.
Regards....

Yes they are 7k axles. On a side note the dealer told me today that if I go with PJ’s 2 5/16 HD hitch the trailer will be titled at like 16k as this assumes 2k is on the truck. Never heard that one before but they are going to show me next week when I stop by.

 

[1010]

A GN will be much easier on the truck, No way I'd want to pull that kinda of weight with a BP. Not saying won't, but a GN would be more stable.

The truck you have isn't the issue here, it will pull a house.. I used BP for years till I saw the light and got a GN..

 

[zzvyb6]

I would not be a fan of your proposed BP trailer. The axles are too far rearward. That (to me) means that an odd (concentrated) load is what it's designed to carry. (like a small excavator). Otherwise, the bumper or even the GN hitch weight is disproportionally high. If a 10-15% tongue load requirement is wanted for stability and equilizer bar settings are made to produce a level truck AND trailer frame, either the truck load will be huge or the trailer payload must be set to the back over the axles. A lot of wasted space if you axle me...

Do the Math !