Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Thoughts on which valve to use for blade angling

[eds01]

I'm looking at getting a FEL mounted front blade. I'm trying to decide whether to run hydraulic hoses to the bucket control valve and use the loader joystick for angling the front blade, or run hoses all the way to the rear remote. One dealer says using the loader joystick is the way to go because once the blade is mounted level I only need the functions of using the loader arms and angling the blade. A different dealer says go to the rear remote because I'll need to use the roll control on the blade. Just wondering what advice and opinions you guys have?

 

[r40kh]

I have mine with the up/down and the power angle on the loader control valve which is what gets used the most when plowing. I also have the curl control connected to one of my rear remote valves. The curl comes in handy if you get stuck and want to push yourself out

 

[duroc]

I'm looking at getting a FEL mounted front blade. I'm trying to decide whether to run hydraulic hoses to the bucket control valve and use the loader joystick for angling the front blade, or run hoses all the way to the rear remote. One dealer says using the loader joystick is the way to go because once the blade is mounted level I only need the functions of using the loader arms and angling the blade. A different dealer says go to the rear remote because I'll need to use the roll control on the blade. Just wondering what advice and opinions you guys have?

This (bold print) is how mine is set up, and it it works great.

I have yet to see where you (I) would *need* to use the "roll control on the blade." Try it with the joystick...you can always change it to the rear remotes later if you don't like it.

 

[eds01]

I have mine with the up/down and the power angle on the loader control valve which is what gets used the most when plowing. I also have the curl control connected to one of my rear remote valves. The curl comes in handy if you get stuck and want to push yourself out

I like this idea. I prefer to run the power angle from the joystick only because its better positioned for operator use than the value for the rear remote. At this point, I'll probably just run the blade hoses to the loader control valve. If I get into a situation where the curl would have come in handy, I can finish the set-up by routing to the rear remote. Thanks!

 

[zzvyb6]

That is what I use. BUT:

I used brake hydraulic hoses to lower the flow rate to the Fisher cylinders. Even so, the blade swings so fast that you can actually toss snow sideways if necessary. It also may save the seals in the cylinders because I'm making use of higher pressure that the truck based cylinders were meant for.

 

[DABSGT]

My plow is also hooked to the FEL and use the joy stick. In mast cases you can use the angle if you get stuck. Haven't found a time when I would have used the roll.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[RickB]

I have mine with the up/down and the power angle on the loader control valve which is what gets used the most when plowing. I also have the curl control connected to one of my rear remote valves. The curl comes in handy if you get stuck and want to push yourself out

I really like this approach; the convenience of the joystick for L/R angling which is instantly intuitive, and the convenience of blade pitch adjustment capability, which is occasionally necessary.

 

[r40kh]

The other thing I need the curl option for is that my tractor won't fit in my garage unless I curl it down. I don't get stuck very often...only a couple of times...but it was nice to just curl the blade and gently push myself out. I would absolutely die of embarrassment if my neighbor with the green paint had to come pull me out!

 

[wolfpack2]

There is another option. Install a solenoid valve and switch between curl and angle using the same control.

I have found the curl function to be handy when pushing back banks. It allows the blade to be parallel to the bank and not ride up on the frame. Also, if you curl cylinders settle/drift, you will need to be able to occasionally adjust them. What I would really like is a float position on the curl cylinders to allow the blade to follow the ground contour. My blade is rigid to the QA (no chain) and does not float. It has the trip springs so I don't damage the loader, but it will dig into the gravel with much weight on it. The loader lift cylinders have float, but that is too much weight on the blade it it eats the gravel on the drive.

 

[saxambc2]

One thing you didn't mention is what type of surface you are plowing on. Pavement, gravel etc...Most of the surface I plow is paved. The setup I use is with both raise/lower, and curl/roll are on the loader control valve. I have the angle on the thumb switch (third control valve). The reason for this is if I want to take the cutting edge down to the concrete/asphalt and take the snow all the way off the surface (not using the plow feet) then I can do that immediately. I think it's all in what you plan on using your setup for.