dirt ditch
Platinum Member
Glad to see your success with that.. I had the same idea and yesterday while in Wichita I bought a NAPA deep cycle boat battery to use with my 25gal sprayer.
Three point 12v sprayer
- Thread starter CreekRRTRN
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Jkott
Silver Member
I bought the same sprayer this spring.
4.5a is not a lot of power. About 54 watts. Less than the headlights, so unless you are spraying at night with the lights on, your tractor will likely handle it just fine. Almost every CUT I looked at had a 30-50 amp alternator, and all the cooling, fuel pumps, etc are mechanically driven. The tractor is not drawing a lot of power on a regular basis besides a few relays, the cruise control, and brake lights so it should be able to keep up with 5 amps just fine.
Make sure the "always on +12v" is wired on the 7 way. It's not necessarily required and on my lot of trucks, you have to manually add a fuse if you want to use it. Not sure if they automatically wire it on a tractor 7 way. Make sure the fuse and wire is rated to at least 7.5a so you don't melt the wires if you are running it for hours.
FYI, most deep cycle batteries are between 60 and a 100 amps depending on group size. The RC number is the number of minutes the battery can sustain about a 20 amp*hr load and keep the voltage above 10.5 amps. Your pump probably isn't rated to provide the right psi and flow at only 10.5 volts and there aren't any ratings for run time at 5 amps and over 12 volts. Bilge pumps I looked at to move water into tanks had noticeably different head and flow ratings for being power from a running engine vs just battery voltage.
My advise is to make sure you keep the switch inline handy because the only way to start and stop the sprayer is by cutting power or getting off and turning the valves.
I ran mine the first time off the rear work light prewire and it did fine. But because I wanted to run another pump that that needed more than the work light wiring can safely provide, I just ran a new line to the battery with a fuse right after the battery connection. I would suggest using the tractor power instead of a free standing battery unless it is your only option. The sprayer pump will be much happier using the alternators 13-14v instead of the 12.2 to 12.6v of a free standing battery. At the higher voltage, the current draw will be at a lower amp rate and will be able to maintain pressure and volume better and will run cooler.
4.5a is not a lot of power. About 54 watts. Less than the headlights, so unless you are spraying at night with the lights on, your tractor will likely handle it just fine. Almost every CUT I looked at had a 30-50 amp alternator, and all the cooling, fuel pumps, etc are mechanically driven. The tractor is not drawing a lot of power on a regular basis besides a few relays, the cruise control, and brake lights so it should be able to keep up with 5 amps just fine.
Make sure the "always on +12v" is wired on the 7 way. It's not necessarily required and on my lot of trucks, you have to manually add a fuse if you want to use it. Not sure if they automatically wire it on a tractor 7 way. Make sure the fuse and wire is rated to at least 7.5a so you don't melt the wires if you are running it for hours.
FYI, most deep cycle batteries are between 60 and a 100 amps depending on group size. The RC number is the number of minutes the battery can sustain about a 20 amp*hr load and keep the voltage above 10.5 amps. Your pump probably isn't rated to provide the right psi and flow at only 10.5 volts and there aren't any ratings for run time at 5 amps and over 12 volts. Bilge pumps I looked at to move water into tanks had noticeably different head and flow ratings for being power from a running engine vs just battery voltage.
My advise is to make sure you keep the switch inline handy because the only way to start and stop the sprayer is by cutting power or getting off and turning the valves.
I ran mine the first time off the rear work light prewire and it did fine. But because I wanted to run another pump that that needed more than the work light wiring can safely provide, I just ran a new line to the battery with a fuse right after the battery connection. I would suggest using the tractor power instead of a free standing battery unless it is your only option. The sprayer pump will be much happier using the alternators 13-14v instead of the 12.2 to 12.6v of a free standing battery. At the higher voltage, the current draw will be at a lower amp rate and will be able to maintain pressure and volume better and will run cooler.
Reyer Farms
Platinum Member
I have mine wired to the tractor battery with switch in cab. I cut wires behind switch and have connection between tractor ( just like what's on the 15/25 gallon atv sprayers at the switch)and sprayer pump. Switch and leads stay with tractor when I disconnect. I thought about using the plug because I could spray with different tractors, but then it would open up the can I borrow your sprayer can of worms.
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smokinmad
Silver Member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2017
- Messages
- 125
- Location
- fairmount, il.
- Tractor
- ford 1210, yanmar 276D, I.H. Cub Lowboy, Ford 2-N
I wired a 110 volt covered light switch, to my battery, then ran it to my back fender and hooked to a 110 volt outlet. I put a 110 plug in on my 12v wires and just plug into the Outlet Box. I can turn sprayer on and off in my tractor seat. I built a sprayer boom to spray the whole yard. With a garden gated wye, I can turn the boom off and use the Hand Wand or use Both at same time.
Smokin'
Smokin'
