Three Point Hitch Log Splitter not working - ideas?

UncleDaddy · Jan 15, 2017

Hi, I've tried searching the forum and can't find an answer to this question. I would love any feedback you all have on this.

I bought a Speeco "county line" 3pt hitch style log splitter from tractor supply to run on my 2001 New Holland TN75D. It uses the remote hydraulics, not PTO power. I assembled the unit and hooked up two hydraulic hoses to the unit's switch housing area. I hooked these hoses to the tractor remotes. I read the manual but it is very basic and doesn't seem to cover what I am experiencing. When I hooked up the unit I engaged the hydraulic lever in the cab to the right direction which will apply pressure to the outgoing line. The log splitter moved in a jerky fashion, with the switch handle jumping back and forth. I climbed down and engaged the switch handle and then tried this again. The cylinder stroked out halfway and then stopped. The switch handle on the splitter was still shaking back and forth, as though it couldn't decide if it could stay shut or open.

My dad is a pretty competent mechanical guy. He came over and we worked on it for a bit. Still the same thing occurred, even with him holding the switch lever in various positions while I applied hydraulic pressure. The switch is not working the way we think it should or we are failing to do something correctly. The cylinder will not move--neither retract or finish the stroke. It is halfway extended. I thought it might be air in the lines. I removed the lines and bled them to see fluid, and they appear pressurized and full. I tried the lines in a different configuration. I tried different combinations of moving the hydraulic control lever in the cab of the tractor. I cannot seem to get it to work. Any thoughts? I am concerned because as I read online people talk about severely damaging the tractor's hydraulic pump if blockage of flow occurs. Before I go any further I'd like some feedback from someone who knows more than me about these remote hydraulic systems and how to use them with log splitters. Also, there is a shaft that was included in the bag that came with the splitter. As to this, the manual reads: "A closed spool kit is included in the hardware kit for converting open center valves to closed center." There are no instructions as to what this means and I can't find anything online. Is this something to try?

Thanks a lot.

KYErik · Jan 15, 2017

Your system is probably closed center- you will probably need to add the kit to the valve.

LD1 · Jan 15, 2017

The tractor should be an open center system. The logsplitter valve needs to also be an open center valve. Which should be the default way the valve comes. And installing an optional CC plug for a closed center system.

Step one is we need to know it's hooked up correctly.

This isn't meant to offend you, but it's clear you don't know hydraulics. So when you say you hooked the hoses to the "switch" I assume you meant the valve.

We need pictures. Need to assure it is hooked correctly

KYErik · Jan 15, 2017

Yes- please do send a pic of how all the hoses are connected to the valve. I was my understanding that most tractors made since the 1970's used closed center systems- but I could be wrong. My 1963 Ford 4000 has an open system while my dad's 1980's JD 2840 has a closed center system.

How many pairs of remotes do you have on the back of your tractor? If you have more than one pair, is it possible that you connected each of the logsplitter valve lines to non- paired remotes on the tractor?

LD1 · Jan 15, 2017

Most tractors are indeed open center.

JD was the big one that always used CC systems, but even they have several models that are open center.

Just think about all the threads on here talking about power beyond. If most tractors were indeed CC, we wouldn't be walking through remote and 3rd function installs and explaining power beyond all the time. It would simply be a tee in the pressure line.

UncleDaddy · Jan 15, 2017

Thanks for the replies. I can take a picture tomorrow if I don't get it solved. I dug around online and did more reading and it looks to me like this extra closed center conversion kit may be the answer. I read this: Hydraulics 11 for Beginners | Agriculture | Tractor Supply Co. --- which is aptly titled "hydraulics for beginners." Halfway through it goes into the open vs closed center system. I still have no idea what it means, but it's making me think I need to change this part out in the valve (not switch...hehe).

And yes I hooked the two lines to the same remote pair and hooked them according to what I thought was the output and return line on that remote pair. No, I don't know anything about hydraulics and I do not take offense to that. I usually have my mechanic do this stuff but he is working on other things for me and I thought I'd do this easy little project myself but here I am...

I'll see if I can throw this part at it tomorrow and maybe it will solve the issue. The url I included above said that "newer" equipment has the closed center system more commonly than the open center. Maybe that's why they include that kit stock with the package... Maybe an '01 tractor is considered newer... Who knows... Thanks for all the responses. I appreciate your time and input.

KYErik · Jan 15, 2017

LD1- thanks for that info. I was assuming wrong.

Hydraulic Pump Selection Guide

Tractor Seabee · Jan 16, 2017

I could be wrong, but I think you cannot mix open and closed center valves in the same system. Does your Speeco manual have a hydraulic diagram and/or discuss whether it is closed or open? I would be surprised if the TS help knows this answer but doesn't hurt to ask. Better yet call the factory tech help desk. You may need your tractor hydraulic diagram also. These things are hard to diagnose via a forum especially when the OP isn't familial with the lingo of the trade. Pictures can help a lot if they portray both systems well.

Ron

LD1 · Jan 16, 2017

UncleDaddy said:
Thanks for the replies. I can take a picture tomorrow if I don't get it solved. I dug around online and did more reading and it looks to me like this extra closed center conversion kit may be the answer. I read this: Hydraulics 11 for Beginners | Agriculture | Tractor Supply Co. --- which is aptly titled "hydraulics for beginners." Halfway through it goes into the open vs closed center system. I still have no idea what it means, but it's making me think I need to change this part out in the valve (not switch...hehe).

And yes I hooked the two lines to the same remote pair and hooked them according to what I thought was the output and return line on that remote pair. No, I don't know anything about hydraulics and I do not take offense to that. I usually have my mechanic do this stuff but he is working on other things for me and I thought I'd do this easy little project myself but here I am...

I'll see if I can throw this part at it tomorrow and maybe it will solve the issue. The url I included above said that "newer" equipment has the closed center system more commonly than the open center. Maybe that's why they include that kit stock with the package... Maybe an '01 tractor is considered newer... Who knows... Thanks for all the responses. I appreciate your time and input.

You may have more going on than a simple open vs closed center incompatibility between tractor and valve. Thus why I want to see how you have it hooked.

The only difference between open and CC in the valve....Is when the logsplitter valve is in neutral. When the handle is pulled to operate the splitter....Functionally they are the same.

So even if the valve is CC and tractor an open center position.....The logsplitter should still work. And vice versa.

The issue that causes you to NEED to make sure they are both the same is only when the valve is in neutral. Because a CC tractor on an open center valve will continue to pump fluid through the valve and never generate any pressure if you were to want to use another hydraulic function. (Like the 3ph keeping the splitter suspended). And reverse the scenario, and have a CC valve on an open center system, and you dead head the pump and cook your fluid and burn stuff up. But that's not something that happens immediately. It takes awhile to heat up all that fluid and cause any real damage.

So while you need to be sure the valve matches the tractor system....It won't cause the issues you describe. But air certainly will.

It's a new splitter with no oil. Pull the lever and it tries to pump oil in the cylinder that is full of air. It compresses the air up to the point that the cylinder moves. But that compressed air isn't a nice and smooth motion, it will go all at once and quickly until the friction of the piston seals overcome the air pressure and it stops again. Keep holding the lever and the cycle repeats....Compress the remaining air....Cylinder jumps out a bit more....Then stops again.

Once you manage to get the cylinder fully extended....There will still be compressed air in there. But now we need to retract. And that side of the cylinder is also full of air. Do it will act just the same.

It will take several full cycles to get all the air out. I suspect this is the only issue, but wanted to see pictures of how you have the lines hooked just to be sure

enfield · Dec 15, 2021

Resurrecting this thread because we've sold the Kubota that was always used to run our Speeco 3ph splitter. Now our only tractor is a John Deere 2240 - with closed center hydraulics. If I understood the previous post correctly, there is no harm in running an OC splitter valve so long as no other hydraulic function on the tractor is needed while the supply to the splitter valve is in use. I also assume that there will be no problems at all when the control valve on the tractor is in the "neutral" position.
Looking for some experienced guidance here. I have a spool for CC, but no one at Speeco seems to be able to tell me how to remove the valve detent assembly from the current OC spool. tia,
Enfield