throw out bearing seized???
- Thread starter grsr3
- Start date
- Views: 13811
OK---here's the final result. Received my grease gun from Chip (which I didn't need) with the special "tip" on it. Unscrewed the tip on put it on my gun which was already loaded with a grease cartridge. The tip worked beautifully, absolutely perfect. I am happy I waited for it before I brought the thing to be split.
The tip fit perfectly into the little hole on the outside cover of the bearing. I wasn't sure if it was really getting in there until I saw grease starting to come out of the edges of the bearing. I hand turned the bearing several times and greased again. Cleaned up excess grease as best I could. Started tractor and slowly by hand put pressure on the pedal. Beautiful---it spun free. The tractor shifted better than it ever did before---which tells me the **** thing was never adjusted right to begin with. No grinding like I would usually get. My PTO also shifts much better and pedal is firmer and more responsive.
NOW------the bearing DOES make a little noise and the pedal DOES vibrate some. I KNOW this is a sick bearing. But I am going to use it and keep my eye on it until it starts to really complain. That bearing ONLY gets used when you push the clutch pedal down (assuming the clutch is adjusted right). Time will tell. I will order a new bearing and fingers and have them ready for that day (hope I'm still here). George
The tip fit perfectly into the little hole on the outside cover of the bearing. I wasn't sure if it was really getting in there until I saw grease starting to come out of the edges of the bearing. I hand turned the bearing several times and greased again. Cleaned up excess grease as best I could. Started tractor and slowly by hand put pressure on the pedal. Beautiful---it spun free. The tractor shifted better than it ever did before---which tells me the **** thing was never adjusted right to begin with. No grinding like I would usually get. My PTO also shifts much better and pedal is firmer and more responsive.
NOW------the bearing DOES make a little noise and the pedal DOES vibrate some. I KNOW this is a sick bearing. But I am going to use it and keep my eye on it until it starts to really complain. That bearing ONLY gets used when you push the clutch pedal down (assuming the clutch is adjusted right). Time will tell. I will order a new bearing and fingers and have them ready for that day (hope I'm still here). George
Not sure if this is right--but I'm using an old thread to follow up to the present situation---for all those who want some background info. Anyway---It's TRACTOR SPLITING TIME---I'm sooooo happy. To quickly update--it's been almost exactly one year since the throw out bearing issue surfaced. The clutch pedal went to floor the other day just after i pulled the machine outof my garage. I checked the bearing thru the inspection opening and it was shattered in place---the game is up. I ordered a new bearing and disk about a month age from Chip and has been waiting patiently on a shelf in my garage. I'm going to try this myself and so far it's been pretty easy. First I pressure washed the whole thing down so I could see what I was doing. Got the Koyker loader off and the belly bracket assembly and the bottom plastic engine cover all in about two hours. Now I can see and get at all the bell housing bolts. The only attachments under the machine (at the point of separation) is the clutch linkage, an easy disconnect wiring harness and other minor linkage stuff and the front wheel drive assembly----will that slide apart when the halves are split or do you need to unbolt on end or the other???? All that looks pretty straight ahead. It's on the top where it gets complicated. Do I need to remove the entire dash assembly and all the stuff in there or will that go forward with the engine when the halves are split?????? there are some hydraulic lines---I think for the steering and a glass site bowl under the tank----filter probably. Don't want to do any unecessary work. Not going to remove those bell housing bolts til I'm sure things are separated properly. Also would like ideas on blocking up the front and rear end. Need something that will roll back and forth easily so there's not too much struggling with putting those shafts back. At this point I'm still in my driveway on the stones. I guess I should push it in the garage on the concrete floor for the splitting part. Any ideas on this operation will be welcomed. I am reviewing "Lakespirits" posts and will no doubt need to contact him soon---or he may see this.
If I knew the exact procedure I could probably have had this done by the time it took me to write this note---hahaha.
George
If I knew the exact procedure I could probably have had this done by the time it took me to write this note---hahaha.
George
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
The front drive shaft is dropped by means of a sliding collar just forward of the transfer case. There's no need to take off the "dash assembly" or fuel tank. I disconnected the steering lines at the pump, those big hex heads at the other end are too hard to get at. You might have to move some wiring for clearance when pulling the two tractor halves apart. Watch carefully as not to bend the lines when pushing them back together.
The front axle is on a pivot pin, so you'll want a pair of wedges right and left to keep the engine from tipping in one direction or the other after separation. Definitely do it on a cement floor, so you can move the rear half back and forth on a floor jack.
//greg//
The front axle is on a pivot pin, so you'll want a pair of wedges right and left to keep the engine from tipping in one direction or the other after separation. Definitely do it on a cement floor, so you can move the rear half back and forth on a floor jack.
//greg//
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Not all Chinese tractors use the older style (greasable) throw out bearings Rick. Both my tractors do, but your Jinma may have the newer style sealed bearing.
But if not, it's a tiny hole on the side of the bearing housing. You must have a strong light and a good set of eyes to find it. Rotate the TOB on its race a full 360 degrees and look for a pinhole on the side. Look carefully, as it may be obscured by clutch dust. If you find one, you use a needle tip grease gun. If you don't, it's almost certainly a sealed bearing.
//greg//
