Tie Down Points on Trailer...Few Questions

[NFA Fun]

I have an 18ft flat bed trailer rated at 12k. Will be using it to tow the new TLB I just ordered. Question is, the trailer has steak pockets welded all around the outer frame. Are these OK to tie onto for chaining down the tractor? The pockets are 1/4 inch thick channel about 5" tall with 8 - 10 inches of continuous weld. Went out and purchased good American Made 3/8th chain and ratchet binders instead of the cheap made in China junk at the discount stores, so I want to make sure my machine is not going anywhere!

 

[Blk88GT]

Yes, it should be fine. If you find the pockets aren't in the idea spot, you can always went on a set of D rings. I have both on my trailer.

 

[Highbeam]

I use the stake pockets for a 4500# machine but mine are not built as stoutly as you describe, more like 1/8" steel bent into a U. If the TLB is much more than 5000# I would prefer the real deal of adding honest to goodness D-rings welded to the frame in the proper location. You will have to trust the integrity of the welds. In all cases, use 4 seperate tie down chains with the four binders as is typical and this way if one of the tie downs rips out then you will have the other three to hold the TLB.

 

[mnbowhunter1960]

That's what I use good USA grade chain and I cris cross the chains to the opposite sides of the trailer and come up thru the pockets just in case one would loosen up it would still hold if stressed. I was hauling close to 5000lb tractor loader and brush cutter,and it works great. MH

 

[Highbeam]

Agreed, and it might be hard to see on the picture but the idea is to drop the hook through the stake pocket and then swing it up and hook on the outside of the pocket so that slack in the chain will not cause it to become unhooked. I get plenty of people looking at me funny about this method until their own light bulb comes on.

 

[NFA Fun]

I always drop the chain down through and back up top...learned that lesson many years ago.

I like the idea of using 4 separate binders instead of 2. Have seen the guys with the "big" machines do that, so it seems to make good sense for the smaller ones as well.

Thanks for the replies!

 

[InlineDieselFan]

Stake pockets have been working fine for me, until we moved down to live in the shop I trailed it back and forth many times.

steve

 

[SpringHollow]

A machinist I know who also trailers a lot says not to drop the hook through the pocket and then hook onto the top of the stake pocket (he saw me doing it). He says doing this puts one of the links partially out at the top of the pocket (which it did)and it binds against the top of the pocket. He says this lateral stress significantly weakens the metal making it easier to break the link. If my brother had not just taken my trailer I would take a picture to show you what I mean.

He said to just hook onto the bottom of the pocket. Doing that put the pivot point of the chain loop right at the top of the pocket so tightening the chain put no sideways stress on the link. You always want your chains to be pulling straight. I said what if the chain loosened and the hook came loose. He said if you chained it properly and checked your load after going down the road a little, that would not happen. If it did, you still had your other chains.

I do not know if he was right or not. I still find it scary to not do it the way I always have since it is easy to make sure the hook is binding properly.

Ken

 

[SnowRidge]

He said to just hook onto the bottom of the pocket. Doing that put the pivot point of the chain loop right at the top of the pocket so tightening the chain put no sideways stress on the link.

That would be entirely dependent on the height of the stake pocket and the size of the chain.

 

[justanotherjoe]

A loose chain will happen more often than a broken chain link. I agree about the stress on the wrapped link, but the most risk is the sentence above. If one chain gives out for whatever reason, the opposing one will become loose. Do you want it to unhook immediately?