TIG Torch Question

[Mark @ Everlast]

Well...crud.

Drilled collet body worked okay, but it's pretty apparent that TIGing aluminum won't be added to my skill set any time soon, if ever.

I tried every combination of tungsten (both size and composition), stick out, tip shape, polarity, amperage, and arc length I could think of without success.

I cleaned the aluminum by sanding off the oxidation with new-unused 3M roloc discs, and then wiped it down with acetone.

Problem is primarily two things:

1. I can't see the puddle. By the time I DO see the puddle, it's too late.

2. I shake like a dog passing peach pits and wind up sticking the tungsten into the work. Also makes it difficult to move the torch smoothly.

I never got far enough to try dabbing the rod (started getting mad and quit before doing something stupid) but trying to move the torch with one motion and dab the rod with the other hand using a completely different motion is going to be a challenge.

I haven't given up, but @ 68, I know myself pretty well and I seriously doubt I have either the patience or the persistence to master this one.

That's why so many profesional welders drink on the job. lol:laughing: It settles their nerves. They can't weld without a can or two in them. Their welds look like chicken litter in the mornings and after lunch a a couple of beers, they settle right in and look like a machine did it.

As a note of advice, try keeping the wire in the puddle(lay wire) and forget the dabbing until you can steady yourself some more (try propping or bracing yourself as well). There are also some TIG "prosthetic" devices that can steady you as well such as the CK "steady grip" if you are committed to this.

 

[yomax4]

Another option could be to just practice making a puddle and moving it around. Once you get that, You can start adding filler. Best to start on steel or better yet stainless. You will need a mag lens, light or better torch angle too. The 1st thing you need is to be able to see the puddle. Can't weld anything if not. Also curious of your tungsten stick out and if you are using a gas lens or just regular cups.

 

[kenmac]

Another option could be to just practice making a puddle and moving it around. Once you get that, You can start adding filler. Best to start on steel or better yet stainless. You will need a mag lens, light or better torch angle too. The 1st thing you need is to be able to see the puddle. Can't weld anything if not. Also curious of your tungsten stick out and if you are using a gas lens or just regular cups.

Reason I can't figure why he's having problems with seeing the puddle. He says he's been tiging steel and stainless for a while.
Perhaps because the aluminum puddle looks somewhat different than the ss or steel puddles

I don't have a mag lens, but I do wear my reading glassed to help me see it better.
One of the pyrex lens may help as well

 

[PHPaul]

Thanks for the tips!

My experience TIGing mild and stainless has mostly been with good, tight joints and just flowing them together, not adding much filler. It's MUCH easier to see the puddle with steel.

I am using ordinary ceramic cups, perhaps a pyrex gas lens would help. I'll have to price them out.

Finding a way to steady my hand will help a lot. When working with steel and no filler, I use my off hand to steady my torch hand. I'll have to rig up a way to work while seated and be able to steady my forearm on my torch hand.

I'm looking through the near section of my bifocals and can focus on the arc pretty well, just don't see the puddle forming.

I'll catch a warmer day where I can work without wearing a freakin' parka and try it again.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

The aluminum doesn't change color. It starts to "sweat" when it is ready. It's fast and quick, and "turbo" speed compared to steel or stainless.

 

[sandman2234]

I think I mentioned the color change not being easy to see. When I learned, my eyes were a lot better, lol. Now that they aren't quite as good, seeing the puddle forming takes a little bit of close watching.
You can (and will!!) do this!
Good luck, and keep after it!
David from jax

 

[PHPaul]

It's been single-digits cold for 2 weeks now, and not much relief in sight.

Once it gets back above freezing, I'll get back to work on this skill.

 

[k0ua]

It's been single-digits cold for 2 weeks now, and not much relief in sight.

Once it gets back above freezing, I'll get back to work on this skill.

This puzzles me. TIG is done indoors in a heated shop.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

This puzzles me. TIG is done indoors in a heated shop.

Not if you have to run a root pass on a pipe. But yes, typically TIG is indoors, but not always in a heated environment.

 

[sd455dan]

It's been single-digits cold for 2 weeks now, and not much relief in sight.

Once it gets back above freezing, I'll get back to work on this skill.

same here it was 9* this morning ,

Maybe it's these old sine wave machines (have a 1962 idealarc Tig 300 300)

i would suggest turning the HF up while (set to continuous)... higher setting helps to break through the oxide,

Machine on A/C and going in (hot) to start the puddle - especially if the aluminum is thick,

3 seconds or less to get a shiny puddle- then back down on the pedal

If that means max power and bury the pedal so be it. If you melt through on a couple test pieces no big deal - just don't let it land on your foot.

the biggest mistake I made with my dinosaur Tig at 1st was using to low of amps to start out with.

To low of amps puts more overall heat in the piece and not enough in a confined area where you are actually trying to (melt) weld.


ps. What kind of hood are you using,
i couldn't see the puddle very well (except for stick) with my old HF auto hood,
When I got my newer inexpensive 4 sensor hood with multiple adjustments it was like night and day for tig and mig.
Hope this helps