Tightening bolts and greasing

Dargo · Jul 2, 2005

Well, I had a strong hunch that it was the dealer's fault. There are a few of their dealers on here, and I'm certain that they would figure the tread was targeting them, which it isn't. However, if they are using the lot boy to assemble their tractors, and that is why parts are coming loose and falling off, then I really think the manufacturer should come down on them with a really big stick. You see, now you've really gotten me in trouble. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Watch the tempers fly now! /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Bob_Skurka · Jul 2, 2005

RedDog, in the post you pulled selected wording of mine from, I referred to 3 different minor brands.

One minor brand is sold by a very solid Big 3 dealer. I would buy a minor brand from this dealer IF I liked the tractor, but after looking them over a couple times, I do not like the tractor, despite its low price 

One minor brand is sold by a garden center that specializes in plants, but recently branched out into selling one minor brand of tractors. They are, by any definition a plant center, and they taught the cashier to say "and do you want a tractor with that? . . . I can supersize it for only a few $ more!" The tractor is not too bad, I'd consider them if they were at a different dealer. Not sure I would buy one, but I would consider one. 

One minor brand is sold by a lawn mower repair shop that branched into CUTs and their tractor selection includes one minor brand of tractors. I like some of the machines from this brand, but would not buy from this dealer. I recommended one to a guy on the phone yesterday, but he lives in Maine. 

Now anyone can buy from who they want to buy from. I choose to buy from a quality dealer. My very strong suspicion is that many of the tractor problems I see related to some brands are DEALER issues. Some are probably issues with tolerance and engineering and design.

There was recently a thread asking WHY TO BUY A LAWN TRACTOR FROM A DEALER INSTEAD OF A BIG BOX STORE. I think it was summed up very well by a few posts that stressed that trained technicians put the tractors together, rather than a minimum wage hourly kid. That same theory applies, in spades, to CUTs. So no thank you, I do not want to buy my CUT from a dealer that is not well established, that does not do tractors FIRST instead of as a sideline, and does not employ factory certified mechanics, etc etc etc. Bear in mind I am not criticizing the tractor, but I won't buy ANY brand from a dealer that I cannot trust to support me in the long run. There is a thread active right now, a guy bought a tractor and the dealer told him he is MAY drop the brand so now the guy is scratching his head looking for help. I'm sure he will find another dealer to service him, but at what distance and inconvenience?

RedDog · Jul 2, 2005

Well, I had a strong hunch that it was the dealer's fault. 

For the most part, I agree with that. I orginally ordered my tractor with Ag tires, and when it came (already assembled by Kioti, not my dealer), the front tires would rub the loader frame. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I was not happy as I had my vacation planned around this. If I remember correctly the tires were set out, but still would rub when turning. I ended up switching to R4's (which at the time cost more, but they gave them to me) /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. I couldn't be happier. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

So in my opinion that was Kioti's fault not my dealer, and it was all worked out while I was on vacation. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Plus Kioti gave me the sunshade for my troubles. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 However, if they are using the lot boy to assemble their tractors, and that is why parts are coming loose and falling off, then I really think the manufacturer should come down on them with a really big stick 

Your right!!

Watch the tempers fly now! 

I like that. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

And by the way, I ride a Harley too! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

RedDog

RedDog · Jul 2, 2005

RedDog, in the post you pulled selected wording of mine from, I referred to 3 different minor brands. 

That is true.

Bob, it is really not that difficult. I'm only asking you to name the minor brands that you are referring to.

Would you like for me to guess what brands they are? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

RedDog

Dargo · Jul 2, 2005

( And by the way, I ride a Harley too! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

RedDog )

I'm a reformed Harley rider. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif My dad now has mine (his). The right footpeg fell off sometime while riding. I came up to a stop light, and put my feet down like normal. The light turned green and I proceeded to turn right (was a car in front of me). When going to put my feet back on the pegs I then discovered the right peg was gone. Being that the motorcycle was moving, when my foot hit the ground (instead of the footpeg), it moved backwards, being run over by the rear tire. That makes it rather difficult to stay on the bike. Off came rider, who managed to pull the bike down to the right side as well.

Insurance paid for the damage to the bike, but questioned me as to how the gas tank was completely crushed on the left side with most of the damage being on the right side where it went over. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif I'll let you figure out how that happened. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Per the wife, with five kids, I'm now bike-less. She even made me hide all of my old motocross trophies from them. I have a storage closet full of 'em. However, after looking at some a few months ago, I noticed the year on some of them. Uh, I'll leave them in the closet. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

sneaky_pete · Jul 2, 2005

( I learned of Loctite years ago when I owned a Harley. Every time I rode it I had to take inventory when I got home of what fell off. )

45-degree v-twins are inherently unbalanced. They can be balanced for a fairly narrow rpm range, but it takes some work and skill to do it. All harleys vibrate, but the newer ones being either rubber-mounted or counter balanced have drastically reduced the effects of vibration. But, now Loctite is mentioned extensively in the service manuals too!

Personally, I still prefer the old ones, but I don't mind using loctite and checking fasteners for tightness.

OrangeGuy · Jul 3, 2005

Generally the parts of tractors assembled by the OEMs are non-painted mating pieces assembled under tight controls. The parts assembled by dealers are generally two painted pieces, i.e. wheel hubs and wheels, FELs to tractor housings, etc. Anytime you assemble two painted surfaces together, you have a poor bond between the two metal surfaces. Checking the tightness of these bolts is essential to good tractor maintenance.

Automobiles generally do not have major accessories like a FEL added to them by a dealer. The wheels are also assembled by the OEM using two non-painted surfaces. Consequently, customers are not required to "check the tightness of bolts". However, if you remove a wheel and replace it, the manual does in most cases ask you to check the wheel bolts for tightness after driving for a short time.

All I'm trying to say is do not put too much onus on the dealer for loose bolts. For the most part you are being asked to check bolts that require re-checking.

As far as the "big three" having less issues with loose bolts, I will agree with that conclusion.

OrangeGuy

DK35vince · Jul 3, 2005

( As far as the "big three" having less issues with loose bolts, I will agree with that conclusion.)

Can't say that I agree with that conclusion
I have 580 hours on my Kioti DK 35 and Have never ran across a loose bolt yet.
The only bolts that I ever had come loose were where my backhoe and subframe come together. But I put that together myself, so no one else can be blamed for that but me !!!

AntrimMan · Jul 6, 2005

Orangeguy,
I think you are dead on about the painted surfaces being a major contributor to bolt loosening.
If one was to cut grass or some similar light duty excersize with their CUT then the issue would rarely occur. But if used to full potential the dish to rim bolts on an L3130 will definitely loosen due to some bolt stretch and mashing of the painted mating surfaces. It's the nature of the design and any make of tractor using the same approach to deliver the axle torque to the tires will have the same requirement to check the bolts intermittently. The same would go for any other painted and bolted surfaces doing a hard days work.

Dargo,
every 10 hours or at the end of a long day, say 12 or 13 hours, I clean all the zerks and give 3 pumps to each one on the loader and bh. A grease cartridge lasts almost 3 greaseings and I find myself ocassionally telling myself that grease is cheap insurance despite the mess and time consumed. The pivots have without doubt loosened up a bit in spite of the lube. The grease used initially was the moly ep type and is now the light blue Kubota ep urea type. When the machine makes it's way home I will check the pin slop in more detail and see if it is lube or load vs bearing area related. Greaseing should be like voting, do it early and often.

Egon,
I had a laugh about the 'must have been a good one" bike comment. I remember all the parallel metal on concrete scratch marks in front of the favourite watering holes. It was from kickstands sliding on the cement when jumping on the kickstarter. Sort of like a signature. We used to call them Harley tracks. Plently of oil there too from the automatic chain oilers that doubled as primary covers and trans output shaft seals. Admittedly they are good looing and distinctively sounding. I think they are better quality now that the price has hit the stratosphere. At least now there are electric starters so girls can own one too /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

All the best,
Martin

Syncro · Jul 6, 2005

"....At least now there are electric starters...." 

Yup. and 12 volts too. Remember them two dimly lit red "gen" and "oil" lights just above the ignition switch? They barely glowed and would flicker when the kick starter cycled. Oh yeah, that twist grip on the left handle bar (spark) better be rolled all the ways back before you jump on that kick starter too or you get launched! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Better have everything just right if its gonna start! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Don't know what this has to do with the original post, but it seemed right /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif