Tiller Tiller Offset

[NCDaveD]

My tiller came new offset to the right by 4". With this offset, the tiller will only cover one wheel track. My plan is to center up the mounting so the tiller covers both wheel tracks (48"). Since I'm new at this, and I don't know what I don't know, is there any DISADVANTAGE to making this change? I haven't cut my PTO shaft yet, so I'm OK there.

Thanks for helping a new guy out :thumbsup:

NCDaveD

 

[art]

There are several systems for offsetting the hitch on a tiller. To move it back to the center is not going to hurt it at all and if the gearbox is offset because the tiller you bought only moved the hitch and not the gearbox it is better for the driveshaft if it is straight from the tractor to the tiller.

 

[bigtiller]

Mine was offset also when delivered new to me. It is 4 inches wider than my tires are so I centered it before I used it. I can think of no disadvantage to doing so.

What brand/model did you buy?

 

[NCDaveD]

My unit is a Caroni FL1200 (48"). It has mounting holes for centering the tiller (w/r/t the tractor), as well as sliding hitches for the bottom 3 point pins. The PTO currently is not centered w/r/t the tiller, and if I center the tiller to the tractor, the PTO will still not be centered to the tractor, but the offset will be well within the PTO's angular requirements.

I spent two years trying to find a good, used 48" unit, and finally gave up after seeing what was being offered as used (and the prices being asked). I did miss out on one good Craigslist find, but it was early in my search, and I didn't realize at the time what a deal it was....live and learn.

NCDaveD

 

[bigtiller]

Okay, now I understand the reason for your question. Try to keep the pto shaft as straight as you can and the universal joints will last longer.

 

[powerpace]

My tiller came new offset to the right by 4". With this offset, the tiller will only cover one wheel track. My plan is to center up the mounting so the tiller covers both wheel tracks (48"). Since I'm new at this, and I don't know what I don't know, is there any DISADVANTAGE to making this change? I haven't cut my PTO shaft yet, so I'm OK there.

Thanks for helping a new guy out :thumbsup:

NCDaveD

You shouldn't have to cut your shaft. There should be enough adjustment inside the shaft. If you are only moving the tiller 4" that would probably be only about a half inch shorter on the shaft.
What if you want to offset the tiller in the future?
What are you tilling? Garden, grapes, fruit trees, landscaping. The offset is used in places where you don't want the tractor close to your tree, bush house etc.... If it is a garden directly behind the tractor that would be fine. When tilling with the offset you will have one wheel on untilled ground and one on tilled ground to get a overlap. That can make a smoother ride depending on the ground you are working. How wide are your wheels? If it is covering one wheel with a 4" offset you probably won't be able to cover both tracks.

As far as the universal joints lasting longer and less strain on the gearbox when the shaft is inline is not a big deal in my opinion. As long as the fittings and gearbox is lubed you shouldn't have a problem. I have wore out two tillers while doing commercial and residential landscaping. Never had a problem with the drive train. My tiller was always offset to cover the wheel. This was to be able to get close to buildings and paved areas.

 

[NCDaveD]

This is for a regular personal garden that has been previously tilled. Got tired of the 3-4 hours it takes to do it w/a small walk-behind tiller. My rear tires are 48" from outside to outside. The PTO shaft is still new and has not been cut as yet.

Thanks for all the help!
NCDavecD

 

[roush9799]

I think my 6 foot king kutter has a slight built in offset. It's not moveable, but it sticks out farther one side than the other, but it takes out my tracks yet.

 

[Don87]

There is no disadvantage to centering the tiller. You can always offset it again later on if you desire, it only takes a few tools and a little time.

I have the Bush Hog RTC48" tiller that is very similar to yours. I have mine centered, but could offset in about 5 minutes if I needed to.


I take it you've already watched the video on measuring and cutting the PTO shaft: Tractor and Skid Steer Attachment Videos

 

[BukitCase]

My simple test to see if a pto shaft needs cutting AT ALL - mount the implement, hook up the pto shaft, then, while watching the two telescoping shield sections, (PTO NOT TURNING) raise and lower the implement looking for the most engagement between halves (shortest overall length) - stop the lift at that position, turn off the tractor, and try to remove one end of the shaft.

If you can do this without "bottoming" the two halves, you're DONE. If not, you will probably need to watch the video or RTFM, etc.

Keep in mind that, if you later decide to put a quick hitch on your tractor (bought more implements, imagine that :=) you will be moving the implements further away from the tractor by about 4-6 inches - so if you cut your shaft UN-NECESSARILY, you may need to buy a NEW shaft in order to add a quick hitch. This will raise the cost of adding the QH by double or triple.

HTH... Steve

Oh, forgot to mention - if any of your implements is "ground engaging" (like a tiller) you may need to elevate the rear tires enough (ramps, whatever) so your tiller will go as low relative to the tractor as it will be when it's in the ground - I've never seen this to be true, but it could happen if the shortest shaft length occurs somewhere OTHER than mid-range of the lift.

Also, don't forget that your TOPLINK needs to be at the adjustment point it will be used at during the above test - it will also affect pto shaft distance between ends.

 

[Don87]

My simple test to see if a pto shaft needs cutting AT ALL - mount the implement, hook up the pto shaft, then, while watching the two telescoping shield sections, (PTO NOT TURNING) raise and lower the implement looking for the most engagement between halves (shortest overall length) - stop the lift at that position, turn off the tractor, and try to remove one end of the shaft.

If you can do this without "bottoming" the two halves, you're DONE. If not, you will probably need to watch the video or RTFM, etc.

.

I personally would not recommend this. All it takes on some of these smaller machines is one slip and it'll snap the case on the PTO/transaxle.

A lot of these newer machines have aluminum housings.

 

[BukitCase]

Don, you lost me - what part of my suggestion would put ANY stress on ANY part of the tractor or implement? Steve

Oh, maybe this is it - are you thinking that if the shaft is attached when the implement is NOT at its closest point, that MOVING the lift could maybe put the pto shaft in COMPRESSION and maybe stress the transaxle housing enough to damage it?

If so, good catch - maybe a better way to avoid this would be to NOT attach the shaft at first, but MEASURE between tractor and implement shafts and find the position that gives the SHORTEST distance, THEN try to attach the pto shaft.

Whaddaya think? Steve

 

[Don87]

Don, you lost me - what part of my suggestion would put ANY stress on ANY part of the tractor or implement? Steve

Oh, maybe this is it - are you thinking that if the shaft is attached when the implement is NOT at its closest point, that MOVING the lift could maybe put the pto shaft in COMPRESSION and maybe stress the transaxle housing enough to damage it?

If so, good catch - maybe a better way to avoid this would be to NOT attach the shaft at first, but MEASURE between tractor and implement shafts and find the position that gives the SHORTEST distance, THEN try to attach the pto shaft.

Whaddaya think? Steve

Yes sir, that's what I was referring to. As per the video I posted. It's a much safer angle of attack, especially with people that are new to tractors and implements.